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WTN: Ridge Carignane BuchignaniRanch ATP '07...(short/boring

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WTN: Ridge Carignane BuchignaniRanch ATP '07...(short/boring

by TomHill » Fri Jun 12, 2009 9:35 am

Fresh off the boat, I cracked last night:
1. Ridge Calif BuchignaniRanch Carignane (OldVines/HillsideGrown; 14.4%; 49 brls; http://www.RidgeWine.com; House and Top blocks of 5 vnyd parcels; Drk: 8/08-8/12-8/13: JO) 2007: Very dark/black color; very strong dusty/old vines black cherry/plummy/blackberry/Carignane bit herbal light toasty/oak/DraperPerfume quite spicy nose; bit hard/tannic/acid rich/black cherry/black berry/Carignane slight herbal/dusty/old vines light smokey/toasty/oak flavor; very long bit hard/tannic/bitey plummy/black cherry/Carignane rather dusty/old vines finish w/ fair tannins; much more fruit than previous Buchignani Carignanes; still a bit hard on palate. $28.00 (ATP)
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And a wee BloodyPulpit:
1. Carignane: Another grape I have trouble getting my arms around. There's a lot of old Carignane vnyds in Calif and that's what attracts PaulDraper to the variety. He is, without doubt, the most skilled winemaker in Calif w/ the variety.
I like the aromatics of Carignane, which reminds me of black cherry & blackberries, maybe a little Sangio-like. But they ofen have this rather mean acid/tannic/hard bite on the palate and seldom show the lushness you get out of Zinfandel. I must admit that I can't ever recall a Carignane that I thought even remotely approached greatness.
So....with that background...I was expecting to find little to like about this Carignane. Surprise/surprise....I liked this Carignane quite a lot. It had much more fruit than any Buchignani Carignanes I've yet had. The tannic bite was there, but the wine was not nearly as severe/hard on the palate as usual. Maybe the best young Ridge Carignane I've yet had.
The tannic/acid bite of Carignane suggests that it is a wine that should age well. But, maybe like Dolcetto, it's a grape that is just missing something that makes it age well. When I was visiting w/ Draper back in May, he made the comment that he's come to the conclusion that pure Carignane doesn't age particularly well...which I found to be a surprising admission given his interest in the grape.
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2. Man.....I've been very/very impressed w/ all the Ridge '07's released thus far. Not a loser, or even a mediocre one, in all of them. The wines all seem to have more forward fruit and less Ridge winemaking/DraperPerfume than past vintages. Paul swears there's been no change in their winemaking practices and simply attributes it to the quality of fruit from 2007.
Tom
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Brian K Miller

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Re: WTN: Ridge Carignane BuchignaniRanch ATP '07...(short/boring

by Brian K Miller » Fri Jun 12, 2009 11:14 am

Have you tried the Liocco Indica? It has a pretty big swatch of Carriagne in the blend.
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Yup....

by TomHill » Fri Jun 12, 2009 12:11 pm

Brian K Miller wrote:Have you tried the Liocco Indica? It has a pretty big swatch of Carriagne in the blend.


I've tried that one, Brian. Made from MendoCnty grapes I recall. Thought it was nice...but just that. Not particularly
interesting like the Ridge was. It seemed a bit mild-mannered but still had a little of that Carignane tannic edge.
There's a lot of old-vine Carignane stuff up there in the UkiahVlly. Fetzer (as in BarneyFetzer, in the early '70's..
not the megacorp Fetzer of Brown-Forman) used to make a pretty tasty Carignane way back when.
Tom

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