2006 Eric Texier Cotes du Rhone Brezeme Domaine de Pergault V.V. 12.5%
Cork is natural, but seems covered by some kind of glossy varnish. Wonder if this is an attempt to seal the cork so it won't contaminate the wine, an idea that might backfire if it creates the slipperiness of synthetics... Bottleneck nose is closed, so into the decanter it goes, for two hours. Aromas remain subdued in the glass, with dark cherry and smoked meat making reluctant appearances, taking a bow, and then running. Mouthfeel is impressively puckering, from a one-two of lively tannins and bracing acidity. Friut is there and lovely, but needs to be coaxed with significant swirl & gargle, revealing homeopathic doses of chocolate, iron and vanilla bean. Classy, but closed for business. Needs a few, perhaps several, years of slumber.
After I pulled back the analytic dogs and just started downing it with dinner, it became absolutely delicious, even in its sleep. Like a succulent, briny juice. But at just shy of $40, it's too expensive for a quaffer. Marcia found it too acidic to continue drinking after the sweetness of dessert (which I didn't have, so was happy to have more than my fair share).
Thinking about yesterday's exchange about buzz/hype, perhaps there is something ideological to it. These Texier wines are undoubtedly good, but in the Manichean battle between good and evil, the former need a handful of "natural" producers with a pro-acid bias to stand against the massed forces of the international style, low acid, high alcohol, super-mature, Parkerized, watchamacalit, bla bla blas. Just as the latter are demonized, the former need to be "angelized."