Trimbach ‘Cuvée Frédéric Emile’ Riesling 1976

After 10 years together, 2 kids and a new business, my wife and I decided to head out last night for dinner. First up I truly believe Sydney has one of the best range of restaurants anywhere. Last night we went to a new place called A Tavola in Darlinghurst. Incredibility fresh Italian food served up and down a long single browm marble table that runs the length of the room. Dish of the night, an awesome hand made pappardelle with pork ragu. Anyhow, I digress, first up we opened a half bottle of Trimbach ‘Cuvée Frédéric Emile’ Riesling 1976, I purchased off a friend of mine a few years ago who is a wine broker hence I do not know its providence. It is by far and away, the oldest riesling I have tried so I had no idea what to expect (and not sure I still do). The colour was a deep golden amber but not as deep as one finds with a wine such as a Aus tokay. The nose was interesting, Lisette was right when she said it reminded her of roquefort. On the palate, off-dry it filled the mouth with lovely long length and interesting depth of flavour but one that I would best describe as oxidative almost sherry like but not in an unpleasant way. Definitely none of the typical riesling flavours. For those that have drunk more widely of the riesling grape, is this the limit of this wines lifespan? In hindsight, I should have kept half a glass to one side for later to see how it evolved.

With the main meal, a Roda II 2001. Deep garnet colour. Raspberry nose. Earthy smokey tones. Opened up nicely over the hour or so it sat in the decanter. Excellent match for the rustic Italian food.

we opened a half bottle of Trimbach ‘Cuvée Frédéric Emile’ Riesling 1976...I do not know its providence

I didn't know wines could be provident!

Nonetheless, interesting evening and I'm no expert but this one sounds like it may be pushing it. Depends on how much else you got from the wine besides just the oxidative sherry-esque notes?

My most recent tasting note (do please see the tasting date at the end of the note) indicated that the wine was passing its peak some years ago. My own experience with this particular wine is that at its very best (and '76 was a splendid year for Alsace) the Cuvee Frederic Emile can hold for between 25-30 years after which it tends to fall rather quickly. What the heck though..25-30 years isn't all that much to be "faulted"

Best
Rogov

Trimbach, Riesling, Cuvee Frederic Emile, 1976: Stony and flinty on first sip, turning to a petrol-like finish and in the middle nutty, honeycomb, apricot and citrus flavors and aromas. On the palate medium bodied and barely sweet, this is one of Trimbach’s fattest wines ever, with a long mineral-earthy-petrol finish. Already deep green-orange and only now giving a hint that it may be just a wee bit past its peak, this remains a superb wine. Not meant for further cellaring so drink up whatever stocks you have left on hand. Score 94. (Re-tasted 19 Feb 2000)

Rogov,

Thanks for that. I suspected it was past its prime but I have come across some strange wines recently which made me wonder whether really old rieslings also take on these features. Nevetheless it was not an unpleasant experience and the company more than made up for it.

Mark

My most recent tasting note (do please see the tasting date at the end of the note) indicated that the wine was passing its peak some years ago. My own experience with this particular wine is that at its very best (and '76 was a splendid year for Alsace) the Cuvee Frederic Emile can hold for between 25-30 years after which it tends to fall rather quickly. What the heck though..25-30 years isn't all that much to be "faulted"

I agree, but would like to add that 1976 having been, in general at least, relatively low-acid and often botrytised even so far as dry wines were concerned, ordering from restaurant wine lists in Alsace (unfortunately our family didn't yet by Trimbach wines back in the seventies), I've come across more misstored (including oxidized, Sherry-like) bottles of 1976 CFE and CSH from this vintage than most others (including per se lesser vintages). Basically the same holds true for 1976 German Riesling, which leads me to assume that wines from such vintages react more severely to less than ideal storage. Note when I say "misstored", it's not as if restaurant owners had kept on their chimney pieces, far from it - for wines drunk in e.g. the nineties, twenty-plus years of cellaring wine at 17-18 degrees Celsius (which virtually no one I've met in gastronomy admits is too high) instead of 15-minus will amply suffice to damage it.

