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WTN: A nice Californian Chardonnay

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WTN: A nice Californian Chardonnay

by Saina » Wed Jul 08, 2009 3:15 pm

  • 2007 Marimar Torres Chardonnay Acero Don Miguel Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley (7/8/2009)
    14,2% abv; unoaked (the name Acero comes from the Spanish for steel); 28,80€. I often enjoy Chardonnay when it doesn't see oak so I was interested in trying this rare, unoaked Californian. Green-gold. The scent starts out with a lovely, bright citrus aroma - limes and general greenness in fruit aromas, though it certainly has no lack of ripeness! Quite on the contrary, if anything is bothersome it is the ripeness and resulting high alcohol which shows as slight heat - it isn't off-putting in its strength, but I would enjoy it more with less.

    Image

    After an hour or two the malolactic scents come forward and the initial brightness is somewhat dimmed. Also the fruit shows more sweet, but it does retain its stony minerality and the charming citrus and green apple aromas. Despite being a full bodied wine, this is racy. Very nice, except for the slight heat and the price. This bottle seemed to have the concentration and structure to age for a few years - is this bottling known to age well in the near or mid term?
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Re: WTN: A nice Californian Chardonnay

by Lou Kessler » Wed Jul 08, 2009 7:48 pm

Usually these chards will take a couple of years of age without any problem.
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Re: WTN: A nice Californian Chardonnay

by Saina » Thu Jul 09, 2009 3:42 pm

Lou Kessler wrote:Usually these chards will take a couple of years of age without any problem.


Good to know! BTW, who else than Clos Pepe Estate and Marimar make unoaked but serious Chardonnay in the US?
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Re: WTN: A nice Californian Chardonnay

by John Treder » Thu Jul 09, 2009 10:40 pm

It's hard to find a "serious" unoaked Chard in California, and that's too bad. Hawkes, a new brand in the Alexander Valley, makes a very good Chard that's aged in "neutral" oak, and it fits in the less oaky half of oaked Chablis. Joseph Swan ages in a mixture of new French and neutral oak. It is, of course, much riper than Chablis, but it's maybe at about the 2/3 point in the Chablis spectrum.

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Re: WTN: A nice Californian Chardonnay

by Mark Lipton » Fri Jul 10, 2009 1:44 am

Otto Nieminen wrote:
Lou Kessler wrote:Usually these chards will take a couple of years of age without any problem.


Good to know! BTW, who else than Clos Pepe Estate and Marimar make unoaked but serious Chardonnay in the US?


Chehalem in Oregon makes an "INOX" Chardonnay which, as the name implies, sees no oak in its elevage.

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Re: WTN: A nice Californian Chardonnay

by Marshall Gelb » Sat Jul 11, 2009 4:01 pm

Otto; You might try Melville's INOX as well.


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Re: WTN: A nice Californian Chardonnay

by David M. Bueker » Sat Jul 11, 2009 4:31 pm

The Inox is very nice.

Glad to see you around Marshall.
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Re: WTN: A nice Californian Chardonnay

by ChefJCarey » Sat Jul 11, 2009 8:22 pm

Many Oregon winemakers are now making unoaked chards.
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Re: WTN: A nice Californian Chardonnay

by Howie Hart » Sat Jul 11, 2009 8:31 pm

ChefJCarey wrote:Many Oregon winemakers are now making unoaked chards.
As are some small wineries in NY State and Ontario.
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Re: WTN: A nice Californian Chardonnay

by Victor de la Serna » Sun Jul 12, 2009 5:49 am

I know that mentioning non-French, European chardonnay is seriously politically incorrect, but Enate 234 (DO Somontano) is, for around 8 euros a bottle in Europe, a wonderfully refreshing chard - no oak at all - and only 13.5 percent alcohol, Otto! (BTW, Marimar Torres is Spanish too...)
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Re: WTN: A nice Californian Chardonnay

by Hoke » Sun Jul 12, 2009 11:49 am

Now that Victor has opened the floodgates, Australia makes a few non-oaked Chardonnays as well.

