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Saina
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by Saina » Tue Jun 02, 2009 3:32 pm
- Domaine des Ouleb Thaleb (Thalvin & Alain Graillot) Tandem Syrah du Maroc 2007 13% abv; 12,05€
Alain Graillot isn't a flying wine maker, but a biking wine maker. In 2004 he was biking in Morocco when he was persuaded by Thalvin that certain areas of Morocco could make excellent Syrah. There is an area near the Atlantic ocean, by the towns of Rummani and Binsliman, that has a relatively cool climate due to the oceanic influence and altitude of about 500m. Graillot was persuaded by Thalvin's oenologist, Jacques Poullaine, that in this area they could make an elegant Syrah in the Rhône style. I have now tasted 2005-2007 and have liked them all - perhaps the 2006 best of all for its peachy yet refreshing aromas.
I love the label! Quite a classic Syrah scent with some aromas of torrefaction or new oak (I seem to confuse these in Syrah quite often), but these aren't annoying - IIRC half the wine is matured in oak (the rest in concrete) of which about 10% is new. Dark fruit, some lovely, savoury olive scents. It starts out a little jammy, but calms down to a savoury style within an hour of opening. It never really develops the flamboyant peach aromas that the '06 had (which reminded me a bit of Côte-Rôtie!), but rather is a more sober and sombre style. Good structure, full bodied, savoury - it seems to be a pure example of the grape. I really enjoyed this - especially at this price!
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Joe Moryl
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by Joe Moryl » Tue Jun 02, 2009 10:54 pm
Your post reminded me that I had tried a previous vintage of this (by the glass in a NYC restaurant) wine and was also impressed. I recall olives and a bright citrus (orange blossom?) note that struck me as very unique. Maybe I'll need to seek out a bottle.
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Tim York
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by Tim York » Wed Jun 03, 2009 2:40 am
Here is my last year's WTN on a bottle of 2006 served blind after a horizontal tasting of CndP 2000.
And he reserved a surprise at the end just telling us that it was Syrah. There was full of generous warm fruit with candied touches, ample body and good balance with enough grip. We opined that it was from the South so we were very surprised when Alain Graillot was named; perhaps 2003. No it was Tandem Syrah du Maroc 2006 Domaine Ouled-Thaleb from his Moroccan joint venture; 15/20.
It is certainly worth seeking out and would probably shine more outside the shade caast by several fine CndP.
Tim York
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