2003 Achaval-Ferrer Finca Bella Vista Malbec Pedriel Mendoza 13.5%
The Achaval-Ferrer Fincas (of which there are three) are among Argentina's finest malbecs, certainly my favorite among the many tasted over the years. I have a handful left over from the time when I was modern. A time not far in the past, perhaps two or three years (hard to tell because change happens so slowly). Periodically I check in to see how they are aging, and it's always interesting to take the pulse of our preferences (Marcia, who held on to modernity for longer, has been won over to the acid camp by a steady diet of Coat Door, Morgon, Jura, Loire and Riesling).
Of this one, only 99 cases were made. From vines planted in 1910 at an altitude of 3,100ft. Primary fermentation took place in small tanks. The wine then underwent malos in new French oak, where it then spent 13 months. Bottled unfiltered.
Like squid ink, almost black. Potent aromas of blackberry, spice (Marcia says black pepper), iodine and oak (ma non tropo). Fine and vibrant tannins combine with good acidity to create mouth puckering astringency. Mouth shows strong note of chocolate, not present on the nose. Elegant. Not hot at all. My only complaint is that the fruit is jammy. As in lightly stewed, cooked, baked. Jammy, yes, a savage indictment. Perhaps I have come to that point in every man's life where the rightful place of jam becomes bread, only. In this impressive wine, everything is right, except the jamminess. How can I put it? Perhaps a polo player from a fine family with excellent manners whose mild unctuousness makes you long for the dry wit of a curly-haired stand-up comedian in dungarees. No, that's not quite right.