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WTN: Right Bank, Valtellina, and Chablis (adios Arv)

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Dale Williams

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WTN: Right Bank, Valtellina, and Chablis (adios Arv)

by Dale Williams » Mon Sep 07, 2009 12:47 pm

Friday we went into town for a goodbye party at my friend Arv's. Arv has already been living and working in Sacramento for a couple months, but this was a chance to see folks before they packed up. Jenn and Arv had out a nice assortment of meats and cheeses, and he was opening some serious bottles even if the crowd only included a couple of geeks. The ones I tried

1989 Certan de May
This was quite lovely, a midbodied Pomerol with good acidity, lots of dirt (clean dirt!), dark berry fruit. Some tannins but more grippy than hard, good length. A-

2000 Clos Chaumont (1er Cotes d. Bordeaux)
Solid little Bordeaux, cassis and black plum with a bit of tobacco. Drinking well now. B/B+

1998 Peby Faugeres
Very polished, large-framed, sweet Merlot fruit covered with a veneer of vanillin oak. Not my favorite style, but an extremely well made example. B

Afterwards we stopped uptown at Cipolla Rosso for some dinner. I started with a frittura of asparagus and proscuitto, followed by pappardelle with wild rabbit ragu, Betsy had a salad and lamb chops (otherwise good meal, but the "rack of lamb" special consisted of 5 chops the width of the bone, she asked for medium rare but with that thickness everything is well done). I had carried the 2004 Nino Negri Sfursat (Valtellina), I've never had a Sfursat before, and from comments elsewhere was expecting a somewhat rustic Nebbiolo. This was actually rather smooth and modern, a big wine with a bit of toasty oak. Rich deep red fruit, a bit of raisin, powerful, tanninc. Like a midmodern Barolo on steroids. Not what I expected, but quite interesting. B/B+

Saturday night we had lobsters, corn, and salad, with the 2005 Drouhin "Montmains" Chablis 1er. A tad subdued, ripe apples, moderate acidity, a touch of seashore. Good wine, but I kept waiting for a bit more verve and complexity. Maybe in a partially closed state? B

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent 
wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't 
drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no 
promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.  

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