Here is a re-run of my notes of a tasting last November. It covers one of the best producers of Danube basin GV and Riesling as well as some up-market Chardonnay and Blaufränkisch from Burgenland. The ranges of the same producers will be on show again at the end of April but, good though they are, I doubt whether I will go again having tried them so recently.
Nigl, Kremstal, AustriaHeinz Velich was standing in to represent this estate as well as his own and Moric, that of his brother Roland; he did a very good job. There were marked differences between each wine here as terroir and vintage spoke loud. The 2008 GVs are wonderfully crisp and focussed but whole range was excellent (and under screwcap).
Gärtling Grüner Veltliner (“GV”) 2008 (€9) was crisp, juicy and fruity with notes of apple and white pepper; 15.5/20
QPR.
Kremser Freiheit GV 2008 (€12) was more subdued aromatically but showed more amplitude and great tang and minerality; 16/20 QPR.
Senftenberger Piri GV 2008 (€15) was even broader than the previous and equally mineral with a strange tang reminiscent of glue; 15.5/20++.
Alte Reben GV 2008 (€21) showed greater roundness and richness with notes of honey, apple and crisp minerals; 16/20+++.
Kremser Terassen GV 2006 (€19) was in a different style; notably rounder with touches of orange, peach and cream, rich, spicy and long; 16/20+++.
Privat GV 2005 (€24) showed burnished aromas of flowers and grilled meat and a rich, generous palate with backbone; 17/20.
Dornleiten Riesling 2007 (€16) was crisp with rich aromas of white flowers, minerals and hints of petrol; 15.5/20+++.
Dornleiten Riesling 2005 (€15) was less crisp, more juicy with greater complexity and rather more petrol; 16/20.
Senftenberger Piri Riesling 2006 (€23) showed fruity and piquant aromas of apple, pears and spice and fresh, generous and complex fruit with minerals in the background; 16.5/20.
Privat Riesling 2006 (€35) showed peppery white flowers and generous body with a touch of RS well balanced by acidity; 16.5/20.
Reserve Riesling 2002 (€33) showed a step up in complexity with notes of flowers, white fruit, cream and petrol and in balance on round and structured palate; 17/20++.
Zweiglt Rosé 2007 (€11) came over as austere after the Rieslings but there were notes of nice tangy red and black currant and more structure, complexity and minerality than in most pinks; 15.5/20.
Velich, Apleton, AustriaWe plunge into a different world here with opulent wines made in the warmer climate close to Hungarian frontier and to the large Neusiedlersee lake (less than 2 metres deep), which provides reliable botrytis.
TO 2007 (€14), from Chardonnay, Welschriesling and Sauvignon, showed some complexity with elements of cat’s piss, paste, varnish and juicy fruit but it didn’t work for me; 14/20.
Darscho Chardonnay 2007 (€28), matured in large barrels some new, showed rich, burnished tropical fruit, faint touches of butter only and nice minerality; 16/20.
Tiglat Chardonnay 2006 (€47), in spite of being matured in used barrels, showed more wood in the form of cedar notes mingled with white fruit and peach on a rich dark, salty and mineral palate; 16.5/20.
Seewinkel Beerenauslese 2006 (€18/half bottle), from Chardonnay, Sauvignon and Welschriesling, was elegant and complex with fine botrytis beautifully balanced by minerals juicy acidity; 17/20+.
Schosto Beerenauslese 2005 (€16,50/half bottle), from the same blend, was several notches up in unctuousness and depth with apricot, toffee and burgeoning botrytis but with less freshness, elegance and minerality than the previous and further from my affections; 16.5/20.
Here is a link to the estate’s webite
http://www.velich.at/ , which is in German only – surprising since Heinz Velich’s English is totally fluent.
Moric, Burgenland, AustriaThe estate is owned by Roland Velich and seeks to demonstrate that great wines can be made from the Blaufränkisch grape (red).
Blaufränkisch 2007 (€17) showed a nose a round quasi-Burgundian fruit but palate tangy, mat in feel and robust with minerals; a good sturdy quaff; 15.5/20.
Alte Reben Lutzmannsburg Blaufränkisch 2003 (€60!!) showed rich and intense fruit and good structure but its potential for elegance was spoiled for me by the wood, a caramelised finish; after 6 years one may ask whether it will ever integrate; 15/20.
Alte Reben Neckenmarkt Blaufränkisch 2003 (€52!) showed better integrated, though still present, wood and I was able to enjoy its fine intense fruit and dark structure; 16/20++.