by Steve Kirsch » Sun Sep 20, 2009 1:03 pm
Friday evening it was a choice between the high school football game and dinner at a friend's. Hmmm...beautiful evening, would be nice to get out. But my spouse wants to relax so we opt for dinner. Good move--here's what was opened: 2006 Il Frappato from Occhipinti, one of the most achingly beautiful wines I've had in years. Pure of heart, and with a Northern demeanor, and this is a wine from Sicily? Impossible! On to the 2002 Bourgueil "Clos Senechel" from Breton, a wine we've enjoyed many times (I think half the US allotment must have landed in Detroit). My last couple of bottles convinced me that this wine was getting past its prime, but this bottle was still in very good shape. Finally, when I felt we still needed more wine--and despite my wife's disagreement--I spotted this in my neighbor's cellar: the 2006 (I think) Arbois Pupillin from Houillon/Overnoy, a pale pink Poulsard from the Jura. Another old friend, this poulsard is just a little bit tart, so there's some transition from the two previous wines, both of which feature sweetness born of ripe fruit. But drinking the Overnoy poulsard gives me a feeling of consuming something rare and wonderful and unusual. I suppose it says something about the wine world today that such exclusivity comes at the princely sum of less than $35. My two bottles will remain in the cellar for another year or two at lease, as this is still very young.