WTN: Gaja, Chave, Donnhoff, DDC, Soldera, Truchot,Mugneret,+

John hosted our SOBER group last night. As we arrived, some nice salmon canapés awaited, along with the 2002 Donnhoff Schlossbockelheimer Felsenberg Riesling Spatlese. In the discussion of the "official" wines this got lost, but it was an excellent way to start the evening. Stony minerals, fresh cutting acidity, floral, lime fruits. Excellent wine that's drinking extremely well. A-

On to the blind wines

Flight #1
#1 - Light petrol, grapefruit, pears, saline minerality, clean, good length. Not the fruitiest Riesling in the world, but I liked (more than table). 1988 Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg "Fuder 67" Riesling Auslese B+/A-

#2 - Gasoline, weighty fruit, sweet, but corked. 1985 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Lange Goldkapsel

Flight #2

#1 Tarry, red fruit, I was pretty sure it was Piedmont (oops). Seems older than its flightmate, I liked at first but it wasn't doing well in glass, odd clipped finish. 1993 Santa Restituta "Rennina" Brunello di Montalcino - B-

#2 - now this is lovely, though I'm less certain its Barolo (Tim gets Tuscany and eventually producer). Wonderful and long, kirschy (but not overdone) red fruit, mushrooms, earth. 1993 Soldera "Case Basse" Brunello di Montalcino A/A-


Flight #3
#1 What a change from previous flight. Big black plum and cassis nose, I'm pretty certain we're on Right Bank for both of these. Nice fruit, good acidity. I like this, but it does have a bit of a drying finish, and a bit too much cigar ash on end for me to love. Have one of these which I need to put in drink queue. 1978 Domaine de Chevalier(Graves). B

#2 Expansive nose, soft and lush, berries and black plums, nice length. Very very good. 1970 Domaine de Chevalier. B+/A-


We had a bonus blind bottle here, brought by Mark R. Sweet tangerines, lemon, flowers,herb. I guessed a Smaragd Gruner, Mark says no. We didn't come close to getting the 2005 Niellon "Clos St Jean" Chassagne-Montrachet. Much easier to peg it as Burgundy once it was unveiled.
B+

Flight #4 (with an excellent dish of salmon with a salsa of peppers and tomato).
#1 Some differences of opinion here. Some found it overly oxidized, I got some nutty/oxidative notes I would just call mature. Rich pear and hazelnut, a little ginger, a little tired but nice drink on its way down. 1992 Sauzet "Referts" Puligny-Montrachet B+

#2 lemon curds and limes, fresher, lovely, a little pleasantly funky, guesses centered around Meursault. 1992 Overnoy Arbois Pupillin B+/A-

Flight #5
#1 Sweet fruit, earth and mushrooms, Dan called Gevrey for both wines immediately. Nice length, lots of live ahead. 1988 Truchot Charmes-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes B+/A-

#2 A bit more herbal, lots of damp soil, more sweet fruit, mature but not fading.1985 Georges Mugneret Ruchottes-Chambertin B+

Flight #6 (with a nice stew with chicken and sausage)
#1Blackberries and cassis (though others noted blueberries), lively, good finish, quite a flight that this was my second favorite. 1991 Clape Cornas
A-

#2 Floral nose, deep red fruit, pavement, meat, olives, fantastic length, a better bottle of the 1983 Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage than one we had last year. A/A-

Great night, and I was glad to not be driving!

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency. 

 

Great stuff! Did it work to put some of the whites in the middle instead of all in the beginning?

#2 lemon curds and limes, fresher, lovely, a little pleasantly funky, guesses centered around Meursault. 1992 Overnoy Arbois Pupillin B+/A-

Nice to hear that this showed so well.

Does your friend John have ice-cold storage?

I didn't have a problem with order, of course it's a pretty leisurely paced evening with plenty of San Pellegrino. Thinking about it, I think actually the Tuscans fared better after the off-dry wines than a dry white would have.