Although you probably won't know beforehand, Chardonnay that has been subjected to some aging on the lees, with stirring, can be far more interesting than simple Chardonnay that goes 'from the tank to the bank", as they say.

Chardonnay, left alone, I often find not that interesting. It's not an aromatic grape, and without manipulation often shows simple apple and citrus fruit at best, with relatively low acidity. I believe that's why much of the Chardonnay around the world goes through some form of manipulation---barrel fermentation, barrel aging, oak chips, intensive malo, lees aging, etc. Because it makes it more interesting wine.

Of course, you could always look for other varieties that respond better to stainless steel/concrete and usually don't need oak or another manipulation---say a high aromatic, high acid variety, like, oh, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Gruner Veltliner, and let those poor Chardonnay grapes quietly put on some trappings and frippery to make themselves look a little better. :wink:

It's a cold, cruel competitive world out there on the market. :mrgreen:
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Re: WTN: A nice Californian Chardonnay

by Victor de la Serna » Sun Jul 12, 2009 11:53 am

Hoke wrote:Australia makes a few non-oaked Chardonnays as well.

Oh, but Australian chardonnay is quite politically correct! It is not European, after all...
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Re: WTN: A nice Californian Chardonnay

by Oswaldo Costa » Sun Jul 12, 2009 11:55 am

I totally agree with Hoke. Because chardonnay has so much name appeal, there are plenty of unoaked versions for pool-side sipping that make absolutely no sense for this grape. Paradoxically, it is precisely this relative "blandness" that makes it a good vehicle for terroir. In more aromatic grapes, terroir can still show, but has to compete with intrinsic characteristics.
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Re: WTN: A nice Californian Chardonnay

by Victor de la Serna » Sun Jul 12, 2009 12:28 pm

Oswaldo Costa wrote:there are plenty of unoaked versions for pool-side sipping that make absolutely no sense for this grape.

Well, I was only commenting on 8-euro chardonnay, although of course the Marimar costs quite a bit more. And of course I'm keenly aware of the lack of a marked varietal aromatic profile in chardonnay if compared with riesling, muscat, sauvignon blanc, GV or gewürztraminer. But you are wrong in so "absolutely" dismissing unoaked chardonnay. I can't believe that you despise unoaked Premier Cru Chablis, for instance! (There are even a couple of unoaked Grands Crus,) And ,as has been mentioned, aging chardonnay on its lees in stainless steel with some 'bâtonnage' can produce a pleasant butteriness which other white wines don't reach, and which can be an asset when paired with some dishes such as sauced fish courses.
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Re: WTN: A nice Californian Chardonnay

by Oswaldo Costa » Sun Jul 12, 2009 5:19 pm

Victor, I agree. Since I was responding to Hoke's note, I meant the straightforward kind of unoaked chard, the kind he was referring to when he wrote Chardonnay, left alone, I often find not that interesting .

I love Chablis, both oaked and unoaked, and would not include that in the pool-side category.
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Re: WTN: A nice Californian Chardonnay

by Victor de la Serna » Tue Jul 14, 2009 12:37 am

Do try Enate 234 if it shows up in your market. For €8, it transcends the poolside category - oh, not by much, say into the alfresco dining category, which is nice enough.
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Re: WTN: A nice Californian Chardonnay

by JC (NC) » Tue Jul 14, 2009 12:52 pm

I believe Foxen in Santa Barbara County, CA makes an unoaked Chardonnay and that Mer Soleil makes both an oaked and an unoaked version. The Silver, or unoaked version of Mer Soleil Chardonnay uses grapes from the Santa Lucia Highlands in Monterey County and is fermented in stainless steel and cement vats and has a twist closure. (Winemaker is Charlie Wagner II.)
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Re: WTN: A nice Californian Chardonnay

by Brian K Miller » Tue Jul 14, 2009 2:24 pm

One more un-oaked Chard that seems to avoid, somehow, the "curse of blandness": Elizabeth Spencer Napa Valley Chardonnay sees no significant oak but retains a delicious mineral tangyness that is a hit with many of my friends, even. Delicious stuff, and sub $30 in price.
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