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WTN: Graham Beck, Loring

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WTN: Graham Beck, Loring

by Jenise » Sun Apr 12, 2009 2:38 pm

For an aperitif, we opened a NV Graham Beck Rose from South Africa. When the discussion of Graham Beck's sparklers came up several weeks ago, a quick internet check didn't discover their rose available in the U.S., so it was a pleasant surprise to run into this at Whole Foods Market in Seattle a few weeks ago at $20ish. Like the white, it has robust fruit, a fine and persistent bubble, creamy mousse and dry finish. But it distinguishes itself from it's sister with a more pronounced pinot noir character. Excellent for the price.

To go with our dinner of honey-drizzled ham baked on the barbecue, we opened a 2004 Loring Rosella's pinot noir. I've not had this wine before, but I'm a big fan of the August West Rosella's pinots and hoped this wine would have similar qualities. It does! It's in a GREAT place right now. First of all, the color's worth noting: it's a pretty garnet color with orange edges, almost an aged Rioja kind of color. On the nose and palate, it's very pinotish but with a lot more strawberry than you typically find in California fruit with an iron-vitamin kind of minerality and good spice. In texture, the wine's incredibly silky though when you force yourself to think about it, the acid and tannins are there they're just under more layers of silk than you're used to. Also notable, it's surprisingly sweet, more in the attack and mid palate than the finish; and where I'd prefer less of that normally, with the ham and roasted yams it was a very good fit even if not one I planned for. And though it drinks perfectly right now, it's picking up some fine secondary nuances and even more interesting days could be ahead.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Diane (Long Island)

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Re: WTN: Graham Beck, Loring

by Diane (Long Island) » Sun Apr 12, 2009 3:13 pm

I love what Brian Loring does with Rosella's fruit and when you catch it at a good time, it has amazing spice and, to use your description, silkiness. I enjoyed the 2005 a few months ago when I brought it to a byo restaurant for lunch. I only planned on having one glass, but could not pass up a second. My 2004s are long gone.

August West has been another favorite of mine who does a great job with Rosella's, but a 2006 I opened several months ago was disappointing. My one and only disappointing August West. I have some '06 Graham's that I will hold on to in hope that the vintage is not showing well right now.
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Re: WTN: Graham Beck, Loring

by Jenise » Mon Apr 13, 2009 11:37 am

Diane (Long Island) wrote:I enjoyed the 2005 a few months ago when I brought it to a byo restaurant for lunch. I only planned on having one glass, but could not pass up a second.


Easily understood! The wine is so seductive and drinkable. Sometimes when I drink a wine like this, I realize how often I'm reaching to find/understand the wines I drink. That's a process I enjoy, but I don't mind when it crawls into my lap and curls up like a kitten, either. :) This one did that.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: WTN: Graham Beck, Loring

by David M. Bueker » Mon Apr 13, 2009 12:38 pm

Jenise wrote: I don't mind when it crawls into my lap and curls up like a kitten, either.


Lorings tend to hump your leg like a horny Golden Retriever.
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Re: WTN: Graham Beck, Loring

by Jason Hagen » Mon Apr 13, 2009 3:00 pm

Thanks for the Loring note. I appreciate your perspective. I am not always a fan of Rosellas or SLH but they are distinctive. I recently brought home the LWC and AP Vin 2004 Rosellas to drink together. I just realized I need to dig out the August West and do the trifecta.

The key is hitting on the right night with the right food.

Cheers,

Jason
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Re: WTN: Graham Beck, Loring

by James Dietz » Tue Apr 14, 2009 1:32 am

Jason has a visceral dislike of almost anything from the SLH.... so just ignore him!!! (He knows a little bit more about Oregon...but just a little.. 8) )

We had the Loring Rosella's about 6 months ago, and it was very good. No more of the baby fat that many younger Lorings show. I think about 5 years or so out is the perfect time for drinking those wines.

I like Rosella's fruit, and one of the best CA Pinots I've had is from that vineyard: 2007 Miner. It was simply awesome!!
Cheers, Jim
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Re: WTN: Graham Beck, Loring

by Jenise » Tue Apr 14, 2009 11:19 am

James Dietz wrote:We had the Loring Rosella's about 6 months ago, and it was very good. No more of the baby fat that many younger Lorings show. I think about 5 years or so out is the perfect time for drinking those wines.

I like Rosella's fruit, and one of the best CA Pinots I've had is from that vineyard: 2007 Miner. It was simply awesome!!


Interesting that you think five years is the perfect time--I remember Brian saying that as a winemaker he's aiming for his wines to peak about three years out because it's the young fresh fruit he loves. I have never counted on his wines to "be there" for me this far out, though the last Gary's I drank was 5-6, and it was tremendous. And Miner--you're still into them, eh? Is there any grape they don't make? I recall you bringing viogniers, chardonnays, cabernets--just about everything, but I don't recall pinot.
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Re: WTN: Graham Beck, Loring

by James Dietz » Tue Apr 14, 2009 11:28 am

Jenise wrote:
James Dietz wrote:We had the Loring Rosella's about 6 months ago, and it was very good. No more of the baby fat that many younger Lorings show. I think about 5 years or so out is the perfect time for drinking those wines.

