Liège is a good centre for importers of French and Italian wine but, because it involves a round trip of nearly 200km, I like to combine at least two tastings.
So, last Saturday, I was not too happy when I wasted about 45 minutes locating the complex where the Italian tasting was being held and another 15 minutes discovering the relevant suite in the complex. To add to my irritation, it transpired that this importer has caught the bad habit (so far not spreading here beyond Italian importers) of charging an entry fee. And to cap it all, one of the exhibitors whose wines I was keen to taste, Colpetrone from Umbria, was not present and had left his bottles still in their cartons thus preventing me and others from pouring our own samples. As a result I lingered here less that I might otherwise have done and hastened on to the tasting of a sample of French organic and biodynamic wines at the cellars of one of the best wine pickers whom I know.
Looking back, however, I am pleased to have had the opportunity of tasting from these four Italian producers who were previously unknown to me. I found their wines more distinctive if less opulent than those of many more prestigious producers.
Orlando Abrigo, Treiso (CN), Piemonte http://www.orlandoabrigo.it/abrigo-azienda-i.html
The aromas of Barbera d’Alba 2007 (€12) were quite subdued but nice tangy fruit with tar notes showed on the palate; 15/20++. Nebbiolo d’Alba 2006 (€16) was a step up with rounder and more complex fruit also marked by tar; 15.5/20++. Barbaresco Montersino 2000 (€37) was in different league with lovely raspberry tinged aromas and a medium bodied, elegant and long palate showing good depth, balance and brightly mature fruit with lively acidity; 17/20, yes QPR.
Cascina Cucco, Serralunga d’Alba (CN), Piemonte http://www.langhe.net/cascinacucco/
Dolcetto d’Alba 2007 (€10) was generously fruity with nice grip; 15.5/20 QPR. Barbera d’Alba 2007 (€13) showed greater body and complexity with meat touches and a nice tang; 16/20. Langhe Rosso 2006 (€14.50) was too woody for me right now but there was a richness of matter which gives hope of better integration down the track; 14/20 now. Barolo 2004 (€28) was aromatically closed apart from wood but there was promisingly round brooding substance and tannic structure; 15/20 now with guessed 16/20+ potential. Barolo “Vigna Cucco” 2004 (€34) was similar yet more complex, profound and mouth-filling with an impressive body of spicy and tarry dark fruit; 15.5/20 + with guessed 17/20 potential, QPR.
Luciano Landi, Belvedere Ostrense (AN), Marche http://www.aziendalandi.it/en/
Lacrima is a grape variety new to me and, on this basis, I would like to know more. Lacrima di Morro d’Alba 2008 (€10) was fresh, round, raisiny and fragrant with original aromas of violets roses and oriental spices; 15.5/20 QPR. Torre di Re 2006 (€11), made from Lacrima and Montepulciano, toned down the fragrance of the previous and showed more body and structure 15/20+. Gavigliano 2007 (€13), made from Lacrima, showed even more oriental spice and fragrance than the first with rounder fruit and more body; 16/20 QPR. I was less sure about Goliardo 2004 (€20), made from Montepulciano 80%, CabSauv and Merlot, because of notes of stinky cabbage (oxidisation?) which marred the tarry full fruit; 13/20. Nice people here.
Fattoria di Magliano, Magliano in Toscana (GR) http://www.fattoriadimagliano.it/xl/index.html
Morellino di Scansano “Heba” 2007 (€12), Sangioveses with 15% Syrah, showed rich fruit with touches of English fruit cake together with good acidity and freshness; 15.5/20++. Sinara 2007 (€15), made from Sangiovese and Peteit Verdot, was fresher than the previous with more roundness and tannic structure; 16/20. Perenzo 2007 (€37), made from Syrah and seeing new wood, showed full body and a good depth of spicy dark fruit with the wood well integrated; 16/20+. Poggio Bestiale 2006 (€30), a Bordeaux blend, showed complex fruit and firm structure with wood notes more apparent than on the previous but not offensive; 16/20. Nice people.
Domaine Trapet, Riquewihr, Alsace (biodynamic) http://www.domaine-trapet.com/alsace.htm (in French)
Riesling Riquewihr 2006 (€13) was fresh, floral and spicy showing fresh acidity, honeyed and mineral notes together with structure; 15.5/20++. Riesling Grand Cru Shoenenbourg 2006 (€30) was more subdued at present but more complex adding notes of iodine and bright minerals together with gentle RS; potentially 16/20++.
Côtes d’Auxerre 2007 – Domaine Goisot (€10,50), from Chardonnay, should have been served before the Rieslings and in this position its creamy white fruit suffused with minerals could be mistaken for blandness; 15.5/20.
Coteaux du Languedoc Pic Saint-Loup “Simon” 2005 – Clos Marie (€18), made from Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, showed tangy, mouth-filling dark fruit, full body, structure and length with touches of spice and candy; 16/20.
Coteaux du Languedoc Pézenas “Fine Amor” 2007 – Domaine Lacroix Vanel (€11). This is a new estate for me and I was impressed by this cuvée from Grenache, Mourvèdre and Syrah; sweetly piquant Grenache dominated fruit with spice and liquorice; 15.5/20++ QPR.
Minervois “La Nine” 2006 – Domaine Jean-Baptiste Senat (€10), made by another estate new to me from Grenache, Syrah and old Carignan, was deliciously tangy, fruity and spicy with an ivy touch; 16/20 QPR!!
Morgon 2007 – Domaine Marcel Lapierre (€15) showed surprisingly light colour and body but lovely minerals, red fruit with a touch of tomato and that velvety musky note which Otto describes as game birds’ blood. The caviste challenged my assertion that the body was light saying that I was over influenced by my eyes; 15.5/20++. (I was tempted to buy but I cannot get a cellar temperature of less than 14° in summer and have hence experienced irregularity with previous bottles.) http://www.marcel-lapierre.com/anglais/index.php .