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WTN: Northern Exposure - The Rhone

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Bill Spohn

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WTN: Northern Exposure - The Rhone

by Bill Spohn » Wed Oct 07, 2009 8:59 am

We did a Northern Rhone event last night that was one of the most pleasurable in recent memory.

2004 Voge Fleur de Crussol St. Peray – lemony nose and colour, clean wine with a persistent finish. Have to remember this as a white Burgundy ringer.

1994 Guigal Cote Rotie La Mouline – dark wine with a nice rubbery nose that segued into a charred meat sort of thing with an uplifted character. Smooth, tasty and long, with soft tannins, an elegant wine but with a tarry undercurrent toward the end. Great showing that had the rest of us giving serious thought as to how we could politely sneak out or swap our bottles fo something else.

2000 Guigal Chateau d’Ampuis Cote Rotie – this had something that was missing from the Mouline, a notable floral element to the nose , as well as notes of vitamin tablets, cassis and a bit of bacon. tasy, with a sweet entry, harmonious, and fresh near the end. Later showed hints of black pepper developing.

1991 Chapoutier Hermitage La Sizeranne – good fruit in this nose, with hints of eucalyptus and menthol as well as dark fruit and anise. Medium bodied and balanced, the tannins now very soft. Nice point for drinking this now.

1997 Chave Hermitage – another of my favourite pproducers. A nice mature nose of slightly dusty fruit, bandaid and black olives, sweet entry, good acidity and long slow finish. Lovely showing and years to go.

1999 Chave Hermitage – sweet slightly bretty nose. Oddly, it started out sweet in the mouth, but when we went back to it later it had lost that and was dry throughout. Very nice length with tarry notes and tons of black fruit. Needs time.

2004 Niepoort Charme – a wine made mostly from Tinto Roriz and injected here as a blind ringer. Sweet toffee nose and sweet and slightly hot and lingering on palate. Checking this wine out later and finding that Dirk fancies it a Burgundy ringer really surprised me.

1999 Dom. Remizieres Hermitage Cuvee Emilie – slight hint of spearmint in the nose, plus floral and even citrus notes. Dark young wine with an interesting hit of cocoa right near the end and good acidity.

1996 Clape Cornas – I was surprised that no one else had hauled out any Cornas and this one showed quite differently in the nose than everything that had come before. Dusty fruit with hints of clove and cassis, smooth entry, a bit of spice in the mouth, the tannins under control, and a nice lengthy finish. No rush but drank very well now. First bottle out of my case – guess it is time to start opening a bottle every once in awhile.

1999 Torbreck The Factor – aha – a ringer. But it couldn’t fool anyone with that nose despite French oak. Sweet blackberry liqueur was a sure giveaway, but on palate, it was dry and powerful, a great cheese wine, which was why I had been saved for last.

Wonderful tasting with not a wine that wasn’t in perfect shape, showing well.
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R Cabrera

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Re: WTN: Northern Exposure - The Rhone

by R Cabrera » Wed Oct 07, 2009 9:40 am

Bill Spohn wrote:1997 Chave Hermitage – another of my favourite pproducers. A nice mature nose of slightly dusty fruit, bandaid and black olives, sweet entry, good acidity and long slow finish. Lovely showing and years to go.

1999 Chave Hermitage – sweet slightly bretty nose. Oddly, it started out sweet in the mouth, but when we went back to it later it had lost that and was dry throughout. Very nice length with tarry notes and tons of black fruit. Needs time.


Thanks for the notes.
I'm sitting on both of these and have contemplated on having 1 pulled from my offsite storage. The 1997 appears to be the candidate. It looks like more time is warranted by the 1999.
Ramon Cabrera
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Re: WTN: Northern Exposure - The Rhone

by Mark Lipton » Wed Oct 07, 2009 9:59 am

Nice lineup, Bill! Thanks for the note on the '99 Chave, as that is my lone remaining bottle of Chave Hermitage, and that only owing to the largesse of a certain Garr character and Dale's Katrina raffle. I plan on keeping mine around for a good long while, all the while praying for a sound, clean cork.

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Re: WTN: Northern Exposure - The Rhone

by Bill Spohn » Wed Oct 07, 2009 10:13 am

Mark Lipton wrote:Nice lineup, Bill! Thanks for the note on the '99 Chave, as that is my lone remaining bottle of Chave Hermitage, and that only owing to the largesse of a certain Garr character and Dale's Katrina raffle. I plan on keeping mine around for a good long while, all the while praying for a sound, clean cork.

Mark Lipton



Psst - bring it to Vancouver and I'll open an 85.....
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Re: WTN: Northern Exposure - The Rhone

by Jenise » Wed Oct 07, 2009 3:21 pm

R Cabrera wrote:I'm sitting on both of these and have contemplated on having 1 pulled from my offsite storage. The 1997 appears to be the candidate. It looks like more time is warranted by the 1999.


