WTN: Fine Coudoulet, Morellino, Rosso Umbria and some others

Here is a rapid survey of some wines consumed over the last 10 days or so with some excellent ones amongst them, with the best for last, as well as some others.

Côtes du Rhône “Coudoulet de Beaucatel “ 1999 - Château de Beaucastel showed up the preceding Rasteau from Beaurenard, whose praises I sung in the barbecue WF, by its almost Burgundian cherry aromas and by its much greater refinement and length, even though not lacking in appropriate weight and depth; 16.5/20++.
Morellino di Scansano Riserva 1999 – Moris Farms was an excellent example of mature Tuscan Sangiovese still showing some typically bright fruit and acid tang but with velvety texture, complexity and generosity brought out by time; 16.5/20++.
I had another bottle ready in case Château Lanessan Haut-Médoc 1997 was well over the top but, in the event, this proved a good mature example of what used to be called a luncheon claret; medium bodied at most but with good mouth-fill and softly mature claret fruit, pencil shaving touches and resolved structure; drink up if you have any but this one was still very nice; 16/20.
VdP de l’Hérault 2005 (blanc) – Jean-Michel Alquier, made from Roussanne 60% and Marsanne 40%, was cracked up by the merchant to be worthy of Puligny-Montrachet; not of a great one, I think, but it is a nicely creamy, complex and rich white with enough acidity to prevent cloying and good length; 16/20++.
Chardonnay “Amelia” – Casablanca Valley – 2003 – Concha y Toro (14% alc) is another attempt to outface Puligny-Montrachet or Meursault but for me it didn’t work as well as the previous; it was close to being a caricature of rich New World chard with its burgeoning bouquet, rich honeyed and buttery texture and tropical fruit; it was just saved from that by touches of fresh minerals and by the fact that its wood was by now integrated. However, we were not inclined to finish the bottle as Germaine complained of its becoming cloying and I did not feel tempted to drink her share; 15/20.
Rueda Sauvignon 2008 – Vega de Castilla showed aromas of English boiled sweet cut by some feline bitterness but was more drinkable than those descriptors imply with nice refreshing acidity; 14/20+.
Chinon 2007 – Langlois-Château was a simple but pleasantly drinkable wine with its lively fruit and crisply mineral acidity; 14.5/20+.
Rosso dell’Umbria IGT Arquata 2001 – Adanti, made from Cabernet Sauvignon and franc 45%, Merlot 45% and Barbera 10%, was delicious with deep red and dark fruit, full body, rich velvety texture and firm tannic structure towards the long finish. This is a very classically shaped and elegant wine like its Sagrantino stable mate but with a completely different flavour profile. An excellent estate which I will certainly try to revisit during our October trip to Umbria http://www.cantineadanti.com/eng/; 17/20+.

Thanks for the notes.
I have a lone 99 Coudoulet, think you've convinced me to put in queue.
I thought the 97 Lanessan was a nice wine, though I finished several years ago.
The Herault sounds like a bargain (assuming it was priced as a Herault and not a Puligny )

[David M. Bueker]

Glad to see the '99 Coudoulet doing well. The current vogue (elsewhere) for in your face walls of fruit has relegated Coudoulet to a lower tier of prestige than I think it deserves. All too often I see people proclaiming a 3-4 year old Coudoulet as dead. I know it's a more ageworthy wine than that.

The Herault sounds like a bargain (assuming it was priced as a Herault and not a Puligny )

The Hérault is not a cheapie for the region, c. €19; but not much Puligny available close to that price - the cheapest at the same merchant from J-M Boillot is €35.

Ouch, that's the most expensive Herault other than Mas d G I've heard of. Still, spunds like a nice wine