I like Rosella's fruit, and one of the best CA Pinots I've had is from that vineyard: 2007 Miner. It was simply awesome!!


Interesting that you think five years is the perfect time--I remember Brian saying that as a winemaker he's aiming for his wines to peak about three years out because it's the young fresh fruit he loves. I have never counted on his wines to "be there" for me this far out, though the last Gary's I drank was 5-6, and it was tremendous. And Miner--you're still into them, eh? Is there any grape they don't make? I recall you bringing viogniers, chardonnays, cabernets--just about everything, but I don't recall pinot.


Brian, I think, likes his wine very fruit forward. I'm not sure they will age long, long term, but I really do like them after that 5 year mark.

Yeah, I'm still a Miner whore. They make stuff you don't even hear about (Portuguese varietals now!), but I think they have way more hits than misses. The 2007 Rosella's was just stunning. And I recent bought a 1997 Miner Pisoni Pinot on winebid.com that was also just tremendously complex and interesting. Those two, along with the 2003 Marcassin Marcassin, are the best New World Pinots I've had.

We had the 2007 Zenith Pinot from Oregon last night (we're doing a Pinot Month ala the Stones) that was extremely good. I almost didn't buy after having what I thought was an over-the-top, goopy 2006 from them, but this vintage is outstanding.
Cheers, Jim
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Re: WTN: Graham Beck, Loring

by Jenise » Tue Apr 14, 2009 11:41 am

James Dietz wrote:Brian, I think, likes his wine very fruit forward. I'm not sure they will age long, long term, but I really do like them after that 5 year mark.


He definitely does. Did the opposite of most people: started out on Burgundy, then grew to love and prefer California pinots.

Where is Miner based? From the wines you brought in the early days, I had it in my head that they were Sonoma based and had estate vineyards there. Interesting to see them getting their hands on all that fruit from further South. Re Marcassin, have only had the wines twice. Thought the one I had by itself was impressive, but the other when put into a lineup with other California and Oregon fruit was saturated, dense, freakish and easily surpassed by the complexity and nuance of other wines. IIRC, a Drouhin Laurene was my favorite.

Thanks for the tips re the Miners though, I pick up a lot of wine on the secondary market and it sounds like I should have these on my buy list.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: WTN: Graham Beck, Loring

by James Dietz » Tue Apr 14, 2009 1:03 pm

Jenise wrote:Where is Miner based? From the wines you brought in the early days, I had it in my head that they were Sonoma based and had estate vineyards there. Interesting to see them getting their hands on all that fruit from further South. Re Marcassin, have only had the wines twice. Thought the one I had by itself was impressive, but the other when put into a lineup with other California and Oregon fruit was saturated, dense, freakish and easily surpassed by the complexity and nuance of other wines. IIRC, a Drouhin Laurene was my favorite.

Thanks for the tips re the Miners though, I pick up a lot of wine on the secondary market and it sounds like I should have these on my buy list.


Miner is in Napa, on the Silverado Trail. I really enjoy the Oracle, which is a Bdx blend, and I picked up a bunch of the regular Cab bottling on winebid.com for $20. They can be expensive retail. They make a great inexpensive Rose. I'm not a big fan of the Syrah or Petite Sirah, but that is more of a general dislike I have for most CA Syrah or Pets.
Cheers, Jim
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Re: WTN: Graham Beck, Loring

by Jenise » Tue Apr 14, 2009 1:40 pm

James Dietz wrote:
Miner is in Napa, on the Silverado Trail. I really enjoy the Oracle, which is a Bdx blend, and I picked up a bunch of the regular Cab bottling on winebid.com for $20. They can be expensive retail. They make a great inexpensive Rose. I'm not a big fan of the Syrah or Petite Sirah, but that is more of a general dislike I have for most CA Syrah or Pets.


Haven't been back to Napa since Miner opened up shop there then. I feel the same about Cali-Syrahs and PS. Interesting that you're doing a whole month of pinot--trying to drink down your stock or are you testing their versatility?
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Re: WTN: Graham Beck, Loring

by James Dietz » Tue Apr 14, 2009 1:50 pm

Jenise wrote: Interesting that you're doing a whole month of pinot--trying to drink down your stock or are you testing their versatility?


A little of both, actually. I have way more CA Pinot than I want or need. But I remember you doing the same thing at one time, so I thought `let's make a virtue out of a vice' or whatever that saying is. And much like you, we've found that Pinot pretty much goes with almost anything. Pinot with more acid goes better, but that's true I suppose of any wine. But even the goopy ones can be ok with some foods. The matches haven't always been perfect, food and wine wise, but I think that has been the wine's fault, not the food's. At any rate, it has been fun. I've even tossed a couple of Burgundies in.
Cheers, Jim
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Re: WTN: Graham Beck, Loring

by Jenise » Wed Apr 15, 2009 8:19 am

James Dietz wrote: I have way more CA Pinot than I want or need.


I can't believe I'm hearing this. :)

But I remember you doing the same thing at one time, so I thought `let's make a virtue out of a vice' or whatever that saying is. And much like you, we've found that Pinot pretty much goes with almost anything.


It does. You can kill it with heat, but apart from that if you have a variety of pinots to choose from, most go at least pleasantly well with whatever food you put them next to. In short--they're not as fragile and finicky as we think.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov

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