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WTN: OR, CA, and Piedmont reds; Sardinian white, Burg pink

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Dale Williams

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WTN: OR, CA, and Piedmont reds; Sardinian white, Burg pink

by Dale Williams » Mon Apr 20, 2009 4:41 pm

Saturday Betsy made tuna kebabs (are they still kebabs if separate skewers for the tuna with a citrus/thyme marinade, mushrooms, squash, with the onions and peppers sharing?) plus a bit of brown rice. Beautiful day in NY, and we sat on patio for first time this year. Tuna usually makes me think soft/low tannin red, but the marinade might be challenging, so I went with the patio theme and the 2007 Domaine Bart Marsannay Rose. Strawberries in cream, but the creaminess is more texture, and there's plenty of acidity here. Good length, concentration for a pink, I like. B

Sunday I picked up some homeless friends in the city for a meeting, drove to Pleasantville, then after meeting (someone else drove guys back) hitched a ride to Nyack, where Betsy's sextet "String Theory" had a concert. After the concert there was a little reception, a local wine shop had donated the wine, I avoided the Frontera white, but tried the 2005 Ten Mile red. Juicy red berry fruit, a bit of spice, a bit tannic. Seemed more Zin-ish than Bdx varieties. Not long or complex, but certainly drinkable. B-

I rode back to Westchester with Bets, and since neither of us had any time for cooking we tried out a new restaurant in our town. The Cookery has good, not especially complex, Italian inspired cooking. I had a rustic grilled pizzette with clams and garlic, followed by a pork shank (we eat a lot of lamb and veal shanks , but I don't recall ever having a pork shank) with polenta. Betsy had a bean/bacon/escarole soup and short ribs.

I started with the 2007 Sella & Mosca Vermentino. Served a bit too cold, lighter styled, good acidity, a bit dilute but ok flavor base of pears and citrus. Acceptable,. B-

Betsy's wine was the 2006 Campo Verde Dolcetto. This on the other hand was a bit too warm, but I'm not sure that temp would have made that much difference. Low acids, some tannins, blueberries and black plums with a bit of a green asparagus note. Not finished. C/C+

With my pork I had a glass of the (2007 I think) Erath Pinot Noir. Lighter styled PN, bright cherry and raspberry fruit, a hint of pleasant herbiness (I'd say garrigue if this was a Rhone note :) ) , not especially long on the finish but clean and fresh. This was finished.:)
B+/B


Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.
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Re: WTN: OR, CA, and Piedmont reds; Sardinian white, Burg pink

by Jenise » Mon Apr 20, 2009 5:49 pm

Can't comment on the wines as I've not had them (well, I've had the Erath in other vintages and your characterization suits them all), but re the pork shank: like it's friends in the other animal departments, it's a great cut. Had it last (and best) at a German restaurant in one of Washington's German communities where it was served melt in your mouth tender and with incredible crispy skin. I don't even know how to get it to that stage (might have been deepfried first), but man was it terrific.
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Re: WTN: OR, CA, and Piedmont reds; Sardinian white, Burg pink

by Dale Williams » Mon Apr 20, 2009 6:26 pm

Jenise wrote: melt in your mouth tender and with incredible crispy skin.


Sums up this dish. Next time I go to The Pork Store I'm bringing home shanks
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Re: WTN: OR, CA, and Piedmont reds; Sardinian white, Burg pink

by David M. Bueker » Mon Apr 20, 2009 9:07 pm

I had pork shank for dinner (out) last week. Loved it.
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Re: WTN: OR, CA, and Piedmont reds; Sardinian white, Burg pink

by Robert Reynolds » Mon Apr 20, 2009 10:56 pm

In my hometown there used to be a "meat & three" place that on Sundays always had as one of it's offerings a big pot of pork shanks (removed from the skin and bones) swimming in broth, and served up school cafeteria-style (like everything else) to the after-church crowd. Who knew we were actually eating high on the hog, as it were? :roll: :wink:
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Re: WTN: OR, CA, and Piedmont reds; Sardinian white, Burg pink

by Dave R » Mon Apr 27, 2009 2:59 pm

Jenise wrote:... but re the pork shank: like it's friends in the other animal departments, it's a great cut. Had it last (and best) at a German restaurant in one of Washington's German communities where it was served melt in your mouth tender and with incredible crispy skin. I don't even know how to get it to that stage (might have been deepfried first), but man was it terrific.


I make a rendition of that based upon what my German Grandmother made years ago. I brine the shank over night and then simmer it in a pot of oil and herbs for most of an afternoon. At the end I crank up the heat and get the oil nice and hot. I deep fry the shank for about 5 minutes and that is what makes it very crispy on the outside but melt in your mouth tender on the inside. It is probably my favorite way to eat pork shank.
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Re: WTN: OR, CA, and Piedmont reds; Sardinian white, Burg pink

by SteveEdmunds » Mon Apr 27, 2009 7:54 pm

OK; I give up! What was the CA wine?
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Re: WTN: OR, CA, and Piedmont reds; Sardinian white, Burg pink

by Dale Williams » Mon Apr 27, 2009 11:14 pm

Dave,
I'm picking up shanks next time I'm at The Pork Store, your recipe is going to get a try.

Steve,
10 Mile red,.
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Re: WTN: OR, CA, and Piedmont reds; Sardinian white, Burg pink

by David M. Bueker » Tue Apr 28, 2009 7:54 am

Dale Williams wrote:The Pork Store


Oh mercy - where is this temple of porcine salvation?
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Re: WTN: OR, CA, and Piedmont reds; Sardinian white, Burg pink

by Dale Williams » Tue Apr 28, 2009 9:07 am

I'm referring to A & S Italian Pork Store, on Central Ave in Yonkers (a semi-chain, family members own different ones around metro area).
Even better IMO is Esposito's Pork Shop on 9th Ave, but not as convenient.

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