WTN: A tasting with honours to Languedoc opposite Bordeaux

Last weekend the Brussels temple of gastronomy, Rob, put on show a number of wines with a 10% reduction for that evening. I was afterwards able to verify in the case of one of exhibitors that these discounted prices were still at least 10% higher than in the exhibitor’s own cellars. So it turned out to be a blessing in disguise that my Wine Probation Officer whisked me away before I could place any orders.

The event was crowded and I find that my notes in pencil are mostly illegible so I will stick to what I can remember. (Prices quoted were as offered for the evening.)

Bordeaux
There was an odd assortment here; perhaps the fact that I was unimpressed by the most famous and expensive says more about me, my palate and inexperience with young Pomerol than about the wine itself.

Château Pierrail Bordeaux Supérieur 2007 (€11) was well coloured and robustly fruity and structured; 15/20++ now, QPR.
Château Montaiguillon Montagne-Saint-Émilion 2005 (€13) was aromatically more subdued but had more substance and promise; 15/20.
Château La Fleur-Pétrus 2006 (€98) was quite closed, more refined than the others but with a hint of jamminess; I heard all round me comments of how this did not live up to its price tag and quite frankly I found most of the others were more enjoyable right now; 14.5/20 with ?? potential .
I liked Château Dutruch Grand Poujeaux Moulis 2006 (€13) a lot for its savoury fruit, tang and backbone; 16/20 QPR.
Les Roches de Yon-Figeac Saint-Émilion 2005 (€20) was round, fruity and leathery with marked tannins. The exhibitor warned me that this tannic house style is only fully successful in a year like 05 with a lot of substance; 15.5/20++.

Loire and Languedoc/Rousillon

Sancerre Florès 2008 – Domaine Pinard (€18) was its usual reliable self, perhaps even more dense and mineral than the 2007; 16/20.
Vin de Pays de l’Hérault (blanc) 2007 – Mas Jullien (€25) was lovely with touches of marmalade on the nose and a remarkably fresh and complex palate with acacia touches and great acidity and minerality; the exhibitors attribute this to a recently acquired plot of Carignan blanc; 16.5/20++. 2006, without the new plot of Carignan blanc, was rounder, more typically Southern, with less freshness and minerality; 16/20.
Coteaux du Languedoc “Les États d’Âme” 2007 – Mas Jullien (€16) had the typically generosity of the vintage, with firm body, dark fruit and mineral touches; 15.5/20++.
Vin de Pays de l’Hérault 2006 – Domaine de la Grange des Pères (€50), made from equal parts of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Mourvèdre, was my wine of the evening with its concentration, length, exceptional depth of complex dark fruit laced with chocolate and liquorice; 17.5/20+.
Côtes du Roussillon Villages Vieilles Vignes 2006 – Clos des Fées (€28) , a Grenache dominated blend, was richly fruited and structured with still present notes of wood; 16.5/20 when the wood integrates.

Château Cazal-Viel, Saint-Chinian/Laurent Miquel
Viognier “Nord-Sud” Vin de Pays de l’Oc 2008 – Laurent Miquel (€9) was my favourite from this line-up presented by Laurent Miquel himself. It was beautifully impregnated with white fruit and honey and enlivened by good acidity and minerality; 16/20+ QPR!
The reds (all Saint-Chinian except the first, VDP) were suave and polished productions, somewhat international, with good depth of fruit and liqueur touches with progressively greater Syrah domination and oak patina (quite well managed) as the hierarchy mounted; I rate them rising from 14.5/20 to 16/20. They were –
Syrah/Grenache 2007 – Laurent Miquel (€5) QPR
Vieilles Vignes 2007 – Château Cazal-Viel (€8) QPR
Bardou 2005 – Château Cazal-Viel (€17)
Larmes des Fées 2005 – Henri et Laurent Miquel (€25)

Volpaiole Val di Cornia 2005 (€54), made from Sangiovese 50%, Merlot and Syrah (if I remember correctly)
I can find no information on this estate by searching in my reference books and on Google. The wine was presented by the charming and decorative owners. It was round, dense and concentrated with dark fruit and chocolate. I would like to have contemplated it a bit more but the probation officer was beckoning.

Of the rest of the exhibits, I regret particularly having missed Zinfandel Old Vine 2005 – Seghesio (€30).

Tim mutters....."to be a blessing in disguise that my Wine Probation Officer whisked me away before I could place any orders".

Nice one Tim. Your jolly note came just after I heard on the news that General Qaddafi is visiting Newfoundland next Tuesday after his NY sojourn. That is funny too!! Have to believe it is too rocky for his tent?

Anyway, some good TNs there. Mas Jullien used to be available here, and I am a fair Cazal-Vial fan although we just get the regular Viognier.
Domaine de la Grange des Pères is a new name to me Tim?
Tasted that Seghesio about 18 months ago, oak driven and very tannic. Might need another year to show its best, in my opinion.

Thanks Bob.

Domaine de la Grange des Pères is a new name to me Tim?

Bob, Grange des Pères has a sort of cult status amongst many Languedoc lovers. Owner Laurent Vaillé's first vintage was 1992, I think, after he planted his vineyard at Aniane with massal selections from vines of such famous producers as Chave and Dürrbach, I believe. He practices low yields; his wines made an impact from the start and he was not afraid to charge high prices. Always quickly scenting a good thing in that area, Liz and Mike Berry imported these wines in London which is where I made their acquaintance. They age well and 1995 and 1996 are still excellent; I thought 1997 less good and some bottles smelled frankly shitty.