This week two central vineyard whites from two excellent domaines, in a very good vintage. Alphonse Mellot is an old favourite, a domaine responsible for what are perhaps the best reds of the appellation. When discussing whites the domaine is also one of the best, although they have more competition in this arena in my opinion from the likes of François Cotat, Henri Bourgeois, Vincent Pinard, Pascal & Nicolas Reverdy (Nicolas died in 2007, but brother Pascal continues at the family domaine), Vacheron and so on. This bottle of La Moussière, the domaine's entry-level Sancerre, shows the strength of the vintage.
Alphonse Mellot Sancerre La Moussière 2006: This wine has a lovely mid-gold colour, and on the nose there is a fine bouquet of pithy fruit, yellow plum skins and a light, vibrant, crystalline character. Pure, lifted, but full, rich and grippy, the palate is broad and persuasive, and shows flavours that mirror the aromas. It has flesh and grip, although it is well defined rather than soft, and there is a lovely sappy-gritty element to it. Endowed with a little length, this is clearly a wine of substance. 17+/20
Perhaps offering better value-for-money than Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé, other central appellations such as Menetou-Salon and Reuilly should not be overlooked. Everybody's favourite seems to be Henry Pellé, today run by Anne Pellé. I met Anne and tasted many of her current wines at this year's Salon des Vins de Loire in Angers, but I must apologise as eight months on I have not yet produced a new profile for Winedoctor. I must put that right soon. The domaine is based in Morogues, just ten miles or so west of the Sancerre appellation, and the Clos de Ratier is a steep southwest-facing slope with Kimmeridgian soils.
Henry Pellé Menetou-Salon Morogues Clos de Ratier 2006: Good colour. Creamed, lactic fruit on the nose, rich and yet bright. Yellow plum, greengage and stony minerals here. Full on the palate, with a creamy richness of fruit although not that creamy in body naturally, rich in flavour, firm and balanced, with somewhat grippy acid and bite through the midpalate. Certainly ripe, fresh, substantial and interesting. Good firm fruit and grit on the finish and some length. This is nice. 16.5+/20