The 99 was one of my contributions and I'd agree with that, but I would offer that this bottle was not decanted for very long prior (maybe an hour), and after an hour in the glass it opened up dramatically, losing all the initial brett and giving off that unmistakable Chave-ness.

Bill, I'll get my notes up shortly.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: WTN: Northern Exposure - The Rhone

by R Cabrera » Wed Oct 07, 2009 8:10 pm

Thanks for the additional information, Jenise. Looking forward to your notes.
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Re: WTN: Northern Exposure - The Rhone

by Jenise » Fri Oct 09, 2009 10:50 am

Bill Spohn wrote:We did a Northern Rhone event last night that was one of the most pleasurable in recent memory.


Indeed it was about as close to perfect as it gets.

2004 Voge Fleur de Crussol St. Peray – white peach entry with a bit of creamed corn on the midpalate and a bitter almond finish, good acidity (low acid's often a problem for me in Rhone whites). Very very good and very educational--had no idea there was an all-white appellation in the Rhone.

1994 Guigal Cote Rotie La Mouline – black cherry with burnt rubber--classic Cote Rotie. Violets develop in the glass. Great mouthfeel, it's smooth, warm and generous. Surely this will be my favorite wine of the night.

2000 Guigal Chateau d’Ampuis Cote Rotie – First impression of vitamins, followed by smoked meat and some green herbs these Ampuis always have. Black pepper shows up too, and it's all rather racy with fairly good acidity. It's a lovely bottle, but before I can lose my heart the glass is empty. Pout.

1991 Chapoutier Hermitage La Sizeranne – Spicey floral nose with an interesting eucalyptus edge and smokey undercurrent. Good acidity, soft tannins. Very metrosexual overall: it's both handsome and pretty at the same time and not at all insecure about it. Move over Mouline, this is going to be my favorite wine tonight.

1997 Chave Hermitage – Ahhhhh, what have we here? Initially seems more mature than the Sizz with major bandaids, black olive and cooked red bell pepper notes. Changes a lot in the glass, every sip seems different. Rather sexy. I'm in love. THIS is my favorite wine tonight.

1999 Chave Hermitage – Initial nose of brett. I worry, because after the first Chave is unveiled it seems certain that this will be one of our wines (the other was the Sizz) and our host has served them as a flite. Vitamins, sweetness, manure and black cherry quickly fill in around the brett. Very youthful. Half an hour later, bandaids, rubber and black pepper show up and the whole combines to show that classic Chave animale thing that is my undoing every time. What a seducer! '97 who? THIS will be my WOTN. (Btw, back a few years there was concern that the '99 was going to be shorter lived than the average Chave--I have to say, I didn't see that in this bottle.)

2004 Niepoort Charme – Sweet and ripe, very young and shows obvious quality. A fun ringer, and a wine I'd like to encounter again in 5-8 years. Bill, you say it's mostly Tinto Roriz but I remember it's owner saying, and I wrote it down at the time, that it was definitely 100% syrah. It's owner was wrong?

1999 Dom. Remizieres Hermitage Cuvee Emilie – Oh my, this is a lovely one. Surely we're back in the Rhone. Big acid with a bit of orange peel, and I find the spearment and cocoa too. Drinks well now but it's a little tight and very youthful, more so than the Chave.

1996 Clape Cornas – The first thing I smell is dust. That's followed by black currant and plum fruit. Classic Clape, and it's totally different than anything that came before it. Very excellent, this could be my WOTN too. And then I retaste the 99 Chave and Devin's La Mouline, which I've horded, and am totally confused. I cannot possibly choose.

1999 Torbreck The Factor – Every bit as excellent as the wines that preceded it, but where it would have shown very Rhone-like among a flight of Australian shirazes, among a bunch of the real thing it's instantly and cleverly outed as both an imposter and a Torbreck with two mono-worded questions from Blair. I like that people bring ringers, btw, (especially at this quality it goes without saying) even when it only serves to sharpen our skills by re-affirming what we already know.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: WTN: Northern Exposure - The Rhone

by Salil » Fri Oct 09, 2009 1:59 pm

That looks like a fantastic lineup Bill. That 97 Chave and the La Mouline in particular sound stunning.

Re. Torbreck, I do love the Factor but I've never found it particularly Rhone-like and am not surprised it stuck out - it is a phenomenal wine, but I find the big Torbreck reds quite singular and distinctive - not wines that could be passed off as old-world, but that's meant in the best way possible.
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Bill Spohn

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Re: WTN: Northern Exposure - The Rhone

by Bill Spohn » Fri Oct 09, 2009 2:20 pm

The aromatics of young Aussie Shiraz are a pretty high bar to ever mistaking them for anything else (well, maybe sometimes you might think they could be American).

Best ringers I've tasted for a N. Rhone would probably come from Chile or South Africa.

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