TN: '04 Pieropan and '03 Fortia

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TN: '04 Pieropan and '03 Fortia

Postby Jim Jones in Tokyo » Mon Aug 21, 2006 10:53 am

COMPANY DINNER IN HK - A "Mandarin" Restaurant in HK (4/25/2006)

When we went to dinner, I was handed the list. Always a challenge in a Chinese restaurant and this was no exception. There's no perfect match and the list was pretty thin, but these did okay and were quite reasonably priced. No need to break the bank when there's no really good match on the list.
  • 2004 Leonildo Pieropan Soave Classico Superiore - Italy, Veneto, Soave Classico
    Bright and light yellow with lemon and grass hints. Fresh and clean nose of white fruit, a wee bit of lemon, a fresh whiff of sweet grass, and some flowers. Palate entry is as bright and light as the color, with a saline mineral spine, fresh cut herb, bright apple, and a beautifully refreshing finish. Not big, not bold in any blockbuster sense. Just solid, clean, and refreshing. As good a counterpoint as could be found to the lighter dishes.
  • 2003 Château Fortia Châteauneuf-du-Pape - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
    Deep, but clean and transparent red. Much lighter than the other '03 CdP's I've tried so far. Nose has a whiff of tar, followed by ripe red fruits (cherry, berry) and some piney herbs. Palate is richer than many Fortia of late, showing more of the red fruit and a bit of blacker berry, a hint of leather and some dust. Perhaps lacking a bit of concentration on the finish, this is much more in balance and much more drinkable now than most of its '03 cousins. Did the job, but not something to seek out. However, if ever there was a case where a wine was made for a vintage and a vintage for a wine, Fortia and '03 seem to be that case.


The Fortia was a huge hit. One other person and I basically had the Soave to ourselves. Okay by me!

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Re: TN: '04 Pieropan and '03 Fortia

Postby Dale Williams » Mon Aug 21, 2006 10:54 am

welcome back, thanks for notes. I'd be happy with larger share of a Pieropan Soave myself!
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Re: TN: '04 Pieropan and '03 Fortia

Postby Jim Jones in Tokyo » Tue Aug 22, 2006 2:12 am

Always happy with a large share of Pieropan!

My greatest regret from the summer was having to miss the dinner with you and Betsy and Jay Miller and crew. I felt both guilty and deprived at the same time!

Thanks again for the effort and I look forward to seeing you guys again -- whether in NY or Tokyo.

Jim
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Re: TN: '04 Pieropan and '03 Fortia

Postby Mark Lipton » Tue Aug 22, 2006 11:55 am

Jim Jones in Tokyo wrote:2003 Château Fortia Châteauneuf-du-Pape[/url] - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape


Jim, I'm interested in your comments re Fortia. I really liked their '94 and '95 efforts, shortly after the new Baron Le Roy took over the helm. Their terroir would appear to be beyond reproach, so what is the problem there?

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Re: TN: '04 Pieropan and '03 Fortia

Postby Jim Jones in Tokyo » Tue Aug 22, 2006 7:54 pm

Mark:

I should have started with the disclaimer that, while I can enjoy them (and occasionally buy them), I'm not a huge CdP fan.

I like the purity and the precision of the Fortia wines. Sometimes I think they lack a bit in concentration. That was the reason I thought '03 and Fortia were a good match. '03 beefs up the Fortia and Fortia's precision comes through '03.

Still, though, the whole package didn't come through as something I'd work hard to chase down the street. But that's probably because I generally don't chase southern Rhones/Grenache down the street anyway. It was typical, clean, clear, everything it should be...except, somehow, exciting.

Take care,

Jim
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