We went to Walla Walla for the Spring Barrel Tasting this weekend, and it's my first trip to the southeastern sector and principal wine growing area of my new home state. I took notes throughout but depending on the level of distraction around me (we were part of a group of anywhere from 6 to 10 people, depending on the day), and the time of day, I took better notes on some wines than others. Some only got a letter grade, the system by which I keep track while in mega-tasting mode. The grading is less absolute than comparative, intending mostly to help me keep track within a line-up or across the broader range of a day the relative ranking of the wines I tried.
On arrival Thursday night, we quickly found the restored 1901 house in downtown Walla Walla we'd rented with two other couples, tossed our bags in, and went straight to a private "Vintners Party" at Dunham Winery, a rather spectacular crab and oyster feed amidst the fermenting tanks held for local vintners and growers, to which a few lucky out of towners like us also wrangled invitations. We were immediately shown which tank held the 08 Dry Riesling and how to work the spigot--that was the white of the night to which we were to help ourselves as needed. Now that's what I call civilized.
The 08 Dunham Dry Riesling is actually a blend--apparently, the harvest yielded a wine so acid-driven it would have melted my gums had Eric not blended back some LH riesling to achieve better balance. Thankfully he didn't overdo it--the wine is still taut. Dry and crisp with clean riesling flavors and not a spot of RS. Very good to excellent.
On Sunday morning we went back to the winery to taste like regular civilians.
06 Four Legged White, 85/15 Riesling/Chardonnay
Wouldn't have guessed it wasn't all riesling. Very nice, but with a bit of the sweetness I always associate with Dunham whites and which isn't something I care for. I hope once bottled the 08 stays as dry as it seemed in the tank. C
07 Shirley Mays Chardonnay
Named for Eric's grandmother who died of breast cancer, this wine features the high alcohol (14.9%) and RS I've always objected to in Dunham chardonnays. Nicely made but all wrong for my palate, so no grade.
06 Trutino, 49% Cab/40% Merlot/7% Syrah
'Trutino' is latin for balance, and this wine is a well balanced red. Best Trutino I've had and the best under-$30 cab-based wine of the weekend. I believe it retails around $24. B+
05 Dunham Cabernet Sauv, regular label
Showing better than a year ago, ample and rich but not over the top, and good structure. Good now but will lay down for ten years easy. B++
06 Merlot, art label*
This is serious, serious merlot, and one of the best I've had in Washington state. Proof what a mistake it was to ditch all those promising merlot vineyards for syrah. Miles was wrong. A+. I bought six.
05 Syrah, Frenchtown Vineyard, art label
Well wait just a doggone minute. THIS IS SYRAH? I've had Dunham syrahs, in fact I had three excellent library versions on Thursday night that I never got around to writing down, and they're black and massive. This isn't huge. Rather, it's medium bodied with a heady, aromatic nose of flowers and spice, and some red fruit and a little more acid than usual in this state. It reminds me of...Cornas. Cornas? Here? Yes! I comment thusly and am rewarded with smiles from all the winery people. The Frenchtown vineyard is not usually bottled alone, but what I loved about it is what convinced them this was special enough to bottle separately. Smitten, I order half a case of this too and officially become one of the Crazy People who have paid big moolah for domestic syrah. A+
05 Syrah, regular label
Big, rich and balanced. Very good but now that I've been French-kissed by the other, just eh. B.
*Dunham's art label wines are mostly only available to club members or at the winery and command a premium over the regular Dunham label.