We have had some interesting wines this week; a broodingly impressive Aglianico del Vulture, an ethereal ageing Saumur-Champigny, an atypically easy-drinking Cahors and a crisp QPR Rueda in addition to one of Zind-Humbrecht's less baroque and more food friendly offerings noted in Wine Focus.
Aglianico del Vulture Vigne di Mezzo Efesto 2001 – Feudi San Gregorio – Alc. 14% -(approx. €20)
At recent tastings, I have found the reds from this estate excessively muscular and woody (the whites are excellent) but, on the showing of this bottle, patience is perhaps required. Colour was deep opaque purple; there was just a whiff of oak on the nose nut it was fully integrated into the broodingly powerful palate. Body was full, fruit deep and dark with decent acidity, opulent notes of roses and ripe blackberry and hints of tar and old books; the whole was encased in firm dark but not drying tannins which gave a balancing austerity to the opulent aromas. A fascinating wine, but not for the tannin allergic; 17/20.
Cahors “The New Black Wine” 1997 – Clos Triguedina – Alc. 13% - (current vintages c. €50)
This wine is made by a supposedly traditional method whereby some of the bunches and must are heated to 55°C. The colour was closer to deep ruby than black, indeed much less close to black than the Aglianico. I was expecting a challenging wine like a lot of good Cahors or the Aglianico, so it came as quite as surprise to find this one easy drinking; there was medium body, some nice dark fruit (a lot of prune) with a cooked and somewhat candied touch with smooth mouth-feel and structure and even a certain elegance; 15.5/20 but not worth the current price. (Turning up my notes of last year’s Malbec fête, I seem to have been more impressed by the youthful showing of 2004 and 2005 but I still don’t think them worth the price.)
Saumur-Champigny 1985 – René-Noël Legrand – Alc. 12% (guess, no label) - (<€9)
I was so concerned that this bottle might be OTT that I had another of a younger wine in reserve but my concern was groundless. Colour was ruby/garnet with remarkably little bricking and the nose showed pencil shavings, gently sweet red fruit with slight touches of fine Darjeeling tea. The body was medium/light but there was enough acidity for liveliness and sufficient roundness, resolved structure and depth to frame the delicate aromas together with a dash of sweaty horse to add a dimension which only the anti-brett fundamentalists could dislike. The whole was harmonious and long with ethereal after-taste with just a hint of drying coming through; nevertheless this was better than my memory of any of the previous bottles and also than the ’82 which I reported on a few months ago; 17.5/20 QPR!!!.
Rueda “Rey Santo” 2008 – Javier Sanz – Alc. 13% - (€6,64), made 50/50 from Verdejo and Viura.
Aromatic, crisp, mineral and fresh with certain Sauvignon like features but happily without the feline notes which I found recently on another Rueda 100% from Sauvignon blanc; an excellent pairing for the typically Belgian “moules (mussels) Marinière/pommes frites”; 15.5/20 QPR!.