Whiskey and cocktail stuff

Had a little while to kill in a bar waiting for some folks, so I decided to indulge in a cocktail.

Small bar, but a few interesting things available. So I decided to be creative.

Asked for a Jack Daniel's Manhattan, straight up, but went a little further when I noticed they had Carpano Antico.

Manhattan fanciers come in different guises, what with the "Classic" Manhattan, the Manhattan Rocks, the "Perfect" Manhattan, etc.. So in line with the Perfect, which is an attempt to make a drier style of Manhattan (lighter to none on the sweet red vermouth, addition of dry white vermouth), I figured the softer, sippin' whiskey smoothness of the Jack (disclosure: one of my company's primary products) with the dry, complex, and fascinating Antico, might be interesting.

I was right! The cocktail was delivered up and with a twist of lemon instead of the usual cherry. And that was the right touch. What with the smoother, slightly lighter style of whiskey (than Rye or Bourbon, I mean) and with the addition of the intriguing Carpano Antico, it was definitely drier, much crisper, white flower floral, whiff of dried citrus and wormwood and gentian, and with a dry/bitter finish not common in the more standard version of a Manhattan. I liked it, I did.

I think I'll call my version a "Pale Rider" (I know, there's probably an extant cocktail a la this, but who cares: This one is mine!).

Even better, when the bartendress was mixing it up a bar denizen with a martini asked, "What's that stuff?", and got an explanation of Antico, then got offered a teensy taste. Can't say he like the bitterness all that much, but, hey, he was exposed to something different!


With my work then done, and my companions arriving, we went to our table and enjoyed a lovely dinner.

Now you're talking! My wife's cocktail of choice for winter months is the Brandy Manhattan, rocks. (You can take the girl out of Wisconsin....) Since I mix the cocktails and she has one of these before dinner pretty much every day, I've been exploring different blends of whiskey and vermouth for my own drinking. The Carpano is great stuff - the most interesting vermouth out there. Vya is another good one that's very flavorful, but I like the Carpano a bit more (and they're not too far off in price). My current favorite whiskey for this is the Rittenhouse 100 proof rye, with Wild Turkey Rye coming in second. What I have yet to do is move into other whiskeys for these. In bars, I'll often order Maker's Mark for a Manhattan but that's about the limit of my experience. I'll have to get a bottle of Jack and see how it goes.

Yes, I think Vya is pretty good homegrown stuff too, Mark.

And I would think a brandy manhattan (having spent 7 years in Milwaukee, I know about brandy and manhattans ) would definitely benefit from Carpano, since the combo of sweet brandy---they usually use inexpensive American, therefore sweet stuff-- and sweet vermouth would be daunting to anyone who doesn't have a markedly sweet tooth.

My more or less standard preferred vermouth when I'm out and about is Noilly Prat. Unfortunately, what I'm seeing these days is the tendency for bars to default to what I consider crap vermouths---like Lejon, for instance----to save on bar costs. And that, sadly, in some pretty high-toned bars too!

I was in a local place, where they don't have blenders, don't do frozen drinks, brag about how they hand squeeze all their citrus for drinks, blah blah blah. Then when I order a cocktail they whip out a bottle of Lejon to pour into my Woodford Manhattan! What the hell?

D'ja ever tip a little bit of the maraschino juice into your wife's manhattan, Mark? Try it; she might just love it. But please, be judicious.

You can also try Luxardo---but it's pretty hefty to buy a full bottle of that stuff of the shelve only to find out you don't like it. Don't know if they make any minis or not, for you to research.

You're a wise man to buy the Rittenhouse 100. I think that's just about as good as it gets for Rye; esepcially so when you consider the price, eh? Lots of Rye out there in fancy bottles and stellar price tags that don't deliver nearly as much poor absolute quality as Rittenhouse does.

Yes, I think Vya is pretty good homegrown stuff too, Mark.

You callin' me, Hoke?

And I would think a brandy manhattan (having spent 7 years in Milwaukee, I know about brandy and manhattans ) would definitely benefit from Carpano, since the combo of sweet brandy---they usually use inexpensive American, therefore sweet stuff-- and sweet vermouth would be daunting to anyone who doesn't have a markedly sweet tooth.

Can either of you two explain to me Wisconsin's fascination with brandy-based cocktails? I've got a friend, a Wisconsin native, who's drink of choice is a blackberry brandy Alexander (yes, he's got a sweet tooth). What's up with Wisconsin and brandy anyway?

Mark Lipton

Yes, I think Vya is pretty good homegrown stuff too, Mark.

You callin' me, Hoke?

And I would think a brandy manhattan (having spent 7 years in Milwaukee, I know about brandy and manhattans ) would definitely benefit from Carpano, since the combo of sweet brandy---they usually use inexpensive American, therefore sweet stuff-- and sweet vermouth would be daunting to anyone who doesn't have a markedly sweet tooth.

Can either of you two explain to me Wisconsin's fascination with brandy-based cocktails? I've got a friend, a Wisconsin native, who's drink of choice is a blackberry brandy Alexander (yes, he's got a sweet tooth). What's up with Wisconsin and brandy anyway?

Mark Lipton

[Sorry. Name. Begins with M. Any name will do.]

Antifreeze.

Spend a couple of days ice fishing in Wisconsin. Or just stand around the lakeshore of Lake Michigan and it instantly becomes more understandable.

And not just brandy, but American brandy! Well, maybe a little French, but then only the cheap stuff.

