WTN: 1986 Chambert-Marbuzet

[Jenise]

We opened a Bordeaux I rarely see mentioned in these circles, a 1986 Chambert-Marbuzet (Ste. Estephe) to accompany a Bastille Day grilled rib eye with a salad of Jerusalem artichokes, potato, green onion and raw chard, and were quite impressed. It's in a very good place for a modest producer in a great year: black cherry, raspberry and plum fruit, tobacco, dried roses, allspice and just a little band-aid slow-dance their way across the palate in a seamless, silky presentation of resolved tannins and relaxed acidity. No need to rush, but the wine's not going to improve from here and if I had other bottles I'd probably be looking to drink them sooner than later while the bigger '86's continue resting.

Thanks, Jenise.

I am slowly gravitating to finding St-Esteph to be my favorite Bordeaux appellation. For years, I have asked myself which I like best. They are all wonderful and have such beguiling indicators of their respective typicities. I like the delicacy and intellectually acetic interest of St-Esteph. There is a is a suggestion of struggle in their expression with at the same time a hedonistic celebration of the effort - or somesuch.

Sounds pretty nice. I like '86 as a vintage, but it can be really iffy on lower levels. Whole lot of wines with just tannins left. But also a lot of wines that weren't expensive and really rock (Meyney, Sociando, Talbot) as well as some truly great wines (R-Segla, Margaux, Mouton, etc).

Covert, the delicacy of St Estephe?

[Jenise]

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Thanks, Jenise.

I am slowly gravitating to finding St-Esteph to be my favorite Bordeaux appellation. For years, I have asked myself which I like best. They are all wonderful and have such beguiling indicators of their respective typicities. I like the delicacy and intellectually acetic interest of St-Esteph. There is a is a suggestion of struggle in their expression with at the same time a hedonistic celebration of the effort - or somesuch.

[Jenise]

Oh crap. I was just about finished with a thoughtful reply to both of you when the phone rang, and while I was on the phone my Siamese, Bob Junior, managed to somehow erase that and create a whole new post for you consisting entirely of the letter 'n', and then submit it! Please excuse that.

Covert, like Dale, I'm a little surprised by the word delicacy used for Ste. Estephes. I find it to be one of the heavier handed appellations. But it IS the appellation most likely to deliver that funky-earthy thing you love, so your ardor is entirely understandable.

Dale, add this one to the list with the Meyneys etc. I bought it (on Winebid, where I know you shop too) after being impressed by a couple '83's, which were good but much lighter and more advanced, almost more like old burgundies than old bordeauxs, if that makes any sense. It's otherwise a producer I have zero experience with.

[David M. Bueker]

I've never even heard of Chambert-Marbuzet. I'll just assume some historical relation to the other Marbuzet & a reasonable proximity.

As far as St. Estephe, that's the one commune where I expect to have my mouth ripped apart by tannin about 90% of the time. I would never associate delicacy with St. Estephe. Now I might associate "ascetic" with St. Estephe, if only because they don't give a whole lot of pleasure when youg, at least when made in a more traditional manner. Maybe drinking a young wine from St. Estephe can be considered some sort of palate mortificaiton.

I'm a little surprised by the word delicacy used for Ste. Estephes. I find it to be one of the heavier handed appellations. But it IS the appellation most likely to deliver that funky-earthy thing you love, so your ardor is entirely understandable.

The intricate, complex interest exposed by the bare soil nature of the northern clime appellation conjures the term for me. Delicacy of a farm girl who is so thin to almost be stringy, scratching out but declaring the pride her existence and thoughts, with few layers to get through to reach her soul. My wife is like that. A little girl living on a farm but drove a red and white '60 Corvette. Some men (especially Italians) might call her a B-buster, but she is most delicate when you get to know her. Hard to explain. I calls them as I sees them.

Delicate? Rarely.

Mouth ripping? Never, unless you are drinking much too young.

FWIW, even the formerly hard and unyielding 1986s are coming around, some of them surprisingly so.

