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WTN: Montrose, Leasingham, Mordoree et al

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Bill Spohn

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WTN: Montrose, Leasingham, Mordoree et al

by Bill Spohn » Sat Jul 18, 2009 11:16 am

A particularly interesting and varied group of wines at my monthly lunch this time.

2007 Dom. de Reiully Reuilly – not often a ‘new’ (to me) AOC pops up, and even then this small Loire area is known for sauvignon blanc, not what this wine is made from – Pinot Gris! A pale peach colour with virtually no fruit in the nose but soft fruit in the mouth and decent acidity. One member correctly identified it as a pinot gris, which I though was a great call, but we floundered about wondering where it could have come from. Always nice to learn something.

1990 Ch. de Baun Chateau Blanc – another really unusual wine! Made by a small winery near Santa Rosa (Jess Jackson bought it in the mid 90s), this wine is a bend of chardonnay and Symphony. You are to be forgiven for perhaps not knowing Symphony right off – a cross between Grenache Gris and Muscat Alexandria (?!) I found that Ironstone and Sebastiani have also played with it a bit, but have never tasted either. Sweeter slightly herbal nose (others may not be as generous in their description), but great flavour and concentration and finishes much dryer than you’d expect. Interesting wine.

2007 Dom. de la Mordoree Tavel Rose – very nice Tavel – probably my favourite – too bad it is so pricy. Nice pink colour, grapy nose, balanced and clean, there was nothing to criticize on this wine.

2005 Passopisciaro – yes, yet another oddball! The label simply showed the vintage in large print and you had to get out the magnifying glass to see who had made it. This is a Sicilian wine made from Nerello Mascalese (come on, I was giving the guys that didn’t know Symphony a second chance here…I suppose you are going to say you’ve never hung out on Mt. Etna?). Sweet spicy nose, medium colour, and sweet entry with good levels of fruit that became more cherry-like with time in the glass. Good length, good wine.

2005 Dunham Cellars Syrah Artists Label Frenchtown Vd. – a Walla Walla syrah that fit in with the previous wine – dark, with sweet spicy nose, quite a bit of concentration in the mouth, but neither hot nor heavy, and a definite hit of orange that arrived in the nose only after some airing.

1985 Buena Vista Private Reserve Cabernet – I came across this in the cellar while searching for something else and figured it should get popped (I had a back-up). I couldn’t believe that it was my wine when it was poured as it seemed so much darker than I’d expected (but then I had a previous bottle probably 15 years ago). Dark with leather and plums in the nose, and a slight hint of VA, sweet entry but flagging fruit levels (to be expected, I think) smooth and medium long with elevated terminal acidity. The crew got California and one bright boy (Coop) nailed it when I offered the hint that it was the oldest operating California winery.

1989 Ch. Montrose – yum! Dark funky wine with a nose like bretty sausage, good fruit, smooth and supple on palate. this will never be an elegant wine (sort of goes with the territory in St. Estephe) but it s a delicious wine with lots of character. Very good length and lingering finish. I could drink this all day long!

2001 Ferngrove The Sterlings (Frankland River) – this cabernet merlot malbec wine let’s you know your are probably down under, but the Western Australia region produces for me some of the very best wines, which means those that exhibit the least of the characteristics that many North American consumers have been brought up on – not too hot, sweet, or simple. Only slightly sweet nose, without undue heat, followed by a big youthful juicy tannic wine that needs time, and finishes with high enough acidity to make you doubt your initial identification as Australian when tasting blind.

2004 La Spinetta Ca del Pian Barbera D’Asti – not one of the long aging Barberas that ride along on lean acidity! This dark wine had a warmish nose of plums and herbs and good balance. ready now but no rush.

1996 Leasingham Classic Clare Shiraz – I could just start copying ‘dark sweet nose’ from note to note. Slightly spirity, full flavoured with a nice mouth feel, this drinks well now. Time to find my half case (and also the 95 and 96 and maybe do a vertical!)

Meyer Family Port – another new one on me! Germanic lion emblem on a Mendocino winery label in odd squat bottles. Brown colour, with fairly hot, ripe nose, very sweet going in, lemony, and then dryer at the end. Not bad. This one was about 20 years old, although it is a non vintage wine.
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Re: WTN: Montrose, Leasingham, Mordoree et al

by Jenise » Sat Jul 18, 2009 12:00 pm

My notes:

2007 Dom. de Reiully Reuilly – Reticent in a good way, this light, bright, refreshing quaffer was most welcome to this weary traveller after one of the most difficult drives into Vancouver ever. Beyond the train issue at this end, traffic in downtown was just awful. Didn't seem to be anything going on, more like that every inhabitant of Vancouver was driving their car at that moment. Had to wait through four red lights just to get off the Burrard Bridge at Pacific, for instance. Eeeyi! Had no idea pinot gris was made in the Loire Valley--great stumper.

