More to the point, Christian treated Remo and me to a great dinner out – great mainly from the perspective of what he ordered from the wine list, the well-chosen table out on the veranda, and the perfect weather, beautiful, but not sunny. Thanks so much!!
Château Haut Brion Pessac-Léognan 1990
Thanks to Christian. Less evolved than a bottle in January, absolutely pristine. Fresh, lively and glossy deep ruby-black, red rim. Fruitier and fresher than last time, yet greater subtlety, light on its feet. Wonderful terroir expression. Scorched brick clay and tobacco, pretty brown and exotic spice notes. Clearly milder than the Lafite and the Margaux, the 1990 HB simply does not have the density and power of the 1989. “Thickened” a little with airing, without losing harmony. Nice length, pretty terroir expression on the aftertaste – and there are not many terroirs as expressive as Haut Brion’s. Drink or hold. Rating: 95(+?)
Château Lafite Rothschild Pauillac 1990
Thanks to Christian. By far the greatest bottle of 1990 Lafite I have ever had (the wine can be flat-out disappointing). Fresh ruby-black, ruby-red at the rim, pretty gloss. Soft cedar and faint green bell pepper, tobacco leaf and black truffle to great, finesseful fruit. Red-fruitier top notes (almost Burgundian) to a core of blackcurrant and blueberry. Gorgeous terroir expression, nicely floral and minerally, and at the same time, dense, sweet, thick and smooth. Great subtlety and length. Alluring, if slightly heavy florality, and a more precise lead pencil top note with airing. What a beauty! Remo’s favourite of the night. Drink or hold? Rating: 97
Château Margaux 1990
Thanks to Christian. Margaux, in terms of terroir expression, has always been a wine I admire rather than love, but the 1990 is clearly one of the best. Deep plummy purple-ruby-black. Subtle wet earth, noble green tobacco leaf and a unique mocha top note to deep as well as “blacker” blackcurrant. Powerful, thick, round, smooth, balanced. Great depth, nice minerality. Tender marzipan from the oak. Tiny rhubarb/camphor top note or a touch of Cabernet Franc leafiness? Great, sweet tannin and acidity. Hugely long and persistent on the finish. Most density and reserve fruit at the core to open up with airing of the three 1990 1er Crus that night (as well as potentially with bottle age – much more to be sure than the HB), and the only one that remains youthful enough it started closing down with airing. Impressive restrained (potential?) sweetness. Christian’s favourite of the night. I am not yet fully convinced that the 1990 will surpass the 1982 at its best one day, but it may. The raw materials are certainly promising. Hold. Rating: 97+
Greetings from Switzerland, David.
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„J'ai gâché vingt ans de mes plus belles années au billard. Si c'était à refaire, je recommencerais.“ – Roger Conti