Chateau Ferry Lacombe is a lovely sprawling vineyard estate near Trets-en-Provence, nestled just north of the coastal range in rolling hills with a startling view of Mont Sainte-Victoire spreading out before it. In this vineyard dedicated to the art and artistry of rosé wines, M. Pinot proudly shows us the precise location of the different varieties and explains the intricacies of regulations and customs that dictate the age-old farming techniques that must coexist with modern agronomy here.
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All the wines are made by the vin de presse method, with the varieties individually lightly pressed and given limited skin contact to extract delicate colors. The different lots are then blended together to achieve the desired wine.
Chateau Ferry Lacombe Haedus Rosé, Côtes de Provence
A blend of Grenache, Cinsault, and Syrah from young vines less than 10 years along the banks of the Arnàves River, this is fairly straight-forward wine, brisk and lively, dry and tart, dominated by light strawberry/cherry aromas and flavors, but with little complexity or nuance. (Haedus is available in a white and a red blend as well.)
Chateau Ferry Lacombe Naos Rosé, Côtes de Provence
Also carrying the Cotes de Provence AOC, but from significantly more mature vines---many up to 40 years old---planted in particular lots heavy in argilo-limestone soils. The high minerality of the soil and age of the vines create a wine of more perfume and more texture. Both more fully-structured than the Haedus, and at the same time fleshier and with more intense berry aromas, the Naos is an interesting comparison to the more simple and youthful Haedus. (Also available in a white and red blend.)
Chateau Ferry Lacombe Fidis Rosé, Sainte Victoire
Allowed the more distinctive designation of Sainte-Victoire (which requires different rules than the more expansive Côtes de Provence designation), the Fidis is primarily a Syrah/Grenache blend. The soil here is calcareous limestone, with higher elevation, and the sappiness of Syrah mingles with the lollipop candy of Grenache to make a delightful rosé, with a noticeable touch of spiciness enlivening the fruit, which ranges from berry to cling peach to tropical mango and passion fruit. (Also available in a red blend.)
Chateau Ferry Lacombe Cascaï Rosé, Cotes de Provence
Monsieur Pinot considers this to be the standard bearer for the tradition and quality of the Chateau, and he’s right to think so, for it is a compelling blend of the oldest vines from ‘selections parcellaires’ chosen to give the greatest complexity possible. First there is meaty and rustic Cinsault, then Syrah from the vineyards around the Roy du Collet woods, and finally the full-blown Grenache from the pebbly soil of Puyloubier at the foot of Mont Sainte-Victoire. Bigger, bolder, more pronounced, with some jammy-rich notes in the nose, this wine can easily stand up to hearty main courses, and would be delightful with the soupe de poissons, cured meats and ripe cheeses of the area. (Also available in a white and red blend)
Chateau Ferry Lacombe Equinoxe Rosé
Monsieur Pinot’s labor of love and statement of excellence, made in small quantities from the most select vineyards, Equinoxe is made with exacting care from only the first and most aromatic trickle of fresh first-press juice of Syrah, Grenache and Cinsault. The perfume is heady and ripe, more passion fruit and mango and peach and poached pear than berry, very complex and intriguing. The flavor is likewise rich and plush, but the wine has impressive structure, and an almost stony acidity that finishes out deliciously tart. Definitely not casual sipping wine, and not so much food wine as a more serious style of rosé that invites contemplation and consideration.