WTN: Buty Call

[Jenise]

2007 Buty Chardonnay, Connor Lee Vineyard, Washington
My first Buty, and now I'm quite sorry to have not visited the winery on our Walla Walla trip. Loved this chardonnay: very minerally with concentrated apple, white nectarine and citrus flavors; big and crisp with virtually no oak. Clean and classy. The 14.4% alcohol wasn't apparent (though admittedly when we drank it, it wasn't the first wine of the night.) Purchased for opening for friends in California at the Vino Volo wine lounge at SeaTac airport, after having a glass of:

2007 Seven Hills Riesling, Washington
Taut and racy, I enjoyed the wine while not finding what I'd consider real riesling character here. That is, it is lean and tastes of green apple juice with lemons, and has little or none of the attributes I associate with riesling, but it was very refreshing and at the time that was exactly what I needed. Wouldn't mind having again, but hard to justify at $22/bottle.

My first Buty

I'm not going to touch that.

These venues are popping up more and more. I like the idea that I can get a decent glass of wine during a layover. However, I was not enamored of their prices. And while the selection and quality is definitely a step up from normal airport fare, it didn't seem to be at the level of a "serious" wine bar.

And thanks for the notes....sound like nice wines that I'll have to find locally except for the $22 price tag for an atypical Riesling. Can probably get the same experience from a less expensive SB.

[Jenise]

My first Buty

I'm not going to touch that.

These venues are popping up more and more. I like the idea that I can get a decent glass of wine during a layover. However, I was not enamored of their prices. And while the selection and quality is definitely a step up from normal airport fare, it didn't seem to be at the level of a "serious" wine bar.

And thanks for the notes....sound like nice wines that I'll have to find locally except for the $22 price tag for an atypical Riesling. Can probably get the same experience from a less expensive SB.

Mike,

Have you been to the place I am talking about? SeaTac has two wine bars now, the other's outside the Security line and pours more of the easily accessible usual suspects. But Vino Volo, which is inside the Security barrier and therefore perfect for people like me who often have serious lags between my commuter hop and the main flight, is really definitely what I'd call the level of a serious wine bar, which is why it draws me like a magnet. The wine selection, both in terms of what's available for sale (I also bought a bottle of you-never-this-at-retail Rochioli chardonnay--it can't get much geekier than that) and what they have by the glass and in flights, always has some better known and lesser known boutique names in Pacific Northwest wine and something I'd like to try. And though yes the prices aren't screaming deals (more like straight MSRP or MSRP+$5) considering where one is and what the alternatives are I don't have an issue with that. My glass of the Seven Hills Riesling was $7. That's what you'd pay for a glass of cheap plonk in any other airport venue, maybe less!

[David M. Bueker]

Sounds like a good deal. There's a wine bar in Dulles (DC) that has some good stuff, but the pricing isn't nearly as attractive.

My first Buty

I'm not going to touch that.

These venues are popping up more and more. I like the idea that I can get a decent glass of wine during a layover. However, I was not enamored of their prices. And while the selection and quality is definitely a step up from normal airport fare, it didn't seem to be at the level of a "serious" wine bar.

And thanks for the notes....sound like nice wines that I'll have to find locally except for the $22 price tag for an atypical Riesling. Can probably get the same experience from a less expensive SB.

Mike,

Have you been to the place I am talking about? SeaTac has two wine bars now, the other's outside the Security line and pours more of the easily accessible usual suspects. But Vino Volo, which is inside the Security barrier and therefore perfect for people like me who often have serious lags between my commuter hop and the main flight, is really definitely what I'd call the level of a serious wine bar, which is why it draws me like a magnet. The wine selection, both in terms of what's available for sale (I also bought a bottle of you-never-this-at-retail Rochioli chardonnay--it can't get much geekier than that) and what they by the glass and in flights, always has some better known and lesser known boutique names in Pacific Northwest wine and something I'd like to try. And though yes the prices aren't screaming deals (more like straight MSRP or MSRP+$5) considering where one is and what the alternatives are I don't have an issue with that. My glass of the Seven Hills Riesling was $7. That's what you'd pay for a glass of plonky $10-a-bottle Washington white in any other airport venue.

Jenise,

I was in a Vino Volo sometime last year but I cannot remember which airport. I do recall they were in about 16 airports at the time. I agree that they are definitely the best alternative in the airports, light years better than any wine I have had in any alternate establishments in an airport. And I hope they don't go under.

I wonder if there is a regional bent to their offerings....your comments about PNW wines triggers that. Wherever I was, I don't remember a lot of PNW on the list.

I've met the winemaker, Caleb Foster, and my sense is that Buty (and their alter ego, Beast) ranks at or near the top of the Walla Walla winemaking community. I always try to go there to taste, though it's a small operation and some summers (when I visit) they're completely out of stock so the tasting room is closed. Of the wines I've had (mostly reds such as their Rediviva of the Stones bottling and their Cab Franc-Merlot), I'd say they're marked by a light hand on the oak and relatively good balance and complexity.

[Jenise]

Jenise,

I wonder if there is a regional bent to their offerings....your comments about PNW wines triggers that. Wherever I was, I don't remember a lot of PNW on the list.

I'm sure regionality is allowed--like I said, I know for a fact that this one's locally owned and operated. And the offerings are about 70% PNW. He also carries a few non PNW wines, and always with at least a few names that raise my eyebrows be they hard to get like Rochioli or Etude pinot noir rose, or fashionable among the kind of person who hangs out on this board like Felsina chianti. If anything, what's remarkable is the complete absence of stupid/corporate brands or the kind of wine that has "cheap close out" written all over it.

[Jenise]

I'd say they're marked by a light hand on the oak and relatively good balance and complexity.

You remarked much to that effect in your response to one of my Walla Walla Weekend posts, and that's precisely why I picked up this chardonnay when I saw it so thank you. I do have a red or two of his in my cellar, but I bought them on speculation and haven't opened them yet. I look forward to it!

I did try out Legal Seafood in Boston Logan for lunch yesterday and had a glass of Muscadet with my calamari salad (followed by a slice of key lime pie.)

I was impressed by the wine list, including the wines by the glass, at Liam Maguire's Restaurant and Pub in Falmouth Village, MA one evening (not what I expect at an Irish pub.) I had an Albarino with my stuffed Quahog and Asian chicken salad but they also had a Sancerre by the glass and a number of other interesting wines by the glass or bottle.