WTN: Another closure victim ('04 Rijckaert Jura)

Last night, we dined on leftover salmon from the weekend and stir-fried Spring vegetables. With dinner, I opened:

2004 Jean Rijckaert Côtes de Jura Chardonnay "Les Sarres"
color: dark golden yellow
nose: initially, a hint of browned apples, turning more minerally
palate: crisp acidity, slightly oxidative, not much fruit

Having recently discussed with Tim York the possibility that I'd like Rijckaert's wines, I picked this up on a recent visit to Sam's in Chicago. The first warning sign was the fake cork revealed by the removal of the capsule. The color also hinted at some oxidation and a first sniff confirmed it. Fortunately, it wasn't heavily oxidized, though the wine did seem tired anyway. A decent match with the salmon, but not a very interesting wine.

Mark Lipton

[David M. Bueker]

Sure it's a closure issue? Sounds like the oxidized Jura style.

My thought, as well. Isn't this bottling more Savagnin than Chardonnay? Still, never a fan of the synthetic corks...

Last night, we dined on leftover salmon from the weekend and stir-fried Spring vegetables. With dinner, I opened:

2004 Jean Rijckaert Côtes de Jura Chardonnay "Les Sarres"
color: dark golden yellow
nose: initially, a hint of browned apples, turning more minerally
palate: crisp acidity, slightly oxidative, not much fruit

Having recently discussed with Tim York the possibility that I'd like Rijckaert's wines, I picked this up on a recent visit to Sam's in Chicago. The first warning sign was the fake cork revealed by the removal of the capsule. The color also hinted at some oxidation and a first sniff confirmed it. Fortunately, it wasn't heavily oxidized, though the wine did seem tired anyway. A decent match with the salmon, but not a very interesting wine.

Mark Lipton

IMO this is probably a closure/storage issue since this 100% Chardonnay wine [he also makes a 100% Savagnin] is made along the same lines as his burgundies i.e. not in a 'vin jaune' style.

Your description, apart from the dark colour and 'brown' rather than 'green' apples, is roughly what I would have expected - certainly the minerality and crisp acidity. As you say it just sounds tired and your diagnosis seems bang on to me. I suspect the 2006 would have given you a much better idea of what Rijckaert intended.

[David M. Bueker]

Thanks for the additional info Nigel. That certainly pushes the issue to the fake cork (the only closure I dislike more than real cork).

Sure it's a closure issue? Sounds like the oxidized Jura style.

Rijckaert doesn't do the oxidative style. His synthetic stoppers are a mistake, though. I argued with him about it but he claims that Nomacorc allows decent ageing. I suspect that he doesn't dare go to screwcaps because of their poor image in his main European markets.

Incidentally, a few days ago, I opened a delicious bottle of his 04 Jura Chard Vignes des Voises, under natural cork.

Mark, why not put pressure on him by emailing your TN to rijckaert.jean@orange.fr ?

Sure it's a closure issue? Sounds like the oxidized Jura style.

Rijckaert doesn't do the oxidative style. His synthetic stoppers are a mistake, though. I argued with him about it but he claims that Nomacorc allows decent ageing. I suspect that he doesn't dare go to screwcaps because of their poor image in his main European markets.

Incidentally, a few days ago, I opened a delicious bottle of his 04 Jura Chard Vignes des Voises, under natural cork.

Mark, why not put pressure on him by emailing your TN to rijckaert.jean@orange.fr ?

Thanks for the information, gents. I was fairly sure that it wasn't just an oxidative Vin Jaune-style wine given what I knew about his Maconnais Chardonnays, but it's nice to have confirmation. OK, Tim, I'll send him my note as an FYI -- should I drop your name?

Mark Lipton

Geez, I wonder what that non-oxidized Savagnin is going to taste like? I sort of expected at least a semi-Jura treatment on that. I'll have to give the 2004 Rijckaert a try this summer and report back.

Thanks for the additional info Nigel. That certainly pushes the issue to the fake cork (the only closure I dislike more than real cork).

My pleasure David!. As regards the rest I wonder how many people don't already know that?

OK, Tim, I'll send him my note as an FYI -- should I drop your name?

Mark Lipton

No, Mark, he wouldn't know my name. I've met him several times at tastings but I didn't give my name; never do in fact.