WTN: White Burgundy with The Grand Crew

The Grand Crew does it again – a fantastic array of wines, this time centering on white Burgundies. Thanks again to Michael Peterson of DuJour Bistro for the menu tailored to tonight’s event. Big props to Warren Taranow who organized the tasting, as well as to all the generous contributors to the lineup.

1. 2004 Francois Raveneau Chablis 1er (uncertain vineyard)- Pale golden lemon hue. The nose shows high toned floral aromas and faint green apple. Abundant acids on the palate. Overall the palate somewhat reticent compared to the initial olfactory impressions.

2. 2005 Vincent Girardin Puligny-Montrachet 1er Les Folatieres - Smoky oak on the nose was quite distinctive from the other wines in the lineup. I wonder how much new oak was utilized? Yellow fruits, flowers, crushed stone, smoky lees, acacia blossom. Full in the mouth, but not heavy. I can’t help but draw comparisons to some well crafted New World chards, certainly there are some stylistic parallels.

3. 2005 Henri Boillot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Mouchère - Elegant and pure white rose and young lemon blossom aromas that lead to rich, detailed and equally pure flavors. Solid depth and persistence on the toasty finish. I’m familiar with Henri Boillot’s premier cru red selections, especially from Volnay. Really impressed with this effort – my favorite of the young ones (2000 and younger) I would love to try again in 5-10 years.

4. 1990 Roger Belland Criots Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru – Easily my favorite nose of the night. An absolutely enchanting aroma redolent of caramel, butterscotch, and toast – a profile only years in the bottle and gentle oxidation could create. Bob assures us that the provenance is impeccable, purchased upon release and laid down in his cellar only to be awakened tonight. The years have also oxidized much of the acid elements, yielding a much rounder, warmer mouthfeel than the young selections it was surrounded with – quite a contrast. The palate is somewhat subdued compared to the fireworks on the nose, yet the elegance of this wine shines through to me. Warren is beside himself as he realizes what age can do to these wines, and I too am duly impressed. The look on his face as he realizes that he has been committing infanticide all these years is just priceless.

5. 1982 Jos. Drouhin Marquis de LaGuiche Montrachet Grand Cru - As it was passed around, I noticed rusty water stains on the worn capsule - certainly sitting at the bottom of someone’s cellar for a couple of decades. The nose, a rather subdued mix of white flowers and gentle smoke, certainly not as showy as the Criots Batard tasted just one round prior. Along with the Sauzet (described later in my notes), the most complex palate of the night, with so many elements, all working in symphonic harmony. After 27 years, the fruit was refreshingly alive, plenty of acidity left – but now with some pleasing rounded edges. This wine along with the Sauzet were head and shoulders above the others – but of course, this is the magic of Montrachet. Aged fine wine has that cerebral nature to it, that abstract quality that many of us just can’t put into words. The LaGuiche edged out the Sauzet for the WOTN for me because of just those utterly beguiling qualities that develop with bottle age.

6. 2005 Aubert Reuling Vineyard Sonoma Coast – I dared Warren to bring this and he did. The last bottle I opened was one of the most impressive New World Chardonnays I have ever had. Its my favorite of the Aubert lineup, and all 3 of his offerings are superstars (Lauren, Ritchie, and Reuling). Nonetheless, its got a fine nose with relatively few distinguishing features that set it apart from other top notch chards. The palate holds impressive concentration and complexity, certainly (for me) a notch above other so called top notch New World offerings. Sure its got some oak, and it wears its alcohol well, but most level headed tasters can’t deny this is a superbly crafted wine. I’m a big fan of Mark Aubert’s chardonnays. Put into the lineup of Burgundies, in my opinion, it has grand cru (EGAD!) complexity (CRISE CARDIAQUE!) scale (BLASPHEME!) and concentration (TA GUEULE!!!) Top consideration if there is ever another Judgement of Paris.

7. 1995 Verget Chablis Grand Cru Valmur - Light yellow color in the glass and an understated mix of limestone and other white minerals. In the mouth it has pure transparent flavors of citrus and stone with a clear and precise acidic backbone.

