WTN: A good Hungarian Cabernet Franc

Domaine Gróf Zichy Cabernet Franc Szekszárdi Borvidék Barrique 2003

Baron von Twickel Wine Estate "Gróf Zichy" Cabernet Franc 2003; 14% abv on the bottle; 13,14% abv on the producer's web-site; 5,6g/l acidity; 2,4g/l RS; 21,60€. Since the label has Barrique on it and since the vintage is 2003, I hadn't bought this, though I am a huge fan of the grape. Now that it has been available in the special selection of our alcohol monopoly for months, I was told that I really must try it by someone who knows my preferences, and so I did. I am sorry I didn't purchase it earlier.



Though from an unnaturally warm year, it is obviously Cabernet Franc from the first sniff. It may have darker fruit tones than the Platonic ideal of the grape, but it also has the lovely herbaceous, lifted, refreshing aromas that I want to find in this variety. The Barrique ageing is beginning to be very well integrated as I find its presence only when I look for it: a spicy aroma added to the sexy fruit that reminded some of us of Cheval Blanc! The fruit is still quite primary (but was still a pleasure to sniff), so I would like to see some further development.

It is almost voluptuously fruity and does, sadly, show a bit of heat on the finish (whatever the actual abv) - but those are the only indications of an abnormally hot year. The acidity is pleasantly mouthwatering and counters the voluptuous fruit making the whole very refreshing though I am not usually an admirer of primary fruit. The tannins are soft but noticeable and they also harness the fruit which, I sometimes feel, is about to break free and gallop away. The trial of whether the structure or the fruit prevails makes for an exciting drink. Nice wine.

[David M. Bueker]

Wow. I had no idea. Thank you for continuing to broaden our horizons Otto. Now if I see a Hungarian red I might not be frightened away.

Of course the price (if anything like yours) would frighten me from such a purchase, but that's a whole different issue.

Don't take the pricing as typical - this is from the special selection of Alko, so in addition to our usual monstrous prices there is a further increase. I have tasted some very interesting and well made Hungarian reds in recent years, so I am quite tempted to try out the others we have here, even though their pricing is even more off-putting.

Don't take the pricing as typical - this is from the special selection of Alko, so in addition to our usual monstrous prices there is a further increase. I have tasted some very interesting and well made Hungarian reds in recent years, so I am quite tempted to try out the others we have here, even though their pricing is even more off-putting.

It is often difficult to find good Hungarian wines in this country, especially the reds. Even the better wine shops generally have limited selection and many none at all. And trust me I do look since I have a father-in-law that was born in Hungary. How many bad bottles of bulls blood can one country make and who drinks them all?

No surprises here whatsoever.

I've been touting Hungarian reds for years, and loving them since at least the mid-'90s. Even the really inexpensive ones that we used to get at the LCBO were wonderful spicy table wines. In later years, they became boring and internationalized, much to my chagrin ... though the more exclusive bottlings can and should be tried, IMO.

In fact, there's a Kékfrankos at Vintages right now that I've been eyeing of late. Might just go and get it this weekend.

Hungary makes very good cabernet franc. They've been getting better each year for the past 15 years or so and some are able to hold their own against those of many other regions. Even at the low end, they have a few that aren't bad at all and for the price, they're very good. They also do good cab sauv and merlot. I've not yet had many which can compare with the best from elsewhere, unlike their whites, but certainly they aren't to be dismissed any more.

Kékfrankos IMO should be something that they focus their attention on. It doesn't do so well in every region apparently, but in the Eger region for example, it can make a very good wine. At its best it's medium-bodied with great acidity and a spicy, peppery note that helps lift it out of the ordinary.

The problem with the Hungarian reds is that the best aren't sold in the US and of those that are, the prices don't reflect the "strangeness" to most Americans. When they're on the shelf next to something more familiar and they're not cheaper, the shopper picks up what he or she already knows.