Bill Spohn wrote:We did a Northern Rhone event last night that was one of the most pleasurable in recent memory.
Indeed it was about as close to perfect as it gets.
2004 Voge Fleur de Crussol St. Peray – white peach entry with a bit of creamed corn on the midpalate and a bitter almond finish, good acidity (low acid's often a problem for me in Rhone whites). Very very good and very educational--had no idea there was an all-white appellation in the Rhone.
1994 Guigal Cote Rotie La Mouline – black cherry with burnt rubber--classic Cote Rotie. Violets develop in the glass. Great mouthfeel, it's smooth, warm and generous. Surely this will be my favorite wine of the night.
2000 Guigal Chateau d’Ampuis Cote Rotie – First impression of vitamins, followed by smoked meat and some green herbs these Ampuis always have. Black pepper shows up too, and it's all rather racy with fairly good acidity. It's a lovely bottle, but before I can lose my heart the glass is empty. Pout.
1991 Chapoutier Hermitage La Sizeranne – Spicey floral nose with an interesting eucalyptus edge and smokey undercurrent. Good acidity, soft tannins. Very metrosexual overall: it's both handsome and pretty at the same time and not at all insecure about it. Move over Mouline, this is going to be my favorite wine tonight.
1997 Chave Hermitage – Ahhhhh, what have we here? Initially seems more mature than the Sizz with major bandaids, black olive and cooked red bell pepper notes. Changes a lot in the glass, every sip seems different. Rather sexy. I'm in love. THIS is my favorite wine tonight.
1999 Chave Hermitage – Initial nose of brett. I worry, because after the first Chave is unveiled it seems certain that this will be one of our wines (the other was the Sizz) and our host has served them as a flite. Vitamins, sweetness, manure and black cherry quickly fill in around the brett. Very youthful. Half an hour later, bandaids, rubber and black pepper show up and the whole combines to show that classic Chave
animale thing that is my undoing every time. What a seducer! '97 who? THIS will be my WOTN. (Btw, back a few years there was concern that the '99 was going to be shorter lived than the average Chave--I have to say, I didn't see that in this bottle.)
2004 Niepoort Charme – Sweet and ripe, very young and shows obvious quality. A fun ringer, and a wine I'd like to encounter again in 5-8 years. Bill, you say it's mostly Tinto Roriz but I remember it's owner saying, and I wrote it down at the time, that it was definitely 100% syrah. It's owner was wrong?
1999 Dom. Remizieres Hermitage Cuvee Emilie – Oh my, this is a lovely one. Surely we're back in the Rhone. Big acid with a bit of orange peel, and I find the spearment and cocoa too. Drinks well now but it's a little tight and very youthful, more so than the Chave.
1996 Clape Cornas – The first thing I smell is dust. That's followed by black currant and plum fruit. Classic Clape, and it's totally different than anything that came before it. Very excellent, this could be my WOTN too. And then I retaste the 99 Chave and Devin's La Mouline, which I've horded, and am totally confused. I cannot possibly choose.
1999 Torbreck The Factor – Every bit as excellent as the wines that preceded it, but where it would have shown very Rhone-like among a flight of Australian shirazes, among a bunch of the real thing it's instantly and cleverly outed as both an imposter and a Torbreck with two mono-worded questions from Blair. I like that people bring ringers, btw, (especially at this quality it goes without saying) even when it only serves to sharpen our skills by re-affirming what we already know.