8. 2003 Bouchard Pere et Fils Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru - Reticent but very ripe nose hints at white flowers, white plum, orange oil and toasted oak. Very rich, dense and chewy, but perfumed and penetrating. Surprising acidity for such a hot year, but certainly rounder than the 2002 I opened recently.

9. 2000 J-M Brocard Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos - Elegant and pure aromas featuring white flowers, oyster shell and subtle spice notes that complement the rich, full-bodied flavors.

10. 2000 Jean Noel Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de Maltroie - Complex and interesting nose of lemon blossoms, melon, orchard fruit and citrus peel merges into full and palate that possess plenty of dry extract and a complex and penetrating finish.

11. 1999 Etienne Sauzet Montrachet Grand Cru – Fairly reticent nose belies a fantastically complex palate with wonderful depth, opulence, and luxuriance. Wave upon wave of pleasurable sensations leave me astonished at my own ecstasy. By this time of the night, I am well under the effects of the alcohol, and I am thoroughly intoxicated with pleasure. (Am I writing my wine impressions or passages for a tawdry romance novel?) My co-WOTN, perhaps a shade less cerebral than the LaGuiche, simply because of its relatively young age. Many thanks to Warren for his generous contribution. It is easy to understand why the white wine world holds Montrachet at its absolute pinnacle. To have two examples from this hallowed vineyard made for a truly memorable evening.

12. 2000 Drappier Champagne Grande Sendree – Thanks to Michael P. for this generous gift to the table, we enjoyed his culinary creations all evening. Lively effervescent. Brioche and white flowers, with nice balance and penetrating acidity.

All in all, another fantastic Grand Crew event. Wholeheartedly agree with Jenise, there wasn’t a dog in the entire lineup – not even close. Some lasting impressions for me:
First, the Montrachet vineyard showed its class tonight. The complexity of the mouthfeel was just a notch above the rest. Its been famous for hundreds of years and its easy to see why. Often imitated, never duplicated. Second, Bob’s selections – a 1990 and a 1982 showed the staying power of Grand Cru (at least Montrachet). I was left thoroughly enchanted with these older bottles. It's not often that I taste examples of older white Burgundies, and I was left fascinated with the many and varied experiences of tonight’s tasting. It makes it easier to resist opening some bottles prematurely, just with the enticement of what awaits with time!!!

[Jenise]

Great notes about a great tasting--I literally woke up on cloud 9 this morning, still revelling in the bounty we produced last night. I am so proud to be one of this group. I'll attach my notes to yours early tomorrow--I wrote up a draft this morning but needed to verify a few facts before posting and we had to leave for an event in Vancouver. Catch you then.

What a night. The tasting exceeded my high expectations! Thanks to all for good company and generosity.
Tasted Blind, accompanied by an awesome meal. Here are my notes, somewhat limited, partly due to intoxication.

1.) 2004 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux
Faint nose initially, opened up some later. Dusty minerality, limestone, floral tones (honeysuckle?), lemon verbena, sea water. Crescendos on the palate. Tremendous Premier Cru Chablis with Grand Cru character (and price!)(93 pts.)

2.) 2005 Domaine Vincent Girardin Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières
Enjoyed by the group. Bruised apple nose with some oak. The only wine besides the Aubert with distinct malo creaminess.(88 pts.)

3.) 2005 Domaine Henri Boillot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Mouchère
My notes are sparse on this one. Young, a bit more fruit that acidity made me guess an '02. Very solid, but didn't excite me like it did Chaz (& Steve Tanzer). A Monopole.(91 pts.)

4.) 1990 Domaine Joseph Belland Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet
Crumbly cork expertly extracted by Bob. Smokey burnt caramel apple, hazelnut. Great cut that lasts as long as the finish. A revelation of what will happen to my own wines when gently (lovingly) aged (93 pts.)

5.) 1982 Marquis de Laguiche (Joseph Drouhin) Montrachet
Another contribution by Bob. The first Montrachet I've had the pleasure to meet. Extra points for surviving 27 years. Yellow-amber-gold. Smokey apple and almond and a mediterranean spice. Great minerality. Incredible complexity of nose and paate, long finish, remarkable density; a little less grip than the '90 Boillot Criots Batard-Montrachet. Showed it's age after 45 minutes with a gradual decline in the glass. A beauty that I'm glad I had an opportunity to try. (96 pts.)

