WTN: Chez Maureen

Dinner at Maureen’s was quite a pleasure. Cole and Mary, Bob, and Gesche (my wife) came out to join the crowd.

While milling around and eventually eating pizza we drank the 1998 Dönnhoff Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Spätlese which was a fine feathered thread of slightly herbal-ing riesling although still with plenty of juicy body to support it. Nice relaxed way to begin the evening, although with the main course we switched to two Trimbachs.

Some preferred the 1994 Trimbach Riesling Clos Ste. Hune for the spicy rich ‘complexity’ although I slightly preferred the 1990 Trimbach Riesling Cuvée Frédéric Emile for the firm grip and direct refreshing length (one quote was that ‘length is overrated’ but I can’t really agree). That said, both were offering lots of pleasure and we were all thankful that we didn’t have to ‘choose’.

With cheese came a blind bottle of red wine which was the 1990 Henri Gouges Nuits St. Georges Les St. Georges and despite some funky smells that we never quite identified I liked this wine a lot. Sure it was still waiting for primetime but not at all in the stereotypical tannic Gouges way. It was long and dark and firm and maybe ever-so-slightly chunky but if you swallowed correctly it was also a long thread of silk. I guess one just has to wait for it to all come together!

To end the show and guzzle with dessert the 2001 Muller-Catoir Riesling Auslese Mussbacher Eselshaut was a creamy rich Auslese with juicy botrytis and a fresh structure and nothing at all to complain about so this didn’t last very long…

Nice times!

Sounds fun!

On the subject of "length of finish," I've never cared much about the number of seconds, and when having wine with food, the concept seems to become almost meaningless. Much more important to me is the smoothness of the arc, without precipitate drops along the way. I've often wondered about the finish fetish, where people actually time it and put it in their notes. One used to see that more, not so much anymore.

I really like the 90 CFE, though it was still a bit tight when I last had it couple years ago. Still has a long future. Thanks for notes, sounds like a very nice night

On the subject of "length of finish," I've never cared much about the number of seconds, and when having wine with food, the concept seems to become almost meaningless. Much more important to me is the smoothness of the arc, without precipitate drops along the way. I've often wondered about the finish fetish, where people actually time it and put it in their notes...

I agree that the smoothness of the arc is important but the finish is part of that because it extends the sensation of a harmonious wine that gently trails off. I agree that the timing of the finish in terms of seconds was quite silly, I never really understood that.

I really like the 90 CFE, though it was still a bit tight when I last had it couple years ago. Still has a long future.

I don't have the experience that many other do to debate the aging curves, etc, but I didn't think it was too tight last night (after being decanted) and it was probably my 'favorite' of the the white wines. For my wife on the other hand, it was already too aged and 'sour' and she preferred returning to the juicier Dönnhoff. Such is the variation in palate preferences!

[David M. Bueker]

Rahsaan,

Sounds like your wife and my wife might get along very well. Laura is much fonder of some notable RS in her wines.

From a post elsewhere Maureen thought the '90 CFE was pretty much ready to go.

Now I just have ot wait another 5-10 years for any of my bottles of CFE.

Sounds like your wife and my wife might get along very well. Laura is much fonder of some notable RS in her wines.

Sounds like that dovetails well with the wines you cellar .

But for better or worse, Gesche does not always have consistent palate preferences. Sometimes she finds wines too sweet other times she finds wines too sour. Perhaps it fits too neatly into the stereotype of 'fickle' women but it does seem to depend on her mood. Whereas I am much more constant and more likely to appreciate 'quality' regardless of red/white sweet/sour, etc..

Such is life..

Glad to hear that the '98 Hermannshohle is drinking well. I've got one bottle that I kept telling David I wanted to open in the fall. Quite envious to hear about the CFE and CSH - have only had a couple of Trimbach CFEs and both were pretty tight and unyielding.

Re. the whole business with length - I think it does matter, but certainly not to the extent that people start going on about the exact number of seconds. Between a '45 second' and 'almost a minute' long finish I hardly think it matters - but with a wine that tastes really good and balanced, it's always nice to feel some length and persistence to the flavours.
(That said, I'd really like to see if a person who finds length to be overrated still has the same opinion after a few sips of an FX Smaragd.)

