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WTN: Gloria, Mylord, an American gruner

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WTN: Gloria, Mylord, an American gruner

by Jenise » Sat Aug 29, 2009 12:56 pm

1999 Gloria, St. Julien
Bought this wine early on and loved it. It drank so well as a baby, but then I decided I was being wasteful and should lay off the rest for aging. I'm not sure I made the right decision, because even though we got through last night's bottle it's the first one since the early bottles that wasn't savagely green and basically too awkward to drink. It's only one of three I have left of the case. The wine's still odd: it had four distinct flavors that didn't create a harmonious whole. Those are ripe tomato, minerals, green herbs/tobacco and perfume. And when I say perfume, I mean there's not only a cheap perfume note on the nose (no Margaux here), it actually tastes too of what you taste if you lick skin where cologne or perfume has been sprayed. (Bob agreed wholeheartedly with this description, btw, it wasn't just me). We drank it, but I can't say we enjoyed it all that much.


2005 Mylord Cuvee Milady, appellation Bordeaux
This is one that makes you get up the next morning with overwelming curiosity about what you drank. It's the first we've opened of a six pack that came from Garagiste, and so long ago that I recalled nothing of the hype except that it was exceptionally provocatively hyped. What we thought: attractive modern flavors, red and black fruit with a bit of Red Vines licorice, low to low-medium range structure and tannins, not much depth but everything that is here is pleasant, tasty and harmonious, a good pop n' pour wine, seems to be a cab-merlot blend and if I paid $20 or less for it it's a reasonably good buy for near-term drinking and better than most Cal or Wash cabs we could buy in that price range.

How Garagiste sold it: The My Lady is their super-cuvee. If the Mylord is the third wine of Ausone, then the My Lady is their Ausone. This wine is given the supreme treatment. It was going through malolactic when Parker was around to taste so they couldn’t pull a proper sample. When told what Parker had said about the 2005 Mylord (and that I had a similar reaction, along with many of Bordeaux’s most famous names), they laughed and made it quite clear the My Lady is 2-3 times the wine. I’m not sure how that could be and I wasn't really interested in an unknown $50 Bordeaux. While I’m sure it was excellent, we would be just fine with the regular Mylord. “How about $16+” I was told? My reply was swift....”I’ll take everything”....There’s nothing really to say about this wine. It’s the top 2005 wine of one of Bordeaux’s most consumer friendly properties, it’s their strictest selection, hand coddled to age with tannin, perfect, even gorgeous ripe 2005 fruit and the capacity to age for a number of years. This was made form the famous “draconian” selection and they are so proud of it, the wine is almost like a child. Only a few hundred cases were produced, which makes this not only one of Bordeaux’s rarest examples but most difficult to obtain. I would not be surprised if this receives an outrageous review once it is bottled, all for $16.87....If you purchased the everyday miracle that was the 2005 Mylord, you will be amazed by the quality level of My Lady...it is the most ridiculously priced wine for the money I’ve seen in ages and it will best many classified growths from the vintage at $50+.

Have to disagree strongly with that last statement, but you have to laugh.


2008 Syncline Gruner Veltliner, Underwood Mountain Vineyard, Columbia Gorge, Washington

I knew this would be disappointing compared to it's Austrian cousins but still I couldn't resist, never having had a gruner from anywhere but Austria and admiring that grape very much. Well...it's not Austrian. It's tasty, but the flavors are subtle and not very distinctive. I didn't find the sweet pea I look for, nor did it have the acidity to give it cut and precision or raise it above quaffer level. Blind, you would guess you're drinking a domestic pinot grigio by virtue of being able to immediately eliminate chardonnay and sauvignon blanc and making PG would be the next most likely thing. There are many better white wines for $21. Only 125 cases made.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: WTN: Gloria, Mylord, an American gruner

by Bruce Hayes » Sat Aug 29, 2009 2:50 pm

Wow, a Gruner from somewhere, anywhere, other than Austria. What will they think of next??!! :D
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Re: WTN: Gloria, Mylord, an American gruner

by Covert » Sat Aug 29, 2009 3:32 pm

Thanks, Jenise. I don't have any 1999 Gloria at all, for some reason. And I struck out again attempting to buy the 1999 Barde-Haut. Century Liquor had both the 1998, which I have, and the 2000, which was too expensive for my blood. I have the 2001. But I will keep my eye out for both 1999s.

