Abadia Retuerta Sardon de Duero Rívola 2001
A bottle I opened for my sister and her new boyfriend Urs. Virtually unchanged since last year, this tastes exactly like what it is, a healthy-looking blend of 80% Tempranillo and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon from a great vintage, grown on limestone-rich soil, aged 10 months in French and American oak, and bottled unfiltered – only that the oak is merely showing in form of a polished rounding-off to tannin and fruit anymore at this stage, and the CS in a faint blackcurranty-syrupy top note that seems to give the wine additional youthfulness. Quite complex, fruity, fairly, minerally, and very long – especially for a wine in this price category (about 10 USD at the time). I had expected greater sympathy for the ancient-styled Rouliers (if only because I could wallow in Henri Bonneau’s wines), but my guests preferred the Rívola. Rating: 89-/88
Henri Bonneau et Fils Vin de Table de France Les Rouliers L 05.06-03/02
A bottle I opened for my sister and her new boyfriend Urs. Officially, of course, VdT is non-vintage. However, the way I read this lot number, it seems to me a blend of 2003 and 2002 that was bottled in May 2006 – which is precisely what this smells and tastes like. Lightly red beet hued purplish ruby-black. Strong garrigue (roasted Provençal herbs such as rosemary and lavender) and a firm Kirsch top note with a touch of raspberry to light beef juice and tobacco, faint graphite dust to pebbly-stony minerality. Firm, only lightly rustic and dry tannin, good acidity, with the earlier red beet touch very well integrated. Delicious declassified Châteauneuf-du-Pape (that is what this is) of which one could easily drink a bottle by oneself. Rating: 89(+/-?)
Charvin Côtes-du-Rhône 2006
Same as always, roasted Provençal lavender, rosemary, thyme, green pepper and bell pepper, Kirsch Schnaps, flinty-pebbly minerality. Nicely dry and mouth-cleansing tannin. Medium body and length. Tasty! Rating: 87(+?)
Château de Fonsalette Côtes-du-Rhône Réservé Syrah 1998
Thanks to Ned. Deep garnet-red, opaque at the center. Huge roasted Provençal herbs and pepper, vine smoke, earthy minerals, and firm lightly evolved fruit, not at all without sweetness. “Extremely smoky”, Kathy said. Fairly full-bodied, this probably contains at least the 14% that are labelled. Big, solid, nicely rustic tannin. Growing longer and fruitier with airing, sweeter, too. Rating: 92(+?)
Daniel & Martha Gantenbein Riesling Spätlese 2007
Thanks to Remo again. Now already with more integrated CO2, so that that minerality, and fruit and spice subtlety all come out better. Now already as complex on the nose as on the palate. Pretty, well-balanced wine which Chansie, Remo’s girlfriend simply loves. Very nice intensity, acidity and soft bitter note to the fruit. Medium length. Christian thought this quite sweet (it is not unusually sweet for a Spätlese, especially not a modern-day one), and we all felt a bit tipsy despite the low 9.5% alcohol. Rating: 89
Tenuta Dell’Ornellaia Vino da Tavola Ornellaia 2006
Opaque purple, red at the rim. Tight green licorice and coconut, clove and cinnamon oak tight blackcurrant and plum, dark coffee and mint chocolate, very minerally especially for Ornellaia (judging from memory, the most minerally ever), powerful and quite long. Touches of vanilla, cherry and caper. One of the most concentrated Ornellaias I know. Impressive alcohol integration given the size. Youthfully tannic, of course, without being at all bitter. Recurring oak spice on the finish. Pretty glycerine. Currently best on the nose, Patrick and Remo said, the latter of whom did not find this approachable enough. Clearly for admirers of the style, extremely modern and polished, but promising. Rating: 93+/94(+?)
Trimbach Riesling Cuvée Frédéric Émile 1997
Deep yellow gold with green reflections. Remains youthful, but is drinking beautifully with some airing. Sea salt, limestone, lime, pistachio, good body, and impressive intensity, balance and length. Glyceric, ripe, dry, equally as fine on its own as with food. Rating: 92+/93?
Villa Contea Dolcetto d'Alba 2001
Thanks to Patrick. Glossy ruby-red, orange at the rim. Glyceric, a bit nutty-oaky (a bit stale like an old rowboat) and fairly high alcohol. Evolved “fruit” (worn out by oak as well?), heavy coffee chocolate. Slightly mean tannin, bit stale and metallic acidity. Rating: 83-
Greetings from Switzerland, David.
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„J'ai gâché vingt ans de mes plus belles années au billard. Si c'était à refaire, je recommencerais.“ – Roger Conti