Pierre Ghysens’ wine club met last night at the excellent restaurant l’Atelier des Saveurs at Flémalle having been evicted from the premises of TGVins. Pierre is in particular a Rhône expert and this time presented a collection of 2007s with the accent very much on the Rhône. The well balance generosity and precocious drinkability of the reds from the South are very evident and the results from the North are on this evidence more than acceptable.
Champagne Bruno Paillard NV showed a nicely crisp and biscuity nose and palate entry but the finish cloyed (excessive dosage?); 14.5/20.
Saint-Joseph “Pierres Sèches” 2007 – Domaine Yves Cuilleron – showed a most attractively perfumed nose with pure red and dark fruit (a lot of cherry) and faint vanilla touches but the medium bodied palate was somewhat astringent with its cherry definitely quite sour at this stage, but pure and elegant nevertheless and showing a promisingly haunting after-taste. Pierre claims to have been influential in persuading Cuilleron to be much more selective with the oak barrels he uses and this shows in greater discretion in wood aromas than often with Cuilleron in the past (though this was always the least woody cuvée); 15.5/20 with promise.
Côte Rôtie 2007 – Domaine Pierre Gaillard – is at present subdued on the nose but the palate was suave and elegant and fuller and richer than the previous but the finish was dominated by creamy vanilla veering to caramel; Pierre says that Gaillard’s wines have a reliable track record for integrating their oak down the line; barely 15/20 now but probably 16/20+ when the wood integrates.
Côtes du Rhône “La Sagesse” 2007 – Domaine Gramenon , a Grenache/Syrah blend from organic grapes grown near Vinsobres, was more ready than the two previous and showed some lovely pure fruit combined with more amplitude and structure than in previous years and velvety mouth-feel; 16/20+.
Côtes du Rhône “Les Quartz” 2007 – Clos du Caillou, 80% Syrah, 20% Grenache, showed its Syrah dominance in its steely ripe cherry aromas and its Southern location of its vines in its sleekly powerful body, generosity and slight sweetness of fruit; 16.5/20.
I have been underwhelmed by previous offering of Châteauneuf du Pape – Domaine Grand Veneur but this 2007 was really very fine. Fuller bodied, deeper and more complex than any of the previous with dark fruit and attractively tangy notes of tar and liquorice only slightly marred by some bitter notes from alcohol burn on the finish (15%) (I have no idea whether this will remain apparent with ageing); 16.5/20++ and more if/when the alcohol burn recedes.
Côtes du Rhône Villages Rasteau (white) 2007 – Domaine des Escaravailles - was a typically Mediterranean white round and soft with white fruit (pear) notes, a dab of honey and enough minerals and smooth acidity for typical balance. It made a brave effort to accompany foie gras but something a touch sweeter, e.g. the last wine below, might been better: 15.5/20.
Syrah “Tandem” 2007 - Domaine des Ouleb Thaleb (Morocco), Alain Graillot. Alain Graillot is a magician. His 2006 was very good in a Southern rather candied and spicy style. This 2007 is even better showing remarkable pure linear fruit with bright acidity and surprising finesse and elegance. It could almost be taken for one of Graillot’s Crozes-Hermitages but I thought that there was a touch more warmth and generosity here; 16/20+++.
Viogier Vin de Table (2008) – Michel Gassier, Nîmes. Gassier (better known for his Château de Nages range from the Costières de Nîmes) made two versions of this wine both of which we tasted –
Fortified up to 14% alcohol and 35g of RS; this could be taken for a Sauvignon blanc on the nose with marked citrus notes and some candy and white peach coming up. The palate was lightly sweet and quite rich but with decent acidity and a slight alcoholic kick on the finish; 15.5/20++
Fermentation stopped at 10% alcohol (unfortified) and also 35g of RS; this version showed more intense aromatics and fruit and perhaps even more markedly citrus notes (grapefruit), a more caressing mouth-feel and a sweetly citrus finish (no kick); 16/20++