2004 Jean-Pierre Robinot l’Ange Vin Coteaux du Loir Rasné Chenin Blanc 13.0%
Decanted for four hours. Complex aromas of almonds, dried figs, spices, oxidation, pourriture (as in rotting apples) and, strangely, a wallop of vanilla. Good acidity, very satisfying body. Interesting and original, but the vanilla is too much for me. I wonder if this was fermented in a brand new barrel for way too long.
2002 Claude Courtois Les Cailloux du Paradis Quartz Sauvignon Blanc 12.4%
Oxidized. Courtois bottles don’t show the vintage, only the corks (the store label just says NV). For some reason I had this down as a 2005, and would not have taken the risk with a 2002. Jenny & François Imports would do well to disclose the vintage on the label. The cork was in bad shape and seemed of very poor quality, with many little lateral holes.
2007 Monastero Suore Cistercensi S.O. Trappiste Coenobium Rusticum Lazio IGT 13.5%
Thanks to Keith M. for pioneering this one. The name gives German Rieslings a run for their money. Labels says “55% Trebbiano, 15% Verdicchio, 20% Malvasia, 10% Grechetto, cultivated on the cloister’s vineyards using natural methods, without chemical treatments.” Fermented 15 days on its skins, with assistance from the renowned Paulo Bea of Montevallo. Decanted for four hours. Well, there’s Blue Nun and there’s Orange Nun. This shows very interesting aromas of orange blossom, orange peel, airplane glue/lacquer, acetone, pourriture, all miraculously (thank the lewd) flowing into a harmonious whole instead of the sinkhole. Excellent acidity and mouth-filling body, with some lively peppery and, lo and behold, that rarity, white wine tannins. Most original and satisfying, intellectually and sensually, my WOTN.
2004 Nicolas Joly Savonnières Clos du Coulée de Serrant Chenin Blanc 14.5%
Decanted for 14 hours. Cork fairly stained but the muted nose shows no signs of oxidation, only light almonds and vanilla, later some caramel and quince. Color is lovely deep amber with orange highlights. Served at 15C, as suggested on back label. Elegant nose of apricot and spices mixed with honey/caramel and extremely light oxidation. Certainly not what I would expect from a dry white Savennières but almost orthodox in this wild company. Refined mouth feel, slightly reminiscent of sherry, great body and balance. My first Coulée, so have no frame of reference, but half the eight people present chose this as their WOTN (the other half chose the nuns).
2005 Jean-Pierre Robinot l’Opéra des Vins Concerto d’Oniss Pinot d’Aunis 13.0%
Double-decanted two hours before serving. Attractive aromas of church incense leather and funk. Some secondary fermentation bubbles. Great acidity, quite pleasing. Cool.
2003 Claude Courtois Les Cailloux du Paradis Racines 13.0%
Double-decanted two hours before serving. Also thought this was 2005 before the (again poor quality) cork told me otherwise. Fascinating and complex nose of ripe raspberry, iodine, prunes, epoxy, tar and toast. Nice acidity but problematic in the mouth, with a strong note somewhere between burnt matzos and wet cardboard, possibly the result of malolactic fermentation in the bottle (according to an article I have on wine defects). Unsanitary winemaking, cheap corks and good intentions make poor bedfellows.