Woe with white 2002 Lynch Bages

In August of 2008 we had an absolutely lovely half bottle of 2002 Lynch Bages blanc that I had purchased at Park Avenue Liquor in New York two years before. Since the price was relatively modest, I ordered six more half bottles from Park Avenue Liquor and six full bottles from elsewhere (I forget). Over the last several months, we opened four of the six half bottles, and they have all been premoxed. Not egregiously, but enough to short-circuit pleasure. Two nights ago I had some guests coming for dinner, so a few hours before I opened one of the full bottles, hoping that size and different provenance might make a difference. It was premoxed. Angrily I dumped it down the drain and opened a second bottle. Premoxed. Angrily I dumped it down the drain and opened a third bottle. Not premoxed, but musty, and not quite right. I served it anyway. It was potable, but not joyful, and I was left feeling cheated, and feeling guilty for having cheated my (not wine savvy) guests.

Aside from venting, I'd like to note that the three corks looked absolutely flawless. Much as I'd like to blame spongiform havens for bacteria, I got the distinct sense that the first two premoxes and the third on-the-way-to-premox were the victims, not of poor corks, but of poor cellar practices, like hydraulic pumping or nerve-wracking racking or whatever goes on there while we're not looking. Doggone it, if I had my druthers, I would lynch Bages.

[David M. Bueker]

Not that I am a fan of Bordeaux Blanc, but I get served a few now and again. I've never heard or seen the Lynch as being on of the great agers. The two times I have had various vintages (2000 in 2006 or 2007, and a 1990s vintage in 2001 or 2002) they were both clearly on the downhill slide.

This might not be an ager & you may have caught lightning in the bottle with the first one.

Indeed, Bordeaux whites rarely develop well in half-bottle format.

Best
Rogov

Indeed, Bordeaux whites rarely develop well in half-bottle format.

Best
Rogov

But these last ones were all 750s...

Indeed, Bordeaux whites rarely develop well in half-bottle format.

Best
Rogov

But these last ones were all 750s...

That being the case, it surely does sound like a bottling-line problem in this case

Best
Rogov

[David M. Bueker]

Or perhaps they were somewhat mis-handled in the distribution chain.

I'm not a fan of white Medocs overall. But besides possibility of bad winemaking, bad storage, or transport, etc is the possibility of premOx. Those that argue that the cause of PremOx in white Burgundy is corks (and particularly peroxide treatment) have been asked why not other areas? Well, there is some anecdotal evidence of premature age in white Bdx and white Loire. Just a possibility.

I'm not a fan of white Medocs overall. But besides possibility of bad winemaking, bad storage, or transport, etc is the possibility of premOx. Those that argue that the cause of PremOx in white Burgundy is corks (and particularly peroxide treatment) have been asked why not other areas? Well, there is some anecdotal evidence of premature age in white Bdx and white Loire. Just a possibility.

It's quite possible that premox strikes white bordeaux as much as white burgundy in % terms, but since we (in this board, at least) drink so much less of the former, we notice it less. But we drink a fair amount of chenin blanc, and don't seem to see as much incidence of premox there (though there's been a fair amount of discussion about the intentionality, or not, surrounding oxidative older Savennieres).