by Jenise » Thu Sep 03, 2009 10:58 am
We keep a garage fridge full of inexpensive white quaffers, and to keep from getting bored by the same old favorites I often pick up some oddball stuff to try just for fun. The 2006 Loredona Pinot Grigio made from fruit grown in one of California's cool coastal climates (Monterey) was just such a wine. And yes, I know I used 'gris' in the title and 'grigio' in the description, but they called it the latter while stylistically it was very much the former, so there. Beautiful to look at in the clear, tall Alsatian style bottle with color of pale gold tinged with a smoky grayish pink. Nose of pear, spice, and Estee Lauder perfume. On the palate, nutmeg, white peach, marmalade and a very prominent lychee nut flavor. It nicely stops mere inches from going off-dry and the subtle acidity delivers an overall elegant mouthfeel. It's not just excellent but unique: I've never tasted an American wine like it. For $10, it's an absolute bargain. Btw, if you've never heard of Loredona before, neither had I, so I just looked it up. Apparently it's a brand owned by DFV Family wines, they who also own Clay Station, Delicato and Gnarly Head. Their business is mostly or all lower end and Lodi-centric, but they apparently own a vineyard in Monterey called San Bernabe and that is where the fruit for this wine came from. The other two wines they make and sell under this label are a reisling from the same vineyard and a Lodi Viognier.
Neighbors dropped in shortly after we opened the Loredona so we pulled out two more wines and staged a duel between two Sonoma Sauvignon Blancs: 2008 Rodney Strong 'Charlotte's Home' and 2008 Simi. We all agreed the Simi was tasty: very Californian with slightly pudgy citrus and ripe white melon flavors. The acidity just barely reigns in the fruit and a mild malo overlay blurs the edges in such a way that you steel yourself for a residual sugar aftertaste. It doesn't come, but I suspect it would be just a tad cloying if not so cold. If a bottle of wine could turn into a human, this one would be Jessica Simpson. When we finished that sample and poured the Rodney Strong, there was a resounding "oooh!" around the table. The contest was over in one sip: pear, green apple, green bean, lots of freshly mown grass, oyster shell and chalk dust just burst on your tongue with zippy acidity and focus. I haven't a clue how it's made but it's lean, svelte and tastes oak-free. This is a far better wine than I thought this winery capable of; will definitely buy again. Both were $10.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov