WTN: 3 from Julicher, Martinborough NZ: Ries, SB, Pinot Noir

Having a Finnish winemaker, Outi Jakovirta, Julicher has seen quite a bit of press over here - though I haven't seen any reports elsewhere! These wines were very correct and had leanings towards the French "ideals", yet they had personalities of their own. Curmudgeon that I am, I did have slight misgivings, though on the whole they were successful wines.

• 2007 Julicher Estate Riesling - New Zealand, North Island, Wairarapa, Martinborough (5/11/2009)
  12% abv; screw cap; ( label ). This smells of lemongrass and candied limes. Though I would ideally have less of the candied aspect, I still find it pleasurable. Dry, varietally true, with full fruit, deliciously juicy acidity, perhaps the slightest touch of RS so that the fruit is very friendly despite all the crisp citrus flavours. Nice! Not a great Riesling, but I still enjoyed it.
• 2008 Julicher Estate Sauvignon Blanc - New Zealand, North Island, Wairarapa, Martinborough (5/11/2009)
  14% abv; 6,7g/l acidity; screw cap; ( label ). Light as water. I like the scent, though I'm not usually a fan of the grape. It has some minerality or sea-breeze/seashell or some such oceanic aroma mixed to the ripe, grassy, citrussy, almost Loire-SB aroma. This isn't an in-your-face mix of gooseberry, cats' piss and tropical fruit, but is rather refined and elegant in my limited experience of NZ SB. I was therefore quite surprised at the sheer weight on the palate: full bodied and not as electric as I hoped and expected, but not lifeless either, just curiously round. They apparently use a bit of French oak, to "impart some mid-palate roundness." Though the oak isn't obvious, I can't help but think that I would have enjoyed this more without the roundness. Long and mineral. Despite my slight criticism, it wasn't bad at all.
• 2006 Julicher Estate Pinot Noir - New Zealand, North Island, Wairarapa, Martinborough (5/11/2009)
  14-14,5% abv depending on the source; 6,1g/l acidity; under screw cap; ( label ). This doesn't start out very promisingly for my taste as cranberry jam aromas are all I initially perceive. An hour of exposure to air opens up the hidden dimensions. The fruit gains a savoury, earthy edge and the lovely beetroot aromas of the grape appear whereas the jam goes into hiding. Sadly, also, the toasty oak does come forward (13 months in 50% new French oak) but in almost inoffensive amounts even for me though I very much dislike any obvious oak aromas. Full body, lots of sweet Pinosity, lively acidity, more obvious oak than on the scent. This is a big Pinot, but I did find it quite intriguing and can see myself enjoying this in a couple years if the oak will follow the jam into hiding.

Posted from CellarTracker

Nope, neither I haven't heard of Julicher before. Thanks for the notes. I'll try them if the manage to get across the Baltic Sea.
Cheers,
Anders

Julicher is becoming well known in New Zealand - but mainly for its Pinot Noir.
The 2006 vintage was overseen by winemaker Oliver Masters, whose name has been entwined with the rather lauded Ata Rangi for many many years although he now has a consultant rather than full time role with Ata Rangi.
The 2006 vintage for Julicher was also one of the most successful on the wine show circuit - with golds from at least two shows and a couple of trophies too. I think that when you get a good Martinborough Pinot Noir, it really does excel in a blind wine tasting lineup (such as they are done at shows) - they seem to have more depth, earth, tannin and structure than many of the Marlborough and Central Otago counterparts.
Regards,
Sue

PS Otto - you've say you haven't seen any reports elsewhere - do they not return any results in Google?

Anders, I don't they are actually available here, even though there has been a bit of buzz about the wines!

Sue, yes, of course Google has plenty on them. It was imprecisely stated, but I was referring to the major wine fora which have little or nothing on them. Even CellarTracker had just two TNs before I entered these three.