by Tim York » Tue Jul 28, 2009 2:48 pm
During the stay of my son and grand-daughter, I neglected my wine notes. Here from memory is an attempt to catch up with notes on recent drinks which I cannot recall having reviewed previously.
Niederhäuser Hermansshöhle Riesling Spätlese – 11 – 2002 – Dönnhoff - was delicious showing medium/full body, a round core, gently sweet white fruit with a hint of honey and a degree of creaminess offset by excellent minerals and lively acidity. Ideal for a summer evening with a snack; 17/20. (Am I compounding my recent crime of liking a Loosen Erdener by speaking well of this wine? Some real German wine connoisseurs seem to prefer Dönnhoff nervously young before it develops this round core.)
Enkircher Steffensberg Riesling Spätlese Halbtrocken 2001 – Immich-Batterieberg – Alc. 12% - showed quite a lot of bubbles round the glass and a slight but agreeable prickle on the palate. The sweetness was quite muted and this was an enjoyable but unmemorable Mosel; I recall an Alte Reben trocken 2002 as showing more character; 15/20.
Moselle Luxembougeoise Riesling 2007 – Château de Schengen – Alc. 12.5% - (c. €8) was an enjoyable straightforward dry Riesling with lively acidity and decent fruit and minerals; 15/20+ QPR.
Moselle Luxembourgeoise Stadtbedimus Fels Grand 1er cru Art & Vins No.21 sus Hierzig 2006 – Domaine Vinsmoselle – Alc. 12% was noticeably better than the previous with more body, more demonstrative aromatics, greater complexity and length; 16/20 QPR!!
Chinon Clos de l’Echo 1995 – Couly-Dutheil – Alc. 12.5%. I tried this as a possible candidate for our Loire evening and felt that it didn’t quite make the grade. Medium/light bodied, elegant with that fine tea touch frequent in ageing Loire and a little abrupt in the finish. I was expecting something more substantial from this famous vineyard; 15.5/20.
Chambolle-Musigny Clos du Village 1990 – Antonin Guyon – Alc. 13% - seemed understated at first but, as soon as I got used to the quiet voice, I loved its mature and complex Pinot fruit with its cherry touches enhanced by a hint of candy, excess of which spoils some 1990s and the beautiful acid balance. There was depth, good length and the whole was harmonious and elegant; 17/20.
Campo de Borja Viña Collado 2006 – Bodegas Santo Cristo (a co-operative)– Alc. 13.5% -(€4,25) –was an exemplary entry level Garnacha with medium body showing the typically spicy and anis infused sweet Grenache fruit with a nice savoury tang; 15.5/20 QPR!!
Pétalos Bierzo 2007 – Descendientes de J. Palacios – Alc. 14% - (€11 special price) was a disappointment after the 2006. Its fruit was less brightly focussed and tangy and the oak ageing was much more obvious; quite blandly international; at most 15/20.
Tim York