WTN: Heitz, Brunello, Raymond, Bandol, Trilogy

At Joe and Donna's. Outstanding food-great potluck!

Casanuova delle Cerbaie Brunello di Montalcino 1999. This winery has received rave reviews in the past, and I was anticipating a really nice Sangiovese. Not sure if it was closed down or if it got lost in the other wines or what, but I found it thin, insipid, not very interesting, and tannic. Much prefer Felsina, Fontodi, etc. 81 points

1998 Borgogno Barolo. Much preferred this. Still in a very awkward state, perhaps, but nice rose hips, earth, red cherry fruit. Some tannins, but very drinkable. 87 points.

2000 Heitz "Martha's Vineyard" (from a magnum) I know these are very young vines and I know this vintage got panned, but this was wine of the night for me. Mint, earth, balanced alcohol and tannins, earth, earth, earth, black cassis fruit. I've never had a chance to try the grand vintages of the past, but I am in love. 94 points.

2001 and 2002 Raymond Generations. Consensus favorites. I missed the 2001, the 2002 I did not like as much as the Heitz (too porty)

2001 Chateau La Rouviere Bandol. Now this, tasted at the end of the night, was quite nice. Smooth, rich mouthfeel (but good balancing acidity). Black plum and fig, with earth and a hint of garrigue. Very nice wine! 89 points.

2001 Domaine Etxegaya "Cuvee Lehengoa" This Basque Tannat-based wine, on the other hand, was either dead or not very good to begin with. Thin, sour, insipid, tired. 78.

1998 Eileen Hardy Shiraz Southeast Australia. Dodged the bullet on this one, as the cork totally disintegrated. This was my second wine of the night. I've read the Australians acidify many of their wines? I'm not sure i find this manipulative technique a problem, as I sorta like the blast of powerful acidity present here. Excellent fruit and earthy Shiraz flavors, this was outstanding. My one caveat is that Tower Estate Hunter Valley provides similar pleasure at half the price. 91 points.

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At WineStyles Sunday

2003 Chateau Dassault Saint Emilion Grande Cru Classe. Extremely extraced hot year Bordeaux, with stewed black fruit, a bit of portyness/weird acid notes on the nose. Also a roasted/charred note that I'm not certain comes from either the fruit or the oak treatment. Not much Bordeaux typicite. 83 points. A quaffable merlot, but not my favorite. We still agreed that this is more drinkable than many California merlots in its price range ($20s)

2003 Chateau La Grande Clotte St Emillion satelite. Bottle signed by the infamous M. Rolland! less over-extracted than the Dassault, nice fruit and no charred notes. 86 points-Very nice for $18!

2006 Rafanelli Cabernet Sauvignon. Dry Creek Valley. Very odd wine. No typical California Cab character. Quite green, almost jalapeno juice and mint, but the grapes were very ripe and the alcohol was skirting 15%. Beau loves Rafanelli...maybe it's a case of waiting patiently for a few years? Not sure how to score such a young, raw wine.

2007 Rafanelli Zinfandel. Not a favorite. Thin, cherry koolaid flavor. Reminded me of Rombauer Zinfandel in some vintages, but maybe even thinner. No thanks. 80 points.

2003 Flora Springs Trilogy. From a magnum. Quite green, perhaps showing the difficult year and high percentage? of greenish Cab Franc? This probably would be better in two years?

[David M. Bueker]

Love the Heitz. They have never conceeded to the new style of California Cabernet, and I am thankful for that.

Brian
Debates abound re: acidification, not all without agendas!

Yes acidification can occur, just as chaptalisation can occur in Europe (and indeed I found out recently that acidification can also be employed in Europe, but effectively not together with chaptalisation). There are producers who never do it, some who only do it in extreme circumstances or who always seek to minimise additions. Others are more comfortable with it and expect to acidify in most vintages (I hear that the Eileen Hardy falls into the category, but that's 2nd hand info so don't treat it as gospel). Winemaking opinion seems to favour addition as early as possible, to avoid the acidity sticking out.

Bottom line is you liked it, so that's the main thing!

regards

Ian

Brian
Debates abound re: acidification, not all without agendas!

Yes acidification can occur, just as chaptalisation can occur in Europe (and indeed I found out recently that acidification can also be employed in Europe, but effectively not together with chaptalisation). There are producers who never do it, some who only do it in extreme circumstances or who always seek to minimise additions. Others are more comfortable with it and expect to acidify in most vintages (I hear that the Eileen Hardy falls into the category, but that's 2nd hand info so don't treat it as gospel). Winemaking opinion seems to favour addition as early as possible, to avoid the acidity sticking out.

Bottom line is you liked it, so that's the main thing!

regards

Ian

Well, when discussed in a recent Decanter, many of the Aussies interviewed responded, "Ah, the taste of home."

If I had to pick a number one criterion, among all the various elements of enjoyable wine, that is most important to me (in most cases), it is refreshing acidity. Most of my favorite cabs and Bordeaux recently have had this acidity, even sticking out a bit. Mayacamas 1995, Kathryn Kennedy 2003, Ch. Angelus 2001, heck, believe it or not, even the 2002 Mondavi Oakville cab that we enjoyed so much had that juicy, high toned, but not stewed acidity!

My first reaction is that you were early on the Brunello, but reading through you TN, have to conclude that it was never going anywhere. Too bad.

My first reaction is that you were early on the Brunello, but reading through you TN, have to conclude that it was never going anywhere. Too bad.

Not even a storage issue here, sadly. This came from off-site storage that is pretty much perfect temp and humidity. It was a wine missing in action.