The Overnoy was a recent acquisition, in Germany I think he said. He was over for auctions or tastings, was served this, and thought it would be a great ringer for a Burg flight (it was). He bought or was given this bottle. I should have noted this was the Chardonnay, not the Savagnin. People were looking for it in US this AM, not available.

Very cool lineup, right from that unofficial starting wine onwards (Felsenberg rocks!). Sorry to hear about the corked 85 Haag. That last flight of Syrahs almost had me drooling. Chave... mmm....

The Overnoy was a recent acquisition, in Germany I think he said. He was over for auctions or tastings, was served this, and thought it would be a great ringer for a Burg flight (it was). He bought or was given this bottle. I should have noted this was the Chardonnay, not the Savagnin..

Indeed. A very interesting ringer. And nice that it showed so well. Unique stuff.

The Overnoy was a recent acquisition, in Germany I think he said. He was over for auctions or tastings, was served this, and thought it would be a great ringer for a Burg flight (it was). He bought or was given this bottle. I should have noted this was the Chardonnay, not the Savagnin..

Indeed. A very interesting ringer. And nice that it showed so well. Unique stuff.

There is some excellent Jura Chard out there. Much more reasonably priced than the Côte d'Or and rarely sins by excess of wood and butter.

There is some excellent Jura Chard out there. Much more reasonably priced than the Côte d'Or and rarely sins by excess of wood and butter.

Oh I know. There and Chablis are where I look for Chardonnay. I've never had one 17 years old however.

There is some excellent Jura Chard out there. Much more reasonably priced than the Côte d'Or and rarely sins by excess of wood and butter.

Oh I know. There and Chablis are where I look for Chardonnay. I've never had one 17 years old however.

This one made a believer out of me. Any other producer names to look for?

This one made a believer out of me. Any other producer names to look for?

All the ones whose red Jura wines you've probably seen should also make a chardonnay. I don't really follow closely myself (although Tim may have more detailed info) but it also depends on style preferences: Rijckaert (more modern), Labet (more traditional), Puffeney, Berthet-Bondet, Mâcle, Tissot...

#2 lemon curds and limes, fresher, lovely, a little pleasantly funky, guesses centered around Meursault. 1992 Overnoy Arbois Pupillin B+/A-

 

Wow...who would have thought (about the aging potential)?

Nice notes, Dale. Was not that enthusiastic about the Donhoff; it got better, but not as complex as I would expect from this producer. 85 points
Gaja was good but nowhere near the quality of the Soldera, and it has to be said, nowhere near the price. 89 points

Loved the Soldera, was absolutely convinced it came from Piedmont. Beautiful wine. 94 points


1992 Overnoy Arbois Pupillin definitely a great surprise, very Burgundian, and worth trying to find. 94 points as an absolute score, but 100 points as the best Burgundy ringer I have ever found.


The Domaine de Chevaliers were both solid, but surprisingly for me, not that memorable. I usually like the old ones, so a tad disappointed. 88 points each.

Truchot Charmes 1988 Superb. Non of teh 1988 atrigency and hard edges, a glorious fragrant big hearted wine with a rich expansive personality. Loved it. 96 points.

Mugneret should on paper have been the better wine, and it was certainly pleasant, but somehow its correctness did not translate as well on the palate as the Truchot. Once I focussed on it a little more, I recognized it as a fine if not great Burgundy, although peaking and possibly showing slight signs of age. 92 points

Clape1990
Cornas may be known as rustic, but this was refined and even a little elegant, but certainly did not compromise on flavors. Great depth, some power and a fairly long finish. Nice wine. 92 points


Chave 1983 was very fine but opened a bottle of the same yesterday which I had hand carried back from the UK, and it was even better. 93 at the tasting, 95 yesterday

I think I enjoyed Donnhoff more because (a) it had been open a bit when I got there and (b) I was drinking out of a normal white wine glass!
Thanks for adding your thoughts. Agree with most, especially the Overnoy as a ringer.