2007 Bjørnstad, Chardonnay Ritchie Vnyd.:
Bright pear and honey scents with gentle oak (oak tends to fade as the wine airs); more viscous in the mouth than the nose suggests but plenty of acidity, good depth and strongly flavored but no tropical stuff – more fresh pear, peach and stone fruits, very engaging and never cloying; good length. Becomes finer and more integrated as the wine opens in the glass. 14.0% alcohol and none of it showing. Nice, and gives every indication that cellaring will be good to it.
(I have had a fair number of chards. produced by others from this vineyard; this is the one with the most backbone and brightness – several others have been heavier, oakier or bordering on syrupy. Even though all have had a good flavor this wine is the whole package.)
1999 Dom. Lafarge, Volnay Vendages Selectionées:
The first aromas were the most complex – thereafter the nose closed somewhat and became nothing but black fruit and earth; still grippy but very complete in the mouth, identifiable as Volnay, firm and with medium length. Several hours in the glass didn’t alter it much. A better wine than I thought at release but still needs cellaring and has the stuffing for it.
2007 Chat. De Chantemerle (Boudin), Chablis:
Straight-forward, lightly sour/steely and typical of its AOC . . . and yet . . . I am spoiled to this producer’s premier crus, Fourchaume and L’Homme Mort, and this was obviously not one of them. Still, at $23, more character and food compatibility than most domestic chardonnays, by a large margin. For short term aging or drinking.
2007 Graillot, Crozes-Hermitage:
Also, correct to its AOC and no more. Varietal, well-made, solid syrah with some complexity and a certain amount of finesse; and a steal at $22, full retail. A good match with pork chops.
2007 Dönnhoff, Riesling Qba (A.P. 7753010 34 08):
With tandori chicken and curry, 10% alcohol; clean, aromatic and off-dry – like cold, fast running creek water with flowers in it. I don’t know a better wine for the food we had and it was praised by novice and wine geek alike. Lovely.
Best, Jim
