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WTN: Leflaive, Turley, Monticello, BV, St. Hallet

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Bill Spohn

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WTN: Leflaive, Turley, Monticello, BV, St. Hallet

by Bill Spohn » Sat Apr 11, 2009 11:04 am

Monthly lunch notes.

2005 Hendry Napa Chardonnay – the lack of oak and presence of significant acidity had us thinking about other areas. Creditable Calchard in an international style.

2001 Ch. Carbonnieux – corked

2004 Bruno Colin Chassagne Montrachet en Remilly – sweet chard nose smooth in the mouth and with a spiciness,. Good length.

2002 Dom. Leflaive Meursault Prem. Cru Sous le Dos d’Ane – this little number from ‘under the donkey’s belly’ was very nice, although some of us had a bit of trouble dealing whit the sizeable hit of sulphur at first in the nose. There was nicely integrated fruit and mineral as well, it just wasn’t the first thing that hit your nose. This one had a nice creamy texture in the mouth and good length.

1997 Turley Conta Costa Zinfandel Duarte Vineyard – lighter in colour than it was in youth, hottish sweet nose labelled it as a southern clime wine, slightly browning edges as a wine with a bit of age, one taster pointed out the strawberries in the nose and we all agreed, and it had a nice long finish. Very tasty. Pity that people probably drank 99% of these wines within a couple of years of release, because some of them do pick up interest with age.

2000 Malvira Roero Mombeltrano – this wine from a producer one may have come across with the whites made from Arneis was a stumper with their Nebbiolo based wine. Spicy pepper in the nose had us wondering about the Rhone, but medium fruit and high acidity steered us toward Italy. Very dry finish and probably best with food, but very pleasant.

1985 Monticello Rioja Gran Reserva Especiale – Only the Spanish can integrate so much oak and have it work out well, Slightly stinky and then settling down to mature fruit and cigar boxes. Slightly astringent on palate.

1984 Beaulieu Vineyards Georges de Latour Cabernet – sweet warm nose, extracted almost ripasso style, good flavour concentration, fairly full bodied and tasty. Perhaps on the downhill side, but ageing gracefully.

1999 Behrens and Hitchcock Ode to Picasso – a wine made from 32% Syrah, 31% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, and 12% Cabernet Franc, and pretty much typifying the sort of California style I dislike. The wine was still purple at the edges with a jammy iodine nose and remains monolithic with no development, no interest, no differentiation, just a continuous shaft of flavour from beginning to end. Will appeal to those for whom intensity is sufficient justification.

1994 St. Hallets Old Block Shiraz – garnet colour and a slightly sweet typical mature Shiraz nose, no tannins left, fully mature. My impression was that it would have been better 5 years ago.

2004 von Schubert Maximin Grunhauser Abtsberg Auslese – this Mosel was a nice finish, not too sweet and with lots of acidity. More lemon than petrol in the nose, and a hint of spritz that can often be a bad sign, but it went away.

A fine meal featuring rabbit and sweetbread courses made it a very pleasant holiday lunch.
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Re: WTN: Lefalive, Turley, Monticello, BV, St. Hallet

by David M. Bueker » Sat Apr 11, 2009 11:15 am

Bill Spohn wrote:1997 Turley Conta Costa Zinfandel Duarte Vineyard... Pity that people probably drank 99% of these wines within a couple of years of release, because some of them do pick up interest with age.


Most of them become a VA riddled mess. You got very lucky.

Bill Spohn wrote:2004 von Schubert Maximin Grunhauser Abtsberg Auslese – this Mosel was a nice finish, not too sweet and with lots of acidity. More lemon than petrol in the nose, and a hint of spritz that can often be a bad sign, but it went away.


Spritz in German Riesling a bad sign? Maybe one in a thousand (or more) bottles perhaps, but 99.9% of the time it's just a little trapped CO2 that is extremely common in this type of wine. In all the thousands of German Rieslings I have opened there has been exactly one that had re-fermented.
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Re: WTN: Lefalive, Turley, Monticello, BV, St. Hallet

by Joshua Kates » Sat Apr 11, 2009 8:11 pm

no development, no interest, no differentiation, just a continuous shaft of flavour from beginning to end. Will appeal t hose for whom intensity is sufficient justification.


I really like that; it sums up a problematic style of wine making perfectly, especially the "shaft of flavor.
Thanks, Bill
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Re: WTN: Lefalive, Turley, Monticello, BV, St. Hallet

by Jenise » Sat Apr 11, 2009 10:01 pm

No time to post my notes right now, but Ken's wine, wasn't that a Bruno Colin? Or do the siblings both produce under the C-D label?
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: WTN: Lefalive, Turley, Monticello, BV, St. Hallet

by Bill Spohn » Sat Apr 11, 2009 10:14 pm

Jenise wrote:No time to post my notes right now, but Ken's wine, wasn't that a Bruno Colin? Or do the siblings both produce under the C-D label?