(That said, I'd really like to see if a person who finds length to be overrated still has the same opinion after a few sips of an FX Smaragd.)

Salil, LOL!

Glad to hear that the '98 Hermannshohle is drinking well..

It was nice, although definitely not stunning. And then I don't know what to expect from further aging the wine. We were close to opening the 98 NH Auction Spätlese to compare but people weren't drinking enough as it was.

Um... Donnhoff, CFE, CSH, a frigging '01 Catoir and people weren't drinking that much?

Um... Donnhoff, CFE, CSH, a frigging '01 Catoir and people weren't drinking that much?

Well there was a good dose of Gouges leftover for me to take and finish at home. Plus we were being prudent. So it was all fine, but alas no room for the 98 NH Auction.

Um... Donnhoff, CFE, CSH, a frigging '01 Catoir and people weren't drinking that much?

you calling us lushes????

[David M. Bueker]

Um... Donnhoff, CFE, CSH, a frigging '01 Catoir and people weren't drinking that much?

you calling us lushes????

More like he's astounded that people weren't guzzling straight from the bottles.

Glad to hear that the '98 Hermannshohle is drinking well. I've got one bottle that I kept telling David I wanted to open in the fall.

I've still got quite a few, Salil. I'll save one for you, next time you're in the neighbourhood.

Wish I had more opportunity to enjoy such Trimbachs! I was interested in the note on the Muller-Catoir Mussbacher (Pfalz). While living in Germany I sought mostly M-S-R and Rheingau wines but remember being thrilled with a Mussbacher that I probably just picked up at a grocery store. I have my old note card on it at home--will have to check the producer's name. I don't see Mussbacher wines much and would like to revisit one. (I also like Gouges N-S-G.)

Maureen (or Mo, as I've been calling her for some years now) possesses a terrific palate and, by the sound of it, a wicked cellar to keep it up to speed. The calibre of the wine's served at this dinner look to be of the first order.

One of the few remaining women I'm most desirous to meet (the other being another true friend, JuliaB), I'm sure any chance to wine and dine at her joint would be a most fascinating and rewarding experience.

Thanks for the notes, Rahsaan.

Wish I had more opportunity to enjoy such Trimbachs! I was interested in the note on the Muller-Catoir Mussbacher (Pfalz). While living in Germany I sought mostly M-S-R and Rheingau wines but remember being thrilled with a Mussbacher that I probably just picked up at a grocery store. I have my old note card on it at home--will have to check the producer's name. I don't see Mussbacher wines much and would like to revisit one..

The Muller Catoir was indeed very nice. And those around the table who buy them more often than I do remarked how they can be excellent values in creamy "dessert" wine at the Auslese level (i.e. not needing to pay BA or TBA prices). Fun stuff.

Maureen (or Mo, as I've been calling her for some years now) possesses a terrific palate and, by the sound of it, a wicked cellar to keep it up to speed. The calibre of the wine's served at this dinner look to be of the first order...I'm sure any chance to wine and dine at her joint would be a most fascinating and rewarding experience..

Indeed. Quite the cellar, palate, hospitality, etc..

Of course we all brought plenty of wine to open but she wouldn't let us touch any of it as she regaled us with choices from her cellar. Only Cole's Muller-Catoir managed to get opened.

well, I'm blushing (or maybe just having a hot flash) - you gentlemen are so kind!

David, are you coming this way this summer? Didn't I hear rumors of such?

and I used to punch my older sister when she called me "mo."

well, I'm blushing (or maybe just having a hot flash) - you gentlemen are so kind!

David, are you coming this way this summer? Didn't I hear rumors of such?

and I used to punch my older sister when she called me "mo."

You can punch me anytime you like, Maureen.

Unfortunately, I won't be over this summer.

Maureen (or Mo, as I've been calling her for some years now) possesses a terrific palate and, by the sound of it, a wicked cellar to keep it up to speed. The calibre of the wine's served at this dinner look to be of the first order.

One of the few remaining women I'm most desirous to meet (the other being another true friend, JuliaB), I'm sure any chance to wine and dine at her joint would be a most fascinating and rewarding experience.

Why thank you, David darlin'! Take a tip from a true friend: you'll want to wine and dine at Maureen's joint, then come to my place for coffee after!

JB

PS Welcome back Mo-reen!