1990 Ch. de Baun Chateau Blanc – I found the nose on this wine spicy-funky, and my first guess was that it contained a bit of gewurz. Not that I'd ever known anyone to blend chardonnay and gewurz--chardonnay had already been identified as one of two grapes in the blend--I haven't, but that explains what turned out to be the Symphony component and as soon as Adam said it was de Baun I was able to guess that grape based on a long ago experience wtih de Baun's 100% sparkling symphony. What a remarkable wine at 19 years old!

2007 Dom. de la Mordoree Tavel Rose – One of the darker, blue-er Tavels I've ever had. Excellent.

2005 Passopisciaro – The label on this wine looked like it had been printed at a penal colony. And the wine tasted like a late 90's Burgundy of good breeding. That is wasn't, and that instead it was a recently made wine from a warm vintage in Sicility of all places--mindblowing. A real beaut, and another great stumper.

2005 Dunham Cellars Artists Label Syrah Frenchtown Vd. – My wine, and I added the words "Artists Label" to your description because for Dunham it's like the stripe in Blue Mountain wines, the Artist Labelled wines being their top offerings and rarely availalble outside the winery due to limited quantities. Fell in total love with this wine--I who don't care that much for domestic syrah--during the Spring barrel tasting for it's lithe, spicy, complex and fragrant nose--the oranges you mention, plus cloves and lavendar. It's very much in league with the kind of syrah that Cayuse is getting mobbed for producing. Big big kudos to Dunham for recognizing that this vineyard had produced something very special and bottling it separate from the heavier Lewis fruit.

1985 Buena Vista Private Reserve Cabernet – What you said. And I didn't realize that Buena Vista was the oldest winery in California, though I do recognize it as being one of those older names along with Christian Brothers, the original Inglenook, Fetzer and a few others that no longer exist.

1989 Ch. Montrose – Again, what you said.

2001 Ferngrove The Sterlings (Frankland River) – It was cab shiraz? I thought George said it was about 45% each merlot and cabernet with the last 10% being malbec or cab franc? Anyway, first impression: very sweet, very acidic. One doesn't usually encounter so much of both in the same wine with this kind of complexity, so when it was revealed to be a western Australian wine all finally made sense. My first Frankland River wine--I've read that this area produces wines of superb quality, and I really enjoyed finding that out first hand.

2004 La Spinetta Ca del Pian Barbera D’Asti – Very modern wine with black cherry and plummy fruit and a sturdy oak backbone. Very similar to another modern style Barbera d'Asti I've owned from Monte. Excellent at being what it is, but these wines always surprise me with their disguised origins.

1996 Leasingham Classic Clare Shiraz – Good shiraz, shows well now.

Meyer Family Port – A true fortified port-style wine from a member ofthe Silver Oak family that I frankly was unaware of. Excellent stuff--your description's spot on, and I liked it for that bright, lemony finish.

Great lunch, thanks.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: WTN: Montrose, Leasingham, Mordoree et al

by Bill Spohn » Sat Jul 18, 2009 12:18 pm

Found my note on Sterlings - 46% merlot, 46% cab sauv, 9% malbec. Later versions added shiraz
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Re: WTN: Montrose, Leasingham, Mordoree et al

by Jenise » Sat Jul 18, 2009 1:55 pm

Hey, I checked into the Meyer Family Port. Learned, and I don't think was revealed yesterday, that the grape base is OV Zinfandel. Also, the winery also produces some table wines, in particular a syrah they seem quite proud of. Price on the port is $35 for the 500 ml or $220 for a 3 liter. Oddly, nothing in between.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: WTN: Montrose, Leasingham, Mordoree et al

by Salil » Sat Jul 18, 2009 2:19 pm

Nice lineup! Frankland River's producing some really interesting wines. Frankland Estate seems to be the most consistent/best established producer there - the Bordeaux blends and Shiraz I've had from them have been really good, well structured with good acid and none of that heat or sweetness you get from some of the warmer regions in Aus. That said - it's worth looking out for a bottle of Frankland Estate's Riesling from that area - they're making IMO some of Australia's best bone dry Riesling and it's fantastic (and really well priced).

Nice to hear about the 96 Leasingham, that's an estate I really like. Their '96 Classic Clare Cabernet is freaking amazing - in a blind Aussie Cab themed tasting with my old tasting group in Chicago a year ago, it blew the doors off a bunch of much higher priced/rated wines like Bin 707, Dalwhinnie, Greenock Roennfeldt Road and d'Arenberg. Shame that some of their more recent wines have been a little on the sweet or oaky side.
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Re: WTN: Montrose, Leasingham, Mordoree et al

by Bill Spohn » Sat Jul 18, 2009 3:11 pm

It is hard to think of an Aussie wine that hasn't gone ovber the top in the vintages after 2002.

If I want syrup, I'll have a glass of Benylin.

I have the 95 Leasingham Cab - which I think I better tuck into soon.

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