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WTN: Lots of Spanish wines with great Palo Cortado

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Jay Labrador

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WTN: Lots of Spanish wines with great Palo Cortado

by Jay Labrador » Thu Oct 15, 2009 4:50 am

Notes from a tasting of new wines at Barcino.

Jean Perico Cava Brut NV - Dry but with a good concentration of fruit. Just a hint of breadiness. Very clean with a bright finish. There's a bit of butterscotch as well if you let it warm up a bit. Good for the price.

Vilarnau Xarel-lo 2008 - My first 100% Xarel-lo so I was eager to try this. Soft but lemony. Hollow. A lemon-water mixture. Not much of a nose. It seems Xarel-lo is better used in Cava. This didn't do anything for me.

We had a couple of wines from Vinas del Vero which is a large producer from Somontano,

Vinas del Vero Colleccion Gewurztraminer El Enebro 2008 - Very dry, light style of gewurz. Easy but just a little bitter in the finish. Expensive for what it offers although those who are turned off by the very aromatic styles of this grape might want to give this a try.

Vinas del Vero Colleccion Cabernet Sauvignon Los Sasos 2004 - Smoky and very dry. Rather soft. The fruit has faded from this and it's hollowing out. Expensive.

Vinas del Vero Colleccion Merlot El Arino 2004 - Good fruit on the nose but like the Cab, this is over the hill, with very little fruit and a hollow mid-palate. Also expensive.

These wines were a bit puzzling as Sergi assured us they were very good when he tried them in Spain. Perhaps a younger vintage might show better.

Finca Constancia VdT Castilla 2007 - A mix of Petit Verdot, Cab Franc, Syrah, Tempranillo, and Graciano. Leather and sawdust on the nose. Good fruit but on the soft side which made it a little flabby on the finish. Just a bit above quaffer quality. An OK wine for the price.

La Miranda de Secatilla 2006 - Another Somontano wine, this time mostly Garnacha. Dry, with good balance. Real friendly. Not complex but a good, solid wine for current drinking.

Vinas del Vero Cabernet-Merlot 2008 - Rather high acidity but good fruit. A friendly, dry quaffer. Quite good with the tapas, especially the angulas.

Finca Moncloa 2005 - A VdT Cadiz made of Cabernet and Syrah. Nice nose but a little hot. A bit of mint. Spicy, soft, lots of fruit. Good wine but you can probably do better for the price.

Beronia III a.C. 2004 - I was told the name translates to 3 BC (III antes Cristo) but no one could tell me why they named the wine this way. Beautiful nose. Tremendous concentration of fruit. The oak is sticking out in places but hopefully a little more time will integrate it better. Sweet, ripe fruit. Meaty, vibrant, medium-bodied. Firm tannins. Excellent wine but the price is rather high at about $ 90.00. This was my #2 wine of the night but I think everyone else voted it #1.

I was asked what to try next. The choices being a Palo Cortado and a Cava. I've only had Palo Cortado thrice before and all of them were very dry and austere so I figured we do the Sherry first and end with a refreshing cava. Wrong!

Gonzalez-Byass Apostoles Palo Cortado - One of the top wines of Gonzalez-Byass. Beautiful, shiny mahogany-red color. Nutty nose. Amazing, fine flavor. Nutty, coffee, with just a hint of oxidation. Elegant, gentle, understated flavors and sweetness. Round and creamy but then the acidity comes in to keep it fresh. A very seductive wine. Superlative stuff. Painfully expensive at about $ 60.00 for a half bottle but this is a must-have for me. My wine #1. A bit of trivia, JC de Terry was with us for the tasting and told us the Gonzalez-Byass winery has 12 large barrels each named for the 12 Apostles of Christ. However, the barrel called Judas contains not wine but vinegar!

Albert de Vilarnau Cava Chardonnay 2005 - Unfortunately, very light and lacks body. I preferred the much cheaper first cava we had. This is very expensive for $60.00. You can get some pretty good Champagne for this price.

