Jim Lester came to town last week with a batch of his current Wyncroft releases for an informal tasting hosted by Errol and Patty Kovitch. Wyncroft is certainly amont the very best wineries in Michigan and arguably produces the finest reds here. Errol always likes tasting Jim's wines compared to some other quality wines as a benchmark, and while we did just that, there was no actually “judging” to speak of. Wines were simply opened and enjoyed with a variety of cheeses, breads and other delectables for what they are, and by and large, most were very tasty indeed.
The following two reds stood out for this taster. The Pinot Noir was sandwiched in between two very nice red Burgundies and more than held its own.
2007 Wyncroft Lake Michigan Shore Pinot Noir Avonlea: Despite Jim's warning that this clean ruby garnet colored wine is “way too young right now,” it throws a gorgeous perfume that makes a real style statement with its floral, smoky black cherry personality. No wall flower this; it has very good weight, depth and structure. Jim says to give it 5 years, but it will certainly go for longer than that.
As we were driving home after the tasting, Kim asked me what my “Wine of the Night” was, and this next one could well have been it.
2006 Wyncroft Lake Michigan Shore “Shou” Avonlea, 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 12.5% alc.: Jim says that his late wife Rae Lee called this “the most Margaux-like Shou we've made so far.” As previously stated, '06 was the coolest vintage on record, so the grapes were picked at 20.5 Brix and soaked on the skins for a month; Lester chapatalized for the first time ever to get this up to 12.5% alc. With clean dark garnet color, it offers a hint of juniper over pretty black currant and blackberry shaded with some cedar; with air, Lester adds impressions of “a little eucalyptus and sourgum molasses sweetness,” saying that it should develop some nice cigar box character with time. Rich and deep, young and in need of time, but with the stuffing to age for 10 years, we'll try it again in 2-3 years to see where it's at.
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