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WTN: Towering Riesling

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WTN: Towering Riesling

by David M. Bueker » Fri Oct 16, 2009 6:58 am

2007 Donnhoff Felsenturmchen Riesling Spatlese
This was served blind from magnum last night, but between knowing that the host only buys locally & having had this wine several times in the past it was a dead simple guess. It was actually a bit chilly at first, but warming brought out all of the fruit, a slight bitterness (like fruit peel) that was a welcome counterpoint & sufficient acidity. While it was truly delicious then, I went back to it about 3 hours later & it was even richer, brighter & more focused, going from delicious to captivating. It takes a lot for me to say this, but I think it has displaced my prior wine of the vintage, the Selbach-Oster 'Schmitt' Spatlese. I could have finished the magnum myself.
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Re: WTN: Towering Riesling

by Oswaldo Costa » Fri Oct 16, 2009 7:01 am

Thanks for the note. Sounds awesome. That's some praise, coming from you. Love it when slight bitterness complements acidity, giving the yings an extra dimension with which to balance the yangs.
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Re: WTN: Towering Riesling

by Salil » Fri Oct 16, 2009 12:13 pm

Damnit. This means a stop at Table & Vine tomorrow!
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Re: WTN: Towering Riesling

by David M. Bueker » Fri Oct 16, 2009 12:15 pm

The mags are all gone.
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Re: WTN: Towering Riesling

by Salil » Fri Oct 16, 2009 12:18 pm

I wasn't thinking about those - I don't have many occasions to open mags myself, but I did see the wine in 750 ml there. I've been tempted to grab one in the past (Gene Vilensky from my NY Riesling group had been singing the praises of the 07 Felsenturmchen for a while and telling me I needed to try it), but I think my resolve's finally broken if you're putting it on the same level as Schmitt.

[Off topic but speaking of Donnhoff Spatlesen, I just threw the 04 Dellchen #14 in the fridge. :)]
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Re: WTN: Towering Riesling

by David M. Bueker » Fri Oct 16, 2009 12:23 pm

Salil Benegal wrote:[Off topic but speaking of Donnhoff Spatlesen, I just threw the 04 Dellchen #14 in the fridge. :)]


And I threw the '07 Dellchen GG in the fridge last night.
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Re: WTN: Towering Riesling

by Rahsaan » Fri Oct 16, 2009 8:11 pm

Salil Benegal wrote:[Off topic but speaking of Donnhoff Spatlesen, I just threw the 04 Dellchen #14 in the fridge. :)]


Funnily enough, I just put the 04 Dellchen #11 in the refrigerator. (Although am not sure I'll get to it this weekend). Any idea how these are different?
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Re: WTN: Towering Riesling

by David M. Bueker » Sat Oct 17, 2009 9:24 am

Rahsaan wrote:
Salil Benegal wrote:[Off topic but speaking of Donnhoff Spatlesen, I just threw the 04 Dellchen #14 in the fridge. :)]


Funnily enough, I just put the 04 Dellchen #11 in the refrigerator. (Although am not sure I'll get to it this weekend). Any idea how these are different?


botrytis...yours has less
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Re: WTN: Towering Riesling

by Rahsaan » Sat Oct 17, 2009 10:20 am

David M. Bueker wrote:botrytis...yours has less


Good to know, thanks.

Not that I was expecting a lot of botrytis or anything..
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Re: WTN: Towering Riesling

by David M. Bueker » Sat Oct 17, 2009 11:09 am

Neither has a ton, but that's the dividing line.
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Re: WTN: Towering Riesling

by Mark Kogos » Sat Oct 17, 2009 7:08 pm

David

I have managed to track some down in NZ which is good since I am over there for a birthday next month. As always when I read these reviews, I am interested to know what your host served with the wine and at what stage of the dinner you shared the wine. A little context if possible.

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Re: WTN: Towering Riesling

by David M. Bueker » Sat Oct 17, 2009 8:34 pm

This was the welcome wine at a tasting that was focused on Chateauneuf. The Riesling, served with some cheeses, blew the Chateauneufs away.
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Re: WTN: Towering Riesling

by Mark Kogos » Sat Oct 17, 2009 9:38 pm

Thanks David.

I remember having a lovely meal once with a French merchant who started the evening with a Sauterne and foie gras. The theory was to start with meal with something sweet to balance the acids in the stomach. Have you every tried pairing an auslese or spaltese with something like foie gras (leaving the ethical questions around FG to some side for a second) ?

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Re: WTN: Towering Riesling

by David M. Bueker » Sat Oct 17, 2009 9:40 pm

Mark - I love foie gras, and I have paired it (or something made from it) with auslese on many occasions. I am sure modern spatlese would work as well.
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