6.) 2005 Aubert Chardonnay Reuling Vineyard
This was the ringer, and it held its own. Dense but not fat, it was jam packed with everything making it the most improbably balanced white I can remember. High extract, alcohol, and acidity together made each individual exorbitant element less noticeable. I still can't believe it has 15.6% alcohol!
Nose and palate shows citrus, pears and apple, with a creamy mouthfeel and enough minerality to show up and even shine at this White Burgundy tasting. This and the Girardin were the only bottles that showed some malo. A great showing of a Great American White. (93 pts.)

7.) 1995 Verget Chablis Grand Cru Valmur
Feminine, delicate. A little less steeliness and cut than I typically associate with a Chablis (90 pts.)

8.) 2003 Bouchard Père et Fils Corton-Charlemagne
My worst guess of the night. I'm not even going to write what I thought this was. I would never expect this much acidity in a scorcher year like '03. They're not allowed to add it, but it makes you wonder. Green apple and citrus, great minerals, nice finish. (90 pts.)

9.) 2000 Jean-Marc Brocard Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos
This was an obvious Chablis, with oyster shell, lemon curd and great grip. I didn't think it had GC density. Very nice.(91 pts.)

10.) 2000 Jean Noel Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Maltroie
Very complex and funky. Young looking wine with an older palate. Earthy, almost Scotch tones.(89 pts.)

11.) 1999 Etienne Sauzet Montrachet
My co-WOTN (with the Marquis de Laguiche, of course!). Adolescent. Huge wine with apples, lemon, intense minerals, great grip. Powerful attack and finish. Great balance of power and elegance, fruit and acidity.(96 pts.)

12.) 1990 Drappier Champagne Grande Sendrée
A gift to the tasting from Mike and Becky at DuJour Bistro. Crisp and clean and youthful. Scant nuttiness still dominated by citrus fruit. Fine but generous mousse, great grip.(92 pts.)

Warren

Nice!
You guys were lucky with the '99s and '00s (especially with Sauzet, as one of the producers worse hit with PremOx). I loved aged white Burgundy, but no longer willing to risk cellaring.

[Jenise]

I love the way this group is coming together--this might have been our best tasting ever. On the whole, the wines were beyond magnificent. No corkers, no prem-ox, no disappointments, and some were the stuff of religious moments.

All the wines are served blind in the format that was, when this group first formed, actually the total lack of a format and no one person wanting to impose their will on the group, But it has become a format of its own and it really works for us. No order is chosen: the bagged wines are simply staged on a nearby table. Someone selects a first wine, and it's passed, discussed and revealed. After that, participants jump up and put their wine, or one of their wines as some bring multiples, in play for Next. The order's random and voluntary, but it's fun and often creates a more informative order to be able to decide on the fly, "my wine should follow this one".

1) Great start: apple nose, honeysuckle, lemon and flowers with a steel fist. Young but ambitious. Everyone guessed Chablis, and it is: 2004 Ravenneau 1er Cru Buttreaux Chablis.

2) Young, floral and smokey, modern. A bit riper and sweeter on the palate than the first. Wasn't California-tropical or anything, but a bit of malolactic caused the thought crossed my that a west coast chardonnay could taste kind of like this. It's an 05 Girardin 1er Cru Les Folatieres.

3) Big wine, great character, lemon and orange citrus, very floral--orange blossoms bloom on the nose, honeyed sweetness, no flab, great focus and substantial complexity. Most guesses center around 2000 for vintage, but it's younger than that and the youngest of the wines I brought for tonight, the 2005 Henri Boillot Puligny-Montrachet Monopole 1er Cru Clos de la Mocheres. Tanzer gave it 95 or 96 points, and I'm very pleased by the way it shows (and that I have another bottle).

