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WTN: Bargain Barolo and Special Spatlese

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Dale Williams

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Compassionate Connoisseur

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WTN: Bargain Barolo and Special Spatlese

by Dale Williams » Fri Jun 26, 2009 10:50 am

Wednesday night I was supposed to dine at a concert by the river, but a thunderstorm intervened. So I braised the fennel I had intended for my salad, added a smoked pork chop, and had that with the 2002 Zilliken (Forstmeister Geltz) Saarburger Rausch Riesling Spatlese. (edited to add that this is #6 if multiple APs in '02) Yowza! This is what I look for it in Saar, clean and precise fruit backed up by vibrant acids. This is no lightweight, but it is incredibly light on its feet. Green apples, nectarine, slatey minerals. Long finish. At least as good on night 2. A-/A

Last night Betsy was doing Magic Flute down in Battery Park, I had leftovers (including another smoked chop), along with some sauteed mushrooms and a panzanella meets eggplant salad. Remainder of the Zilliken, but wanted red with the 'shrooms so opened a half bottle of the 2004 Giovanni Rosso "Serralunga" Barolo. This was $10- Zachys blew out at $240 a case, I got 375s, 750s, and mags (and split with a couple friends at cost). Surprisingly open for a 2004, there some tannic backbone but the fruit is fresh and forward. Nose of red fruit and roses. Red cherries and a little raspberry, moderate acids, pretty good length. Just a bit of tar (because I'm looking for it), not a lot of obvious wood, a nice midweight Barolo at that price. B+


Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency. 

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