Seriously, Mark, I think it might go back to the plethora of ethnic minorities there that have managed to keep a semblance of their cultural origins intact far longer than most groups do. And in Milwaukee, with the Polish, Serbo-Croatian, Swiss and especially German ethnics, they are acculturated more to traditionally drinking brandies (both grape and non-grape, as in slivovitz, tuica, eau-de-vie, etc.) than whiskies. I believe that was the genesis of the brandy fixation in that area.

All I know is if you don't specify in WIsconsin when you order a Manhattan, you'll likely get a Brandy Manhattan. And when i did ice racing (with an open top Morgan, no less; don't ask, stupid years) I wouldn't go out without a pint or hipflask of peach or apricot brandy in my parka jacket.

I don't really know what it is with Wisconsin people and brandy, either. And my experience jibes with Hoke's - it's almost certainly going to be Paul Masson or Korbel. None of this fancy-ass cone-yak stuff.

I remember the first Wisconsin wedding I went to. My wife asked me to go get her an Old Fashioned. I knew of two ways of making them - one in which you use whiskey, a little bitters, and some sugar and a second involving muddling orange slices and cherries. I got in line for the bar and noticed that the bartender was basically making one drink. He took a plastic cup, filled it with ice, shook Angostura bitters over it until the ice was painted black, added a shot of brandy, and filled the glass with 7-Up. I asked the woman next to me what he was making and she gave me a very surprised look and said "That's an Old Fashioned! You're not from around here, are you?"

I don't really know what it is with Wisconsin people and brandy, either. And my experience jibes with Hoke's - it's almost certainly going to be Paul Masson or Korbel. None of this fancy-ass cone-yak stuff.

I remember the first Wisconsin wedding I went to. My wife asked me to go get her an Old Fashioned. I knew of two ways of making them - one in which you use whiskey, a little bitters, and some sugar and a second involving muddling orange slices and cherries. I got in line for the bar and noticed that the bartender was basically making one drink. He took a plastic cup, filled it with ice, shook Angostura bitters over it until the ice was painted black, added a shot of brandy, and filled the glass with 7-Up. I asked the woman next to me what he was making and she gave me a very surprised look and said "That's an Old Fashioned! You're not from around here, are you?"

****shudder****

Yeah, that's your basic Wisconsin "Old Fashion" right enough. There doesn't seem to be any restraint necessary for Angostura up there. Someone should point out that the definition of bitters includes "not intended for singular consumption". You'd never know that the way they use it.

And the way you know you're in a tony upscale bar is when they put an orange slice in the 7Up before they serve the drink.

All of which is unfortunate, since a properly made (i.e., muddled fruit to start) Old Fashion can actually be a great drink. It has made a bit of a comeback lately, but still many bars don't know how to make one properly.

Mark: Don't know if this will work for you, but a seasoned bartender once told me he puts a sugar cube on a napkin, carefully puts a drop or two of bitters on the sugar cube. Whatever soaks into the napkin gets left behind, and you have just the right amount of sugars and bitters to make your drink left.

Of course, that was from a guy who thought you should actually taste the whiskey first and foremost.

Hoke, do you know who imports the Carpano Antico? I can not seem to locate a distributor in Illinois. Thanks, Paul

Hoke, do you know who imports the Carpano Antico? I can not seem to locate a distributor in Illinois. Thanks, Paul

No idea. It has only been intermittently available for the last several years. I heard that it was now available again, but I don't know who brings it in.

Not the same, but in a somewhat similar mode, you could try Ramazotti Amaro. That's somewhat available, I understand. Also, Punt e Mes by Carpano--sweeter than the Antico, though.

I buy it at Corti Brothers, but I don't have a bottle on hand to see who distributes it. I can check next time I'm in the store, FWIW.

With a little googling, I figured out that Diageo is the global company that imports it into the US, but they've been reluctant to bring in the Carpano Antica (and by the way, it's properly Antica, not Antico. My bad.). Guess they are doing it now if Corti Brothers has it available.

Same googling ticked me off in another way too, as I discovered---or actually was reminded---that Noilly Prat makes a special version called Noilly Ambre, that is darker, heavier, drier and considerably more bitter than the standard Noilly. And of course it is not avaialble in the US. Not widely available anywhere but Marseille, I understand. Dammit. Not going to be anywhere near there on my next trip.

With a little googling, I figured out that Diageo is the global company that imports it into the US, but they've been reluctant to bring in the Carpano Antica (and by the way, it's properly Antica, not Antico. My bad.). Guess they are doing it now if Corti Brothers has it available.

Same googling ticked me off in another way too, as I discovered---or actually was reminded---that Noilly Prat makes a special version called Noilly Ambre, that is darker, heavier, drier and considerably more bitter than the standard Noilly. And of course it is not avaialble in the US. Not widely available anywhere but Marseille, I understand. Dammit. Not going to be anywhere near there on my next trip.

GAAAH!

(Just got back from the Marseille area.)

Have you tried the re-formulated Noilly Prat Dry Vermouth yet, Hoke? I don't make many drinks that use it, so I haven't noticed a difference. I understand that those who are really into such things can tell, though.

Not yet, Mike.

I was talking to the Bacardi rep, though, and he told me they are getting lots of commentary/reaction on it. Some good (going back to the trad recipe), some bad (why the *%#(@%&* did you change my vermouth, you idiots). So it must be obvious if it is polarizing people. But like you, I just don't use that much white vermouth.