Greetings from Switzerland, David.
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„J'ai gâché vingt ans de mes plus belles années au billard. Si c'était à refaire, je recommencerais.“ – Roger Conti

wines from such vintages react more severely to less than ideal storage

By 'such vintages' do you mean warm botrytis-heavy vintages?

wines from such vintages react more severely to less than ideal storage

By 'such vintages' do you mean warm botrytis-heavy vintages?

You're up late.

Or early.

wines from such vintages react more severely to less than ideal storage

By 'such vintages' do you mean warm botrytis-heavy vintages?

You're up late.

Or early.

It's no more than an impression of mine (however likely), judging from bottles had elsewhere at tastings, from restaurant wine lists etc. (= I won't systematically misstore bottles to find out whether I'm correct), that botrytis-heavy (possibly also low-acid) wines may be more problematic in this regard. I've had more misstored 1989s than 1990s in Alsatian restaurants, for example, too, even though both are such great vintages that there really should be no problem provided bottles are stored perfectly.

Greetings from Switzerland, David.
_________________

„J'ai gâché vingt ans de mes plus belles années au billard. Si c'était à refaire, je recommencerais.“ – Roger Conti

You're up late.

Or early.

I was up late (DC time) after too much simple but convivial Côtes de Gascogne with friends..

Note when I say "misstored", it's not as if restaurant owners had kept on their chimney pieces, far from it - for wines drunk in e.g. the nineties, twenty-plus years of cellaring wine at 17-18 degrees Celsius (which virtually no one I've met in gastronomy admits is too high) instead of 15-minus will amply suffice to damage it.

Greetings from Switzerland, David.
_________________

„J'ai gâché vingt ans de mes plus belles années au billard. Si c'était à refaire, je recommencerais.“ – Roger Conti

David

It is interesting to see you think storage at 17-18 will adversely impact wine more than storage at 15 and below. I had always the former range should be ok so long as there is minimal variation in temperature.

Mark

David

It is interesting to see you think storage at 17-18 will adversely impact wine more than storage at 15 and below. I had always the former range should be ok so long as there is minimal variation in temperature.

Mark

Partly comes down to one's definition of "adversely impact", of course.

Ultimately it's a multiplication of temperature with time, but it seems as if up to 8 degrees Celsius is ideal to keep wine for virtually forever (Cawdor Castle and similar cellars where 18th and 19th Century Lafite etc. are/were stored and age at a snail's pace); 12 to 15 are probably ideal if one plans to drink wine within one's lifetime; slightly above that, over 16 will kill off part of a wine's potential for finesse within a few years at the latest, and ultimately make it mature more quickly than ideal. Room temperature can damage a wine within very short order, destroy it usually takes longer and/or a higher temperature (the combination is fatal). Minimal variation in temperature is ideal as you indicate, but may be more important for the seal (the cork) than the content (because of the change in volume/pressure - ultimately, pushed out same as dried out cork may lead to oxidation). The wine itself really only needs cool temperature and darkness, but the ideal seal remains a problem.

I'm just coming back from a gathering where people pointed out how much fresher and more precise and finesseful wines from my collection look, smell and taste compared to bottles of the same wine(s) they've had elsewhere. Note that while it is logical that wine stored coolly will age more slowly, I wouldn't call that aspect in itself an advantage. Unfortunately there is no way of making wine age more quickly and equally as well (equally as harmoniously, finessefully etc.) - one can't have both.

Greetings from Switzerland, David.
_________________

„J'ai gâché vingt ans de mes plus belles années au billard. Si c'était à refaire, je recommencerais.“ – Roger Conti

David

Thanks for the quick response. Fortunately I have stored 95% of my cellar professional as the Sydney appartment would cook the wine in one season. Next time we move however, I am keen to build a decent cellar so the temp rage is food for thought. When we first moved in our current place, we did leave a couple of cask for day to day consumption in the house over Christmas whilst we went away. When we returned, the entire lot was cooked, absolutely turned to vinegar. A painful experience.

Mark