I think I've only had this particular wine once, and it is a lower range sort of forgettable house, but the fact that the wine showed so well is commendable. I wouldn't go out and serch for more vintages though. Generally a fair bet for early drinking; the nature of the 1986 vintage saved it in this case, I think, otherwise you wouldn't get them holding nearly so long.

[David M. Bueker]

Mouth ripping? Never, unless you are drinking much too young.

If only I had any St. Estephe wines that were well aged.

Mouth ripping? Never, unless you are drinking much too young.

If only I had any St. Estephe wines that were well aged.

Patience, Grasshopper!

And if you want them, look for things like the 75 Calon Segur, 89 or 90 Cos Labory, 86 Haut Marbuzet, 82, 86 or 89 Meyney............cheap like borscht and ready to roll.

And if you want them, look for things like the 75 Calon Segur, 89 or 90 Cos Labory, 86 Haut Marbuzet, 82, 86 or 89 Meyney............cheap like borscht and ready to roll.

I drank a '99 Calon Segur last weekend. It was stunningly lovely and, yes, delicate. But maybe coming from Upstate New York my idea of delicacy is different from others'.

No, the 99 Calon is uncharacteristically light. Try the vintages on either side of it and if you can honestly say that they are elegant, I'll put you down as one of those guys that can eat a box of nails before breakfast.

[Jenise]

I think I've only had this particular wine once, and it is a lower range sort of forgettable house, but the fact that the wine showed so well is commendable. I wouldn't go out and serch for more vintages though.

No plans to. This was one of those wines that I picked up at auction to finish off a case. No other bidders for the reasons you mention, and cheap--I think I paid $20 for it. Since the '83 had been so good, it was worth taking a chance on.

Ok, Ms. Stone.. just bid for one... what other '86s do you like??

[Jenise]

Ok, Ms. Stone.. just bid for one... what other '86s do you like??

Well, what I have in my cellar is: Grand Puy Lacoste, Mouton, Pontet Canet, Gruaud Larose and Meyney. All are great. Also have a Smith Haut Lafite that I have not yet tasted, and I've had and enjoyed Lafite, Talbot and Chasse Spleen. Probably had others but can't remember them off the top of my head right now. Oh, we did have a Soutard which Bob immediately renamed F*tard, so you know how good that wasn't.

Grand Puy Lacoste, Mouton, Pontet Canet, Gruaud Larose and Meyney. All are great. Also have a Smith Haut Lafite that I have not yet tasted, and I've had and enjoyed Lafite, Talbot and Chasse Spleen. Probably had others but can't remember them off the top of my head right now. Oh, we did have a Soutard which Bob immediately renamed F*tard, so you know how good that wasn't.

Nice list. Have you had the Pontet Canet? Not great rep that period, but I've enjoyed the '82. Mouton, Lafite, and Margaux are great, and the Cordier trio great values.
Not surprised the Soutard wasn't good. First off, I think '86 is much better in Medoc than on Right Bank. Soutard makes very old school, hard, need a lot of time St Emilion. When you combine the house style with the tannic vintage style, not a recipe for success. But I like Soutard at 20+ years in ripe vintages.

I have 21 different 86s, but they do not include Soutard, of which I have only the 89. (And Jenise - thanks for the list of your 86s - may come in handy when I do an 86 blind tasting....)

I have generally not yet started to drink my 86s yet.

[Jenise]

Nice list. Have you had the Pontet Canet? Not great rep that period, but I've enjoyed the '82. Mouton, Lafite, and Margaux are great, and the Cordier trio great values.

Not surprised the Soutard wasn't good. First off, I think '86 is much better in Medoc than on Right Bank. Soutard makes very old school, hard, need a lot of time St Emilion. When you combine the house style with the tannic vintage style, not a recipe for success. But I like Soutard at 20+ years in ripe vintages.

Yes re the Pontet, and I liked it quite a bit but thought it would continue to improve. '86 is our anniversary year so we've nibbled away at these quite a bit--and it's why I've found it entertaining to pick up lesser/iffier producers at auction. The fact that there have been more hits than misses, not to mention that we have an ongoing need to both celebrate that year AND keep our hands off those fabulous Moutons, only encourages further risk-taking, though it pains my friend Bill Spohn to watch me do it.