WTN: 02 Closel and 07 Fougeray de Beauclair

2002 Domaine du Closel Savennières Clos du Papillon
The brown color and apple cider smells had me worried but the palate was much fresher. At first it was sort of generic brawny sweet tannic white wine but with air the particular chenin notes emerged and by the end it was a nice nutty honeyed and full bodied yet mineral version of Savennières. I had some fun with it. But, it is a bit big in the mouth for my tastes and it seems so evolved that one wonders if it is worth aging more bottles?

2007 Domaine Fougeray de Beauclair Bourgogne Rouge
Very polished and ripe and accessible from the first sip. But not in a good way. Because the dark saturated colors and flavors do not match well with the thin texture and the herbal streak running through the middle of the wine. So it ends up coming off as confused and not at all my style. But if you want soft dark flavors for a low price, this may be your thing.

[David M. Bueker]

For the most part I have given up aging Savennieres. It's too much of a crap shoot.

2002 Domaine du Closel Savennières Clos du Papillon
At first it was sort of generic brawny sweet tannic white wine but with air the particular chenin notes emerged and by the end it was a nice nutty honeyed and full bodied yet mineral version of Savennières.

I went through a case of this and was amazed at how much they gained with a few hours of air. Definitely was one to decant in the morning, though perhaps not any more.

I had a 02 Closel Pap this spring, I thought it a tad advanced at first but it seemed to get fresher over several hours. I have one more I'll hold, I really like Savennieres with 12-15 years of age
FdB is always cheap, but I tend only to buy top vineyards in top years ($60 Bonnes Mares for example, not a great BM, but good value). Even then I just buy one bottle to try

I went through a case of this and was amazed at how much they gained with a few hours of air. Definitely was one to decant in the morning, though perhaps not any more.

So I guess you drank yours several years ago?

FdB is always cheap, but I tend only to buy top vineyards in top years ($60 Bonnes Mares for example, not a great BM, but good value). Even then I just buy one bottle to try

I had never heard of them but was browsing through the Burgundy selection in a new shop and one of the salespeople was incredibly bullish about this Bourgogne rouge. I thought I asked a few questions to determine exactly why he liked it so much, but after tasting this I realize I must not have asked the right ones. The way he was talking about Italian wines had led me to believe our palates might be more in sync, so I figured this bottle would be an inexpensive test of his recommendations. Now I see I need more specific questions in the future!

For the most part I have given up aging Savennieres. It's too much of a crap shoot.

I don't think it used to be a crap shoot. Before all these wineries changed their style it seemed like the wines could age forever. But now it does seem to be a whole different ballgame with things changing so quickly. Which is perhaps why I haven't bought much recently.

I went through a case of this and was amazed at how much they gained with a few hours of air. Definitely was one to decant in the morning, though perhaps not any more.

So I guess you drank yours several years ago?

Yes, now I'm on the 2004s, which also require decanting...

[David M. Bueker]

Before all these wineries changed their style it seemed like the wines could age forever.

But did they really change their style, or did the world change (warmer etc) and the wines changed with that.

Before all these wineries changed their style it seemed like the wines could age forever.

But did they really change their style, or did the world change (warmer etc) and the wines changed with that.

Closel definitely changed their style. Starting with the 2002 vintage the 'daughter' took over and moved to pick later, more aging on the lees, battonage, generally going for a riper style. Pierre Bise wines were always a bit big but they have been seeking smoother easier wines throughout the 2000s. In general, a lot of people in the appellation (including newcomers) have been doing that because the old backwards wines were seen as too difficult.

I know I have posted this link before but you can read all about the various politics, personality, and stylistic shifts across the appellation here: http://www.richardkelley.co.uk/savennieres_index.htm

I don't think it used to be a crap shoot. Before all these wineries changed their style it seemed like the wines could age forever. But now it does seem to be a whole different ballgame with things changing so quickly. Which is perhaps why I haven't bought much recently.

Oh, please don't tell me that. A 1976 Closel was magical, tarry and floral. I will have to check in on my 2006 at some point to see how it develops.

Oh, please don't tell me that. A 1976 Closel was magical, tarry and floral. I will have to check in on my 2006 at some point to see how it develops.

I wouldn't wait 30 years.

Rahsaan, when the 2002 Closl Clos du Papillon came out, Pierre Ravanni predicted it would fade after a few years. They were so delicious on release I couldn't keep my hands off them, which turned out to be a good thing as the last one I opened was on its way down.