I think there were more misses than hits in this tasting but the Palo Cortado made up for it. Many thanks to Sergi for hosting us.
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Re: WTN: Lots of Spanish wines with great Palo Cortado

by ChaimShraga » Fri Oct 16, 2009 4:33 am

It's been ages since I ventured into Jerez. Somehow I find it fits less into my habits these days. Palo Cortado was my favorite style, though I preferred it dry while the Aposotles as I recall has some Pedro Ximinez in it. I enjoyed it yet the best Palo Cortado (and best sherry I had) was another Palo Cortado, the Domecq Capucino, which I think must be the Les Clos of Jerez. Here is my note for the Capucino from four years ago:

The best dry sherry - the best SHERRY period - I’ve had so far. Even the color is extremely pleasing - a clear orange-brown that manages to appear mature and young at the same time. An incredible array of aromas and flavors, including (in no particular order) sea air, dried dates, nuts, middle eastern pastries, iodine, mildew, brine, old furniture. Fresh, long, finely balanced, with loads of elegance and fantasic grip, bone dry yet rich. Hints of sweetness on the finish, that find a nice counterpoint in sublime salty notes. Invites you to contemplate its intricacies. A bargain at 50 euros!
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Victor de la Serna

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Re: WTN: Lots of Spanish wines with great Palo Cortado

by Victor de la Serna » Sat Oct 17, 2009 6:40 am

Jay Labrador wrote:It seems Xarel-lo is better used in Cava. This didn't do anything for me.

Bad producer and bad wine, not bad grape, Jay. The best native white grape in Catalonia. If you can get ahold of a bottle of Can Ràfols dels Caus' Xarel-lo Pairal, you'll see what I mean.
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Re: WTN: Lots of Spanish wines with great Palo Cortado

by Jay Labrador » Sat Oct 17, 2009 6:48 am

ChaimShraga wrote:It's been ages since I ventured into Jerez. Somehow I find it fits less into my habits these days. Palo Cortado was my favorite style, though I preferred it dry while the Aposotles as I recall has some Pedro Ximinez in it. I enjoyed it yet the best Palo Cortado (and best sherry I had) was another Palo Cortado, the Domecq Capucino, which I think must be the Les Clos of Jerez. Here is my note for the Capucino from four years ago:

The best dry sherry - the best SHERRY period - I’ve had so far. Even the color is extremely pleasing - a clear orange-brown that manages to appear mature and young at the same time. An incredible array of aromas and flavors, including (in no particular order) sea air, dried dates, nuts, middle eastern pastries, iodine, mildew, brine, old furniture. Fresh, long, finely balanced, with loads of elegance and fantasic grip, bone dry yet rich. Hints of sweetness on the finish, that find a nice counterpoint in sublime salty notes. Invites you to contemplate its intricacies. A bargain at 50 euros!


I've really been enjoying all types of sherry over the past few months. The Hidalgo Manzanilla Pasada Pastrana is another one I've found really good. I'm going to have to ask someone to bring in some of the Domecq Capucino so I can try it. Thanks for the recommendation.
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Re: WTN: Lots of Spanish wines with great Palo Cortado

by Jay Labrador » Sat Oct 17, 2009 6:50 am

Victor de la Serna wrote:
Jay Labrador wrote:It seems Xarel-lo is better used in Cava. This didn't do anything for me.

Bad producer and bad wine, not bad grape, Jay. The best native white grape in Catalonia. If you can get ahold of a bottle of Can Ràfols dels Caus' Xarel-lo Pairal, you'll see what I mean.


Thanks for your comments. I've heard about the Can Rafols dels Caus but unfortunately it's not available in Manila. Quite a few of the importers of Spanish wines here are my friends so I hope I can persuade one of them to bring in your recommendation.
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Victor de la Serna

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Re: WTN: Lots of Spanish wines with great Palo Cortado

by Victor de la Serna » Sat Oct 17, 2009 8:23 am

Can Ràfols dels Caus, Carlos Esteva's estate south of Barcelona, makes very interesting, idiosyncratic, personal wines that not everyone will love. I like his whites best - particularly Xarel-lo Pairal (fermented and aged in chestnut, not oak, barrels - updating an old Catalan tradition), La Calma (the best chenin blanc made by ayone in Europe outside of France) and El Rocallìs (made from the exceedingly rare Italian grape, incrocio Manzoni).

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