I was very pleasantly surprised with a 1999 Clerc Milon last night. It had the rare quality of feeling wonderful while it tasted very Pauillac, but in a soft, almost femine, way. Most wonderful mouthfeel. It has remained with me through today, coming back intact in waves. My last one, damn it. And if I were to find it elsewhere, it wouldn't be as good. It almost never fails that if I buy any bottle which has been stored for a few years anyplace else, it tastes like damaged goods, if only in a subtle way.
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David M. Bueker

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Re: WTN: Gloria, Mylord, an American gruner

by David M. Bueker » Sat Aug 29, 2009 3:46 pm

Bruce Hayes wrote:Wow, a Gruner from somewhere, anywhere, other than Austria. What will they think of next??!! :D


Strub makes Grüner Veltliner in Germany. :D
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Re: WTN: Gloria, Mylord, an American gruner

by Joe Moryl » Sun Aug 30, 2009 10:37 am

Bruce Hayes wrote:Wow, a Gruner from somewhere, anywhere, other than Austria. What will they think of next??!! :D


A couple places in the Finger Lakes have some young GV in the ground, IIRC Lamoreaux Landing is one. Not sure if/when we will see any bottled as such.
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Dale Williams

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Re: WTN: Gloria, Mylord, an American gruner

by Dale Williams » Sun Aug 30, 2009 11:12 am

Thanks for notes. Never seen an American GV (I have had the Strub David references)

Re Gloria: The 82 was the wine that got me into this hobby...er, obsession. I've had great bottles of the 61, 70, etc. But somewhere in early 90s they seemed to move to an earlier drinking style. I'm cellaring the 00, but even that I plan on having within next few years. I just don't think it's a 20+ year wine anymore, even in more structured years.

Re Milady- Rimmerman is the hype king, funny quotes. I had the 05 Mylord, decent enough for $7, but not really what one would expect for 05 Bordeaux.
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Re: WTN: Gloria, Mylord, an American gruner

by Salil » Sun Aug 30, 2009 11:53 am

Good grief, what hype on the Mylord. Some of those writeups are certainly very entertaining (I still have some of the old epic olive oil sales and the Cornelissen emails saved for the hilarious prose).
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Re: WTN: Gloria, Mylord, an American gruner

by Jenise » Sun Aug 30, 2009 1:03 pm

Dale Williams wrote:Re Milady- Rimmerman is the hype king, funny quotes. I had the 05 Mylord, decent enough for $7, but not really what one would expect for 05 Bordeaux.


I have six of the Mylord here somewhere too--I remember you commenting on it before, hence I've made no real effort to unearth them. But I do find, post-bottle, his comments fairly entertaining and mostly the laugh's on me for getting suckered in again. It actually does cure me of believing anything he says--for awhile, and then I'll open something that just knocks my socks off that really does justify the hype (like the 07 Vrignaud Chablis) and I'm lost in hope again.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: WTN: Gloria, Mylord, an American gruner

by Rahsaan » Tue Sep 01, 2009 5:32 am

American grüner sounds interesting, although I guess this bottle was not the most exciting. Do they have higher-level cuvees that might offer more interest? I'm guessing the vines are young.
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Re: WTN: Gloria, Mylord, an American gruner

by Richard Fadeley OLD » Tue Sep 01, 2009 9:22 pm

On several occasions over the past year I have had a beautiful experience with the '99 Gloria. All from passive cellars or store shelves and with a 2-3 hour decant (then back into the bottle), the '99 Gloria was 92-93 points IMO. Could be a case of a cooler cellar versus a passive cellar, but others also expressed their affection for this wine. Interesting disparity!
Richard Fadeley, CWS
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Jenise

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Re: WTN: Gloria, Mylord, an American gruner

by Jenise » Thu Sep 03, 2009 8:15 pm

Richard Fadeley wrote:On several occasions over the past year I have had a beautiful experience with the '99 Gloria. All from passive cellars or store shelves and with a 2-3 hour decant (then back into the bottle), the '99 Gloria was 92-93 points IMO. Could be a case of a cooler cellar versus a passive cellar, but others also expressed their affection for this wine. Interesting disparity!


Now that's useful information! Maybe I just need to let these rest some more (and obviously, I should have decanted). Nothing to lose, right? Thanks.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Bill Hooper

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Re: WTN: Gloria, Mylord, an American gruner

by Bill Hooper » Thu Sep 03, 2009 11:14 pm

David M. Bueker wrote:
Bruce Hayes wrote:Wow, a Gruner from somewhere, anywhere, other than Austria. What will they think of next??!! :D


Strub makes Grüner Veltliner in Germany. :D


And a good one it is.

Actually, Russ Raney has some planted in Oregon as well (along with Rieslaner.) Of course there is much GV planted in Czech Moravia and Hungary as well as other central European countries.

Cheers,

Bill
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ITB paetrawine.com
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michael dietrich

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Re: WTN: Gloria, Mylord, an American gruner

by michael dietrich » Thu Sep 03, 2009 11:32 pm

I have seen and tasted a few GV from the NW such as Daedalus. It shows some of the qualities of Austria but is still young.

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