WTN: Champagne, and more Champagne, at 11 Mad

Last night Betsy and I went to Eleven Madison Park for another in their series of Collectors Dinners. Theme was Champagne. Daniel Humm did a really great job with the food, the biggest problem was there was just too much:
Gougeres
Amuse of a lobster bisque with sweet corn
Fruits de Mer- smoked salmon, smoked sturgeon, Peekytoe crab salad, potato salad, Kunamoto oysters (vast quantities, I could have stopped there)
Poached salmon with a horseradish/dill/cucumber sauce
Chicken with summer truffles, purslane, & potatoes
Strawberry shortcake with strawberry sorbet (I don't eat desserts but Betsy loved the sorbet)

Everything was delicious, service was excellent, a very good job.

I brought a mag and a rose, we shared with our table and I did a bit of visiting with others I knew at nearby tables. A pretty good assortment overall:

One wine I neglected to get any info on was the house Champagne they poured as we arrived, before table's wines were opened. No notes, but memory is of a fairly interesting wine, light bodied but with some depth and nutty/sherry tones (not oxidized, more intentional I'd guess).

Our table: 
NV Deutz Brut Classic
Nice NV, biscuits and apples, a little citrus, nice way to start evening. B
 
1990 Pommery Cuvee Louise (from magnum)
I was pleased with how this showed, it was just a bit more mature than I expected.  I would have expected from mag this would be on upswing, I found fully mature though not at all fading. Quiet subdued mousse, yeast biscuits, fresh pear, and a little hint of almond. Nice length. I enjoyed and enjoyed sharing. A-

1996 Pol Roger Rose
A nice bottle, still young, though I don't think it will ever quite match the 90 PR Rose, one of my all time favorite bargains in Champagne. Strawberries and cherries, a little brioche, a more delicately styled rose. Great with salmon. B+
 
1999 Veuve Cliquot (gold label)
Rounder style, applesauce and dough, fresh, not very long but ok. B
 
MV Krug Grande Cuvee
Big, toasty, full apple turnover fruit. Bringer says this was a recent purchase, but it tastes like it has some bottle age. B+
 
From other tables
1985 Charles Heidsieck "Champagne Charlie"
A bit looser/older tasting than a bottle few months ago, citrusy, yeasty, pretty good. B/B+

1981 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Rose
Is 1981 a great Champagne vintage? I dunno, but I really liked this. Just a bit of petillance remaining, some nutty oxidative notes, but underneath a really classy wine. Strawberries, honeycomb, orange zest. Mineral on finish. I'm actually not usually a fan of a lot of age in bubbly, but this was one of my favorites. A-

1996 Pol Roger Winston Churchill
Craig thought this a little sweaty, me -I just liked it, a lot. Young, fresh, Fuji apples, toast, chalky minerality. Needs time but maybe my WOTN. A-/A

NV Vouette et Sorbee "Blanc d'Argile"
(I missed noting vintage, friend tells me he thinks it's labelled NV but all 2004 juice). High acids, zippy, a Mosel (or Savennieres) of a Champagne. Very different from anything else I taste this night. Crisp green apples, minerals. Cool wine. B+

1999  Aubry "La Nombre d'Or" Veteres Vites
If I understand correctly, this contains all SIX legal varieties. I know, we all think there are 3, but apparently there are 3 others grandfathered in. Herbs, apples, green plums, medium bodied. Pretty good,not just a curiosity. B+/B

There was a Selosse that had lost part of label in ice bucket, so unsure of details. Big, lots of toasty notes, nutty yet young. I think a lot of people really loved this, I liked, but not my favorite style. B/B+

There wasn't a wine that I disliked that I tried, luckily Betsy was driving. Fun evening, and 11 Mad staff did a great job.

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency. 

[David M. Bueker]

Color me jealous.

Sounds like a great event. Last year was the first year we haven't been in NY for many years. 11 Mad was our best evening food wise two years ago. Intend to dine there again this fall hopefully.