Not sure. Thought it was Bruno, but couldn't find anything but C-D out there? Any idea?
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Re: WTN: Lefalive, Turley, Monticello, BV, St. Hallet

by Jenise » Sun Apr 12, 2009 12:49 am

Bill, the label mosdef said Bruno Colin. Per what I heard Rob say, there was a split of properties and Bruno ended up with sole ownership (or control) of this vineyard.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: WTN: Lefalive, Turley, Monticello, BV, St. Hallet

by Tim York » Sun Apr 12, 2009 6:12 am

Bill Spohn wrote:2002 Leflaive Meursault Prem. Cru Sous le Dos d’Ane


Is that Olivier or Domaine Leflaive?
Tim York
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Bill Spohn

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Re: WTN: Lefalive, Turley, Monticello, BV, St. Hallet

by Bill Spohn » Sun Apr 12, 2009 8:53 am

Jenise wrote:Bill, the label mosdef said Bruno Colin. Per what I heard Rob say, there was a split of properties and Bruno ended up with sole ownership (or control) of this vineyard.


OK, thanks -corrected
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Re: WTN: Leflaive, Turley, Monticello, BV, St. Hallet

by Jenise » Sun Apr 12, 2009 9:19 am

You're up early!
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: WTN: Leflaive, Turley, Monticello, BV, St. Hallet

by Bill Spohn » Sun Apr 12, 2009 9:43 am

Jenise wrote:You're up early!


Gotta get them worms!

(site isn't set for DST)
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Re: WTN: Leflaive, Turley, Monticello, BV, St. Hallet

by David M. Bueker » Sun Apr 12, 2009 10:22 am

Bill Spohn wrote:(site isn't set for DST)


It says you posted at 6:43 PST. Check your User Control Panel. It has an option for DST.
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Re: WTN: Leflaive, Turley, Monticello, BV, St. Hallet

by Jenise » Mon Apr 13, 2009 11:58 am

I can't find my notes, so I'm going to wing it:

With house-made smoked lox-style salmon, ricotta cheese and pesto:

2005 Hendry Napa Chardonnay – disarmingly subdued pale yellow chardonnay with a creamy, malolactic presence, not at all California in style. Very good, but at $40, perhaps not good value.

2001 Ch. Carbonnieux – corked

2004 Bruno Colin Chassagne Montrachet en Remilly – lighter in color, sweeter and spicier than the first wine, but with crisper acidity. Very classy.

2002 Dom. Leflaive Meursault Prem. Cru Sous le Dos d’Ane – what you said.

With fried sweetbreads and mushrooms on a creamy square of polenta (I loved this dish):

1997 Turley Conta Costa Zinfandel Duarte Vineyard – Very Califorinia-ish and obviously older and in full secondary development with sweet fruit and some heat--I don't think I can be blamed for thinking this might be my wine (which I'd not had before). Quite appealing. Wasn't all that surprised when it turned out to be a Turley.

2000 Malvira Roero Mombeltrano – I've never had a nebbiolo like this. Very un-traditional in character, but not slick and modern either. A conundrum! And a nice one.

1985 Monticello Rioja Gran Reserva Especiale – Loved this. Cherry-cranberry-strawberry fruit with a bit of candied orange peel, dried nectarine and spice. Always a pleasure to taste a nicely aged traditional Rioja.

With a clever, holiday-inspired baked leg and thigh of rabbit in a pale sauce with flecks of carrot, on a sensational potato-carrot gratin, with lightly steamed haricot verts and baby carrots on the side:

1984 Beaulieu Vineyards Georges de Latour Cabernet – What you said.

1999 Behrens and Hitchcock Ode to Picasso – Okay, here's my wine--a wine I received as a generous gift, and which I'd never had before. And I completely agree with your condemnation. Must add another salient point, though, that the majority of people around the table believed it to be only 3-5 years old--it was THAT primary and monolithic. This is what $80 buys you in Napa Valley these days? For that price, and with ten years under it's belt, and with half of it's grape constituency being syrah and merlot, could I be blamed for believing it possible--hoping even--that the earlier wine, your zinfandel, was this? But don't blame me, blame Corky: it was his recent trip report and positive impressions from Behrens and Hitchcock that inspired me to bring this wine. Bad Corky!

1994 St. Hallets Old Block Shiraz – what you said. It wasn't bad wine, just tired.

2004 von Schubert Maximin Grunhauser Abtsberg Auslese – Again, what you said.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Bill Spohn

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Re: WTN: Leflaive, Turley, Monticello, BV, St. Hallet

by Bill Spohn » Mon Apr 13, 2009 12:58 pm

Good notes from memory.

I think you'd probably have hated the Turley if you'd had it on release - all the things for whick we both criticized the B&H, so who knows what might have come to pass if you left the B&H alone fo another 5-10 years.
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Re: WTN: Leflaive, Turley, Monticello, BV, St. Hallet

by David M. Bueker » Mon Apr 13, 2009 1:08 pm

Bill Spohn wrote: who knows what might have come to pass if you left the B&H alone for another 5-10 years.


If it has a fake cork like most B&H wines then nothing good can come from further aging.
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Re: WTN: Leflaive, Turley, Monticello, BV, St. Hallet

by Jenise » Mon Apr 13, 2009 2:10 pm

David M. Bueker wrote:
Bill Spohn wrote: who knows what might have come to pass if you left the B&H alone for another 5-10 years.


If it has a fake cork like most B&H wines then nothing good can come from further aging.


No idea--it was opened by restaurant staff in a back area out of view.
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Re: WTN: Leflaive, Turley, Monticello, BV, St. Hallet

by David M. Bueker » Mon Apr 13, 2009 2:41 pm

I know the one B&H I ever opened ('99 Ode to Picasso) had a fake cork. Most do.
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