WTN: Russian River Valley Pinots: Signs of Maturation?

There are sure and certain signs of maturity in the Russian River Valley these days.


I was at the Rutherford Grill last weekend with some Pinot-loving friends, and had occasion to try two different Pinot Noirs from the Russian River Valley. Both were 2006. It was an interesting comparison, as one wine was from an icon of the RRV and another was sourced from the RRV but apparently made over in St. Helena, in that valley to the east of Sonoma.


It's cold in them thar' rollin' hills---especially out close to the coast. And that makes for good Pinot Noir. Whether a Single Vineyard in a special location, or a judicious blend of different sources to attain a particular stylistic expression, the Russian River Valley is continuing to mature and develop as a prime area for Pinot Noir in the New World.



The Terra Valentine RRV 2006---made in St. Helena, but purportedly from three different vineyard sources in the RRV---was surprisingly lean, tart and focused for its source. Winemaker style or the appearance of vineyard maturity? Hard to say from such little data, but I’ll choose to interpret this as a sign that the RRV might be reaching the point where it’s less about show and more about substance.


This may be a yearning on my part for more balanced wines and less of the extravaganzas of gobbiness that have been the rage for the last several years, but then, I am an incurable optimist.


Mind you, the Terra Valentine would never be mistaken for a Burgundian—and neither should it be, for it isn’t. It’s very much a Russian River Valley Pinot in that it has some succulent fruit---black cherries, mostly---with some cola and a touch of spiciness. So it is wine of a place, but more restrained, less overly perfumed and jammy than has been the norm, and very much more pleasantly drinkable (as in, you could imagine a second glass, a thing unimaginable in some of the more egregious examples of type). As I said, a hopeful sign.


The second wine, Merry Edwards Coopersmith Vineyard RRV 2006, was built on a markedly bigger frame. Ms. Edwards has never been shy in her style, and she has focused on some vineyards that give fruit that respond to her desires, and this particular vineyard is close to her vinous heart. All in the family, so to speak. The Coopersmith pushes closer to the big, strapping, audacious style---but still, thankfully, shows careful restraint. No jam here, and certainly no “Pinot Syrah” either; simply bold, spicy (think clove and allspice) and tart cranberry/cherry fruit wrapped around a sturdy, acidic structure. Velvety soft texture as well, which adds to the drinkability of this very impressive Pinot.


So maybe we’re entering a lovely new era for RRV Pinot, where excess and aggrandizement aren’t necessarily the order of the day, and where a maturation of style---either from maturing vineyards or from maturing winemakers---is more the norm?


As I said, I’m an optimist.
http://www.violentfermentation.blogspot.com

While visiting McMinnville, OR in May, I tasted several PNs from that area and I had a definite preference for the 2006s. I realize that it's a few hundred miles north of the RRV, but perhaps the West Coast weather that year was similar.

While visiting McMinnville, OR in May, I tasted several PNs from that area and I had a definite preference for the 2006s. I realize that it's a few hundred miles north of the RRV, but perhaps the West Coast weather that year was similar.

Hey, Howie---I was in McMinnville yesterday! (And will be back again soon.)

I'm sure there are some vintage similarities, but there is, as you point out, a whole lot of difference from the Russian River Valley to the middle Willamette.

Not least because the RRV is right on the coast, and can be herkin' cold in many spots (like in where Merry Edwards likes to source her grapes), whereas the Willamette is less marin-influenced and more of a semi-continental climate. So two very different places; hard to draw parallels sometimes.

But I sure agree with you: I am liking the 2006 Oregon Pinots too. Mostly, I'll admit, because that's what I'm being offered. You know, "love the one you're with."

Hey, Howie---I was in McMinnville yesterday! (And will be back again soon.)

So was I and so will I.

I'm liking the '06 PNs from RRV too. So much that it's hard to keep them to see what's going to happen.
I was very much taken by a bottle of Pellegrini "Olivet Lane Estate" PN '06 Tuesday night. Clear dark raspberry color, lots of bright fruit, nice acid balance, by no means overripe or plummy. I don't think it's a wine for the ages, but over the next 5 years or so it should be really enjoyable.
And alcohol in area wines has dropped noticeably in the last several years. This was 14.1%. I paid more than I usually do, $36, for a couple of bottles.
Pellegrini's vineyards are just across a little draw from Joseph Swan's. I couldn't attest to microclimate without living there, a few hundred yards can make a difference in how the fog drifts.

On '06 RRV, I was very pleasantly surprised by the Peay Scallop Shelf, to which I was first introduced by the wine list at Passion Fish (Pacific Grove/Monterey--great restarant and list, if you don't know it). Beautiful deep red color and velvety mouthfeel, really opened up in the glass as time went on, with earthy notes, black fruits and other complexity coming forward. Well-balanced, a treat.
Yes, I think something new is happening up there, and thanks for bringing the first set of producers to my attention.

Josh

There is also a Rutherford Grill in Napa (valley to your east) but the natives such as myself really don't patronize it, except maybe every blue moon. We would have a problem understanding the palates of anyone who would choose to eat there of their own volition. Rutherford Grill is know for their very large portions of mediocre food. Maybe the standard in the valley to our west is a totally different one and not one we're familiar with?

There is also a Rutherford Grill in Napa (valley to your east) but the natives such as myself really don't patronize it, except maybe every blue moon. We would have a problem understanding the palates of anyone who would choose to eat there of their own volition. Rutherford Grill is know for their very large portions of mediocre food. Maybe the standard in the valley to our west is a totally different one and not one we're familiar with?

Hey, I was there for the cornbread!

Actually, I was there because the other couple like the place, and it was their call. Actually, the food I had was pretty good. Thai-style steak and noodle salad; good, but not good with the wines, sadly. Too much heat; wiped out the Pinot.

Lots of business there---must be all the tourists flocking in, eh? Keeps them away from the good places where the locals go, I suppose.

So you spurn our food, but you'll happily drink our wine?

There is also a Rutherford Grill in Napa (valley to your east) but the natives such as myself really don't patronize it, except maybe every blue moon. We would have a problem understanding the palates of anyone who would choose to eat there of their own volition. Rutherford Grill is know for their very large portions of mediocre food. Maybe the standard in the valley to our west is a totally different one and not one we're familiar with?

Lots of business there---must be all the tourists flocking in, eh? Keeps them away from the good places where the locals go, I suppose.

So you spurn our food, but you'll happily drink our wine?

Actually the Rutherford Grill does a big business here in Napa. OK food, never anything great, but lots of it at a reasonable price.
It pains me to say so but I much prefer your wine to The Rutherford Grill. But what can I do having good taste