What is the Collectors Dinner series?

Lou, I think you'll enjoy again. 11 Mad used to be good steady typically Danny Meyer place, but since Humm came (about 3 years ago) I think it's actually one of best places in city, period.

Matt, since slow economy (they didn't say that, but timing fits) they started doing a dinner every month or two in private room upstairs with a wine theme. $75/pp plus tax and tip, no corkage. They did Burg, Piedmont, Piedmont, Riesling, Champagne. It's by email invite, Diane invited us to the Riesling and I signed up then for the list. Paul and a couple others weren't happy with the food (especially portion sizes) with the Piedmont, but it's been very good (and VERY plentiful) last 2 times. Next, they start cycle again with Burg (I think they're choosing based on what would match with what Daniel Humm wants to cook). I'll forward invite (I think Sept)

Lou, I think you'll enjoy again. 11 Mad used to be good steady typically Danny Meyer place, but since Humm came (about 3 years ago) I think it's actually one of best places in city, period.

Matt, since slow economy (they didn't say that, but timing fits) they started doing a dinner every month or two in private room upstairs with a wine theme. $75/pp plus tax and tip, no corkage. They did Burg, Piedmont, Piedmont, Riesling, Champagne. It's by email invite, Diane invited us to the Riesling and I signed up then for the list. Paul and a couple others weren't happy with the food (especially portion sizes) with the Piedmont, but it's been very good (and VERY plentiful) last 2 times. Next, they start cycle again with Burg (I think they're choosing based on what would match with what Daniel Humm wants to cook). I'll forward invite (I think Sept)

Humm was cooking when we were there 2 years ago. Will try to go this year somewhere between 6th and 13th October. We were there with SF Joe great evening.

[Jenise]

Dale, explain how this works. "Collectors Series" didn't immediately trigger the idea that guests actually supplied the wine, but I'm guessing based on the attribution to various tables that this was the case?

Selosse--love that stuff. Also the Aubry.

Jenise,
sorry I wasn't clear in post to Matt. It's a BYO event with a theme and dishes to match. They send menu week before (I switched from a Clos des Goisses to the Pol Roger for my second bottle when I saw the salmon dish, so I could ensure we had a rose). The first time, I was at a table organized by Diane K and another woman, and we emailed wines in advance. This time I was in NH when invite came, just paid for Betsy and I, and took chance on table assignment. Kind of nice, to meet new people. I'd say our tablemates were more foodies (11 Mad regulars) than collectors, the geeky bottles were from other tables with some friends (some ITB). Good thing about carrying a mag you can visit and trade tastes easily!

From Cheryl's notes on eBob it seems the Selosse that I thought well done but not my style was the NV Substance.

One wine I neglected to get any info on was the house Champagne they poured as we arrived, before table's wines were opened. No notes, but memory is of a fairly interesting wine, light bodied but with some depth and nutty/sherry tones (not oxidized, more intentional I'd guess).
 

Aha, it was the NV Champagne Pouillon Brut Vigneron

Great notes, Dale, and it sounded like a fantastic dinner. I was really disappointed to have missed this one - I work late Tuesday nights - and I already had my Champagne picked out before the date was announced, so I was incredibly bummed.

The bringer of the Krug sounds like the couple who sat at my table for the Piedmont dinner. I believe they picked up a bottle of a very young Barolo, and not a producer that I was familiar with, at Wegemans. They are 11 Mad Park lunch regulars and didn't realize that we would be bringing aged Barolo. While they were pleasant tablemates, it was not a good fit.

Did they have enough people to open up both sides of the room?

Diane, I'm sure it's same couple. Humm fanatics, but she doesn't really drink and he bought the Krug at Wegmans. I had to visit Ganzer, Truax, etc to get my geek conversation fix.
Yes, they opened both sides, 5 tables of 6-7. Next is Burg, hope we can both make it!