Bilbainas has fallen into shadow...
Posted: Wed Mar 29, 2006 12:27 am
Bodegas Bilbainas, producer of the famous "Vina Pomal" designated Riojas, has fallen into shadow. The Vina Pomal Reserva and Gran Reserva have long been excellent wines for short money ($10-12 for the Reserva, slightly more for the Gran Reserva). These traditional Rioja were blended around 70% Tempranillo for the better part of the last 100 years. Recently, Bilbainas was purchased by Codorniu who wasted little time in changing the wines. I hadn't seen the regular Vina Pomal Reserva, a wine bottled in the traditional Burgundy bottle, for a number of years. While at a local shop this weekend, I was excited to find the 2001 Pomal Crianza for $10 and picked up a bottle.
Only... the bottle was Bordeaux shaped.
And the label said "Tempranillo"
It wasn't until I got home that I read the back label - "Made exclusively from Tempranillo grapes from the Vina Pomal Estate, this is a wine with an intense colour, strong structure and modern style, which combines the aromas from aging in wood with the fruit in a balanced way, a typical characteristic of 'Nueva Expresion' Riojas"
The wine itself is what you'd expect, Australian Pinot meets Tempranillo. Possibly the most tragic part of this wine is how it's still good. The quality of the grapes is enough to carry it despite the techniques, but only just. The excellence that was Vina Pomal is changed forever (and not for the better, IMO).
Another one bites the dust.
Only... the bottle was Bordeaux shaped.
And the label said "Tempranillo"
It wasn't until I got home that I read the back label - "Made exclusively from Tempranillo grapes from the Vina Pomal Estate, this is a wine with an intense colour, strong structure and modern style, which combines the aromas from aging in wood with the fruit in a balanced way, a typical characteristic of 'Nueva Expresion' Riojas"
The wine itself is what you'd expect, Australian Pinot meets Tempranillo. Possibly the most tragic part of this wine is how it's still good. The quality of the grapes is enough to carry it despite the techniques, but only just. The excellence that was Vina Pomal is changed forever (and not for the better, IMO).
Another one bites the dust.