West of Sydney, over the Great Dividing Range and into the Central Tablelands, lies the town of Mudgee. Hotter in summer than the Barossa, but cooler in winter than Margaret River or the Yarra or Clare Valley. Most of the wine produced here is, IMO, pretty uninspiring. There is the occassional worthwhile wine, however, including di Lusso's Barbera 2006. This producer specialises in Italian varieties, which is refreshing in largely French-variety-dominant Australia (with some exceptions). The 2006 Barbera has a savoury edge to the nose which immediately caught my interest, with gentle sour cherry and plum, some dry brown leaves, and a slight earthiness. The palate is silky, yet possesses substantial tannins. It has very refreshing acidity, holds its 15.4% abv amazingly well (I would have guessed only 13.5-14%), and a lick of vanillary oak in finish which somehow seems to complement the style. Near-juicy, with appropriate oak and enough flavour and savouriness to keep me going back for more.