4) Oh, here's a switch. One of White Rock Bob's wines. Amber gold, old gold. Sweet whiskey barrel, cherry wood, smoke, butterscotch, wool, shale, tangy acidity. Gorgeously mature. I guess late 80's and am close: it's a 1990. Purchased direct from the winemaker in a year gone by, it's a 1990 Roger Belland Criots Batard Montrachet Grand Cru.

5) White Rock Bob grabs another bottle: it too is dark old gold. On the nose and palate, it's almond nutty, earthy, with more fruit than the last one with a bit of bruised peach, preserved lemon, apple butter and toffee. Low impact entry gets huge, just HUGE in the mouth as what we first perceive as low acidity builds volume and turns into a profoundly eternal finish. The reaction around the table is not just intellectual but visceral. A real WOW wine, and a privilege to taste: it's a 1982 Drouhin Marquis de Laguiche Montrachet. An experience for the life list.

6) Warren, tonight's organizer, now tosses out his first bottle. Very pale wine. Pears. A fresh pear puree, syrup, and out of that the acid attacks one's tongue like petillance, but there are no bubbles on the glass and no further acid reaction in the back of the mouth. Now apples appear, and then heavy sweetened cream. The weight is unmistakeable, but I did not expect this from looking at what was in my glass. A powerful, deeply concentrated wine, and unlike any chardonnay I've ever had before. It turns out to be a ringer, but what a ringer this is: 2005 Aubert "Reuling" from California.

7) A plate of scallops covered with chopped bacon and set in a tasty broth with a dash of vinegar appears in front of us, which looks like an opportunity for another of my wines. Pale yellow, does not look it's age. Classy, feminine but in a full-figured kind of way, with apple chiffon fruit, a bit of tangerine citrus and a note that reminds me of my mom's freshly baked angel food cake. It has the limestone thing but not the steel, so though Chablis gets mentioned as a possibility there's no consensus. But it is Chablis, it's the 1995 Verget Grand Cru Valmur.

Great nose on this next one, all minerals and lean acid on the palate and a wine that's obviously in need of more time. It's quite a surprise when it turns out to be a 2003, the Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru from Bouchard Pere et Fils.

9) So now Marc dives into the pile and sends this one around the table. Oh my, what an aromatic nose THIS has! Complex fruit, clean and crisp and yet not ungenerous, others go right to Chablis before I do. It's the 2000 Jean Marc Brocard Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos.

10) So I grab my last bottle. Limestone chalkiness on a sunny day, earthy, a little funk, I think 'salad', Serge says "compost bin in a good way", someone guesses early 90's, plenty of acid and lemon. It's the 2000 Gagnard 1er Cru Chassagne Montrachet "Maltroie".

11) The staging table is now empty but for one bottle. It's Warren's. I stick my nose in the glass. OH MY GOD. And this is why my notes have only this one comment, all in caps: I LOVE THIS WINE. Because I put my nose in the glass and a flood of memories come back, I remember feeling like this before. I stick my nose in that glass and ten years melts away and I'm at a friend's apartment in Halle, Belgium, and it's afternoon and for my friend I've pulled from a case of white burgs I've just bought in Burgundy where I travelled with other friends, a bottle of 1990 Etienne Sauzet plus a hunk of stinky cheese. That bottle was not a Montrachet, but still, there's an essential Sauzet-ness here at ten years old I instantly recognize. 1999 Sauzet Montrachet. WOW oh WOW oh WOW. My WOTN.

12) Now out comes the chef/proprietor's wife bearing a gift from the kitchen, a 1990 Drappier Grande Sendrée. Very youthful with persistent bubble and none of the caramel and nut tones of age.

13) And now here's another wine from Erik. It's old and complex and nutty, and though there's absolutely no primary fruit left there's good acidity and structure. Then he unveils the bottle, and there's no label. What? Turns out, it's a Washington chardonnay a friend of his made. In 1993!!!

Warren, thanks for organizing this great evening.

This is painful to read! Great tasting, congratulations.

I forgot to give credit where credit is due; Jenise nailed the '99 Sauzet blind. She said this is a Sauzet, about 10 years old.
Nicely done, Jenise!

[Jenise]

Nicely done, Jenise!